Jump to content

Opinions On These Routers?!?!?!


egdeltar

Recommended Posts

I’ve decided after 10+ years of playing its time I actually make one of these monsters! So I’m looking at these routers to first start with:

3 1/4 hp plunge:

http://www.makita.com/Tools_Item_View.asp?id=209

2 1/4 hp fixed w/ plunge base:

http://www.makita.com/Tools_Item_View.asp?id=776

My father is a metal fabricator so I have access to a full shop minus some wood working tools. I allready had a huge 18" band saw donated to my cause!!!. Once I select my router pops is going to build a router table so I can mount this thing like a bottom mount or top mount pin style router.

So if these routers suck, then please, by all means point me to the non sucky variety!

Thanks!!

:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

makita good stuff.

I would avoid getting a monster router the 3.25 is too big and bulky, if it tips you are sol.

a good router to start with would be a free one... see if you can borrow one. its a pricey tool to get into if you use it once. Sears has some good deals on routers.

If you are really going to get into this the 2.25 should be a good one to start with.

Most of the routers today are somewhat the same you buy a good brand like makita dewalt pc or others you should not have a problem. don't get the cheapie stuff on ebay. its junk.

a plunge router is useful, but its best to have a fixed base router.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

makita good stuff.

a plunge router is useful, but its best to have a fixed base router.

Hey D, could you do us a favor and briefly explain why a fixed base would be preferred over a plunge, or even a table? I as well am trying to figure out what is the most appropriate first router. It's been made very clear that at least 2hp but beyond that I'm not sure what the pros/cons are? Ie, it seems a benefit to a table based is you could also use it with a robo-sander but a plunge seems it would be more appropriate for cavity routing.. But to a novice, the obvious may not be so obvious... :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

makita good stuff.

a plunge router is useful, but its best to have a fixed base router.

Hey D, could you do us a favor and briefly explain why a fixed base would be preferred over a plunge, or even a table? I as well am trying to figure out what is the most appropriate first router. It's been made very clear that at least 2hp but beyond that I'm not sure what the pros/cons are? Ie, it seems a benefit to a table based is you could also use it with a robo-sander but a plunge seems it would be more appropriate for cavity routing.. But to a novice, the obvious may not be so obvious... :D

I don't think you want to use a robo-sander in a router. I believe that they are designed to be run at much lower RPMs.

I have not been happy with Sears' routers. I have a Milwaukie and it works fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A good router table with a good fence system is great for things like truss rod slots. A table can also be good for template work(as long as you have a bit with the appropriate bearings). The nice thing with a table is you have excellent support for your work.

It all really depends on what you are comfortable with. I love the looks of the Woodrat fixture that Xlr8 is using in his LP thread in the in progress section. It's a little pricey though.

PS What in the world is Spider Man doing? It looks like some king of a martial arts kata mixed with a hip hop dance or something. :D

Edited by jer7440
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having used routers for the last 25 years I'm going to have to disagree with Derek. A plunge router can do everything a fixed base router can and so much more. The Makita is OK as routers go but the best kit on the market by far is the Bosch;

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...e&s=hi&n=552866

Very closely followed by the new Porter Cable. The bosch has the best run out, is one of the quietest and are the best made range of routers on the market.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

fixed base looks like this:

http://www.epinions.com/Bosch_Fixed_Base_R...Tools?sp=iother

This is good when you want a uniform depth over a certain length. ie neck pocket.

plunge router:

http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Tools-Portabl...outer?sp=iother

good for pickup cavaties.

These can be unsed interchange-able but you can see the problems with using a plunge routers on a neck pocket.

a table router allows you to move the piece not the router some what safer operation.n used for molding and all of that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These can be unsed interchange-able but you can see the problems with using a plunge routers on a neck pocket.

Derek,

Sorry but I can't see what you're getting at, what problems do you envisage by using a plunge router to do a neck pocket?

Neil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

for a first timer, I would recommend a fixed base.

a plunge router is awesome so many ways to use it, but you have to learn to use it.

I know that you can lock up a plunge router and all of that. but for a first timer I think a fixed base would be best.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are going to have a table with a pin router style option then you shouldnt need to use the router outside of the table system. You should be able to do all your cavities and such with the pin router function. As a result, you wont need to hand rout anything. With that in mind I would opt for the 3 1/4 HP model. It will be more stable in the table and that extra power will be nice. As said before however, if you want to use it in the table/pin setup as well as t hand rout (you really shouldnt need to) then a smaller router would be better. I am with XLR8 on the Bosche recomendation. I have the 1617EVS kit with both plunge and fixed bases and it is absolutely the best tool I own. It fixed base stayes mounted in my router table and I use the plunge base for everything else. I am building a dedicated table so I can make a "David Myka" neck carve setup and will be getting a second fixed base for that. Changing bases out of the table everytime you want to use the router is a pain in the ass :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went ahead and purchased the Makita 2 1/4 HP fixed router with the optional plunge base. Ive used routers in the past and am very familiar with all the machinery in my pops metal fab shop so I really don’t foresee any problems. I plan to get into building guitars pretty seriously so I’m sure I will eventually purchase a large industrial pin router. For right now I just wanted something that will get the job done. Thanks for all the replies, hearing everyone’s different ideas really helps me determine what way I would most likely be comfortable doing the job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

PS  What in the world is Spider Man doing?  It looks like some king of a martial arts kata mixed with a hip hop dance or something.  :D

I have no idea.. it just made me laugh.. I believe the term is "prancing"

Im gonna have to say that looks completely like the dance off Napoleon Dynamite.

Edited by egdeltar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so I got my new Makita router a couple days ago. Same day my pops comes over and tells me one of the guys at work said he had a "pin router table" that he would sell to me, so I go and check it out and holy crap this thing rocks!!! The table base is nice and big and its all constructed extremely solid! He sold it to me for $160 AND he gave me a brand new porter cable router!!! SWEET!!

He told me the table was about $1200 brand new. Now I have to put the time and effort in to perfect this craft.

:D

Edited by egdeltar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So do you guys think a 1.5 horsepower router would be too weak?

Depends on the size of bit you're using, the wood you're cutting and the feed rate. If you're looking to buy a new router then one of the combo kits are ideal. ~If you already have a 1.5hp router then you should be ok providing you take it slow and pay attention to how hard the router is working.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So here are some pics of the table that I purchased for $160 w/router. Major SCORE IMO!!!! What do you think? The entire thing is made out of aluminum. The pin and router are controlled by spring loaded arms that are connect to the pedal. When you push the pedal down the router pulls back into the base and the pin arm lifts up. Anyway the guy also has an 8" joiner & a 15" plainer that Im going to get from him soon.

r1.jpg

r2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...