El Dangerouso Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 I have never really had any soldering instruction; well, I guess maybe a little in a seventh grade elecronics class in 86 or 87. Anyway, I seem to have no problem soldering to lugs, but have a hell of a time soldering grounds to the cases. All my joints look like crap, and I always seem to have the solder not stick to the case. The thicker the wire, the harder it is for me. Will someone with the skillz to pay the billz please save me from hellish fate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedoctor Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 For soldering to the case of, say, a potentiometer, you need a higher-wattage soldering iron. I use an 80-watt flat chisel-point at about 740 dgrees. A gun-type iron will also work. Then switch back to your little 25 watt pencil for terminals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeR Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 Another little tip I was told (in regards to soldering to cases) is to sand (with course sandpaper) the area of the case that you want the solder to stick to. It wont really do to much to help the soldering itself, but, once you have managed to solder it, the solder will be far less likely to fall off. Worked the trick for me, andway! Do you have one of those 'solder sucker' things? they are great for sucking up exceess solder. Also when soldering, remeber not to apply the solder to the tip of your iron- you want to heat up the wire with your iron, and apply the solder to the hot wire. Doing this you shouldnt have to many dry solders. All the best with it- its frustrating to get the hang of, soldering! Cheers man, Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 Also, a little bit of flux goes a long way on the back of a pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Dangerouso Posted February 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 You guys rock! I really appreciate the help. My soldering iron is switchable, so I'll go for that, at least to see if the higher setting will cut it, along with the sandpaper and flux today. Again, all greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 Just be careful not to overheat the pot with the higher setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Dangerouso Posted February 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 I just checked it. It's only 15/30. I usually use it on 15, which works great for the lugs, but I'll try on 30 for the pots. I probably need to get one with more juice, but I'll give it a shot and see if I can make due. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Dangerouso Posted February 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 Oh, and it should be slobering in the post header. I guess I can't spell either. Just makes me a bigger idiot I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 Oh, and it should be slobering in the post header. I guess I can't spell either. Just makes me a bigger idiot I guess. ← still can't...that would be "slobbering" i use a 35 watt iron for everything,including grounding to pots.it takes tecqnique,but i make it work... i get the iron as hot as it will get,then melt solder to drip onto the pot,close to an edge...then i put the iron in the puddle of solder until the pot gets hot enough for the solder to melt into it(you can see this happen,with experience) then i solder my grounds to that puddle of solder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey69962000 Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 Flux. Thats the problem. Rub a little on the area that you are soldering. Should do the trick. Not too much because it will send smake that smells really bad straight to your face. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedoctor Posted February 11, 2005 Report Share Posted February 11, 2005 WELL then!! Wouldn't it be "technique"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 Dear God, 80 watts and 740 degrees is WAAAY too hot!! Clean the surface with a pencil eraser, then clean it again with rubbing alcohol. Use a small amount of flux to prepare the back of the pot for solder. Use a setting of no more than 30 watts or 550 degrees. Clean and prepare the wire the same way and I guarantee you'll have better results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 i use rosin core solder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 WELL then!! Wouldn't it be "technique"? ← at least it is harder to spell than "slobber" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 Even using flux core solder, a little bit of flux on the back of the pot helps enormously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 Yeah, most of the flux in the rosin core gets burned off on the tip of the iron. It's certainly no good for proper soldering to the back of components such as pots. Having a bit of no-clean flux on the component will help give you a stronger joint every time. I once took a soldering/rework class at technical school back in high school. We were soldering with microscopes and mini heat guns with some of the stuff they taught us. Even if I don't know everything about building guitars, the one thing I'm pretty confident in my expertise is soldering discrete components. You will fry any 1/4 watt potentiometer within 2 seconds if your heat exceeds 600 degrees on the back. 1 second if you're soldering on the lug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 Yeah, most of the flux in the rosin core gets burned off on the tip of the iron. now how does this happen when,during most soldering,you only touch the solder to the part being heated,not the tip. i know in my explanation for how i do pot wiring i hit it to the tip first,and in that case you may be right...but i never have that joint fail...and i know what a proper adhesion looks like. i am not saying "don't use flux" because i have never used it...it may very well help,and i will have to ty it.i use the rosin core myself because,as a welder,at makes sense to me,since mig wire comes flux core so that you don't have to use gas sheilding. in the case of welding,all the flux does is create a pocket of sheilding gas around the weld while it is being made,preventing hydrogen bubbles in the weld from atmospheric air.i was under the impression that soldering flux works on the same principle.are you saying it does not? i was watching plumbers solder copper pipe yesterday with propane torches.they would heat the connection,melt the solder on the joint,and THEN wipe it with paste flux.why is this,if not to protect it while cooling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 i know in my explanation for how i do pot wiring i hit it to the tip first,and in that case you may be right...but i never have that joint fail...and i know what a proper adhesion looks like. And that's why I said most of the flux is getting burned off on the tip. Most people who don't know how to solder properly wind up burning most of the flux off either on the tip or because they get the component too hot. It's just easier to hit the area with a little wipe of flux because it keeps the area nice and clean for good solder flow. Since you've been welding and soldering for so long, you have the touch to get the joint just right to get the proper bond and strength--without extra flux. It takes a lot of practice to be able to do that properly. Flux is just another tool I use to help me get the job done right, and it is most definitely used in most production fabrication and rework situations, especially with SMD components. Flux does serve the same purpose in soldering as welding--to prevent contamination. But it also helps ensure that the area is contaminant-free BEFORE soldering to ensure a proper molecular bond. As far as the plumbers wiping on flux AFTER they finish soldering the pipes, that doesn't make much sense to me. I was taught, albeit not in school, that you use flux before soldering the pipes otherwise the solder won't completely flow into the joint. Seems to me that all the flux is doing at that point is just as you say, protecting the joint during cooling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 12, 2005 Report Share Posted February 12, 2005 As far as the plumbers wiping on flux AFTER they finish soldering the pipes, that doesn't make much sense to me. I was taught, albeit not in school, that you use flux before soldering the pipes otherwise the solder won't completely flow into the joint. Seems to me that all the flux is doing at that point is just as you say, protecting the joint during cooling. well i will admit...just because i see a construction grade plumber doing it that way does not make it right.but they did completely sand and clean the ends and the fittings before putting them together. i guess i could ask the foreman overseeing that crew about it monday...all he ever does is watch me hang steel anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedoctor Posted February 13, 2005 Report Share Posted February 13, 2005 Plumbers have had all the good stuff taken away from them when it comes to soldering copper pipes. First, they took the good acid/zinc fluxes away and then they took lead out of their solder. No, really! Making bricks without straw! Now they have to use a crappy lead-free blend of stuff that flows like crap. Put lots on with just the right heat and wipe it with a rag full of "NoKorrode" paste flux to make a shiny, non-corroding joint. Otherwise, it looks like crud in a month. They have their work cut out for them, anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 20, 2005 Report Share Posted February 20, 2005 well..i just bought a new iron..a 25 watt weller.it reaches over 700 degrees.it works perfectly for guitar electronics...i used the medium sized chisel tip i used rosin core solder,no extra flux...and it was a very easy job,and my solder joints all came out perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted February 21, 2005 Report Share Posted February 21, 2005 Sweet. Weller irons are the shiznit for the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedoctor Posted February 21, 2005 Report Share Posted February 21, 2005 The adjustable and non-adjustable Wellers are excellent irons. I also prefer the medium chisel-point for almost everything. However, when I do shielding or have to remove back-of-pot connections I like a digital Xytronic iron so I can see the temperature drop as I apply the iron to the part. If it drops too far or too fast I raise the output. I know! Fussy, fussy! Just don't want to overheat stuff. Makes for a messy job. I really think any iron is great as long as you know how to solder. Buy an iron and practice till you know what it will do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 21, 2005 Report Share Posted February 21, 2005 best tip i can give anyone is to let the iron reheat between solder joints. i do one at a time and prepare the next joint while the iron is heating again. for those who don't know...an iron of course bleeds off heat on a joint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted February 21, 2005 Report Share Posted February 21, 2005 Is there any difference in performace with a cheaper iron or a more expensive one? Obviously one with digital readouts and multiple settings would be nice, but take the cheapest 25W and the most expensive one you can find, and will there be that much difference? I've always used cheap irons and I've not had much problem, but I'm just wondering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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