Duff Beer Man Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Well, im working on my fretboard today sanding it, get it up to 2000 griit (where it starts to shine ) and what happens the edge of my binding at the end of the 24th fret (it had a little edge on it that didnt get cut off yet) caught the shorts and ripped it off the end of the fretboard, omg im so frustrated, the edges of these fretboards have given my so much crap. So here is what im think, having binding just along the sides of the fretboards and not at the end, ive never seen it done and it think it could be something original, but im wondering if anyone else has done/seen it done like this before, either that or i have to reglue the binding and start over again....... im thinking leave it off cause it would look kinda cool (least to me) and original.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 I have never seen it done that way, but if it looks good and you like it thats what counts. BTW: Wood or plastic binding? Maybe a quick photo... Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_A_T_T Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 BTW: Wood or plastic binding? It's possible if it was plastic you used the wrong glue. Obviously use Titbond or the like if it's wood, for plastic I learned regular superglue works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Yeah I second the motion for superglue on plastic binding; I used the StewMac binding glue once....once....it swelled the binding and I had to scrape forever to get it flush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Are you guys talking any specific type of CA or just superglue in general? Thanks. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Regular CA glue. I use Zap brand thin, quick setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 And when you're gluing, you're doing just bit by bit along the neck or around the body, right? It's not like you're laying down a line of glue first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 Thanks Setch for the response, and as for wood binding is titebond still best or do you have something else you prefer? J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_A_T_T Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 And when you're gluing, you're doing just bit by bit along the neck or around the body, right? It's not like you're laying down a line of glue first? ← I've observed a luthier doing the whole side of a fingerboard in one shot. Just shoot a bead down the strip of binding and slap on the 'board. I've also done it this way, just work quick. For a body, though, you'd have to do one small are at a time. I bound a body once with plastic binding but I don't remeber exactly how I did it, most likely one bit at a time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted October 8, 2005 Report Share Posted October 8, 2005 I've only bound one fretboard in wood (curly maple), and I used CA for that too - worked a treat Idch - I tape the binding in place (nice and tight, no gaps, pre-bent to any curves), then wick glue in by placing a drop at the joint line. It gets sucked right in. Once you've glued as much as you can, pull off the tape and drop the CA in where the tape prevented you. Scrape flush - et voila! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiewarlock Posted October 9, 2005 Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 I used CA as well, but i would recommend the gel type that sets in 30 seconds, i used regular CA on a preslotted fretboard, and while it worked great, the CA got into the slots and i had to spend a LOT of time with an x acto blade and nail polish remover very carefully to remove the CA from the fret slots but not detach the binding and damage it because nail polish remover attacks binding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duff Beer Man Posted October 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 I was using stewmacs glue...... i know ive heard mixed responses but i bought some and decided to try, well after this project its going in the garbage lol. I ended up taking off the back to both fretboards, i like the look of it i think it looks cool and some what original, i will post pics later, i have to fix an led... I got the whole fretboard sanded with 2000, lit it up and found out an led had died in the process.... now i get to pull it out replace it and do a lot of resanding lol i will get some pics asap. btw it was a pearloid binding and a white plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted October 9, 2005 Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 I use medium thickness CA on all the fretboards I bind. The thin stuff gets EVERYWHERE, including the slots (the medium stuff gets in there a little as well, but it's quicker to clean out). I just prep a bunch of strips of masking tape, apply glue to the edge of the fingerboard (so I can avoid the fret slots) straight from the bottle, affix binding, and tape it in place. Quick, painless, none too stressful. I also mitre all the bits of binding that go on the end of my fingerboard (which is quite often curved, not straight), which means there's nothing really sticking out to catch and rip off the binding. I have to say that the one time it did just 'rip off' was when I glued it down with titebond. I waited a full 24 hours, but it simply popped off. I blame it on the end-grain gluing surface, and the titebond getting sucked up into it or something. The same joint with medium superglue gave me no trouble at all, so I'm sticking with good 'ol CA for end of fingerboard bindings, be they wood or plastic. I'm thinking of trying titebond for body binding (wood) next time, simply because CA is so darn messy (I use water-thin kind and wick it in for body binding). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted October 9, 2005 Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 Yeah, I'm very tempted to try binding on the neck project (not on the neck though, I don't like bound necks)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted October 9, 2005 Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 Yeah, I'm very tempted to try binding on the neck project (not on the neck though, I don't like bound necks)... ← Ya weirdo. Bound necks are the best. Well, bound in wood, anyway. With frets over the binding, not the Gibson-style jobbies. Plus they look nice and elegant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted October 9, 2005 Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 Ya weirdo. Bound necks are the best. Well, bound in wood, anyway. With frets over the binding, not the Gibson-style jobbies. Plus they look nice and elegant. ← I think bound necks are girly...; Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted October 9, 2005 Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 Just wondering has anyone used epoxy for binding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted October 9, 2005 Report Share Posted October 9, 2005 Idch: I repeat: Ya big weirdo! ;-) Seriously though, on a strat-type guitar, neck binding (and headstock binding, on most 6-string pull designs) does not look pretty. On a proper strat, it's downright nasty unless you do the 'invisible binding' trick (saw off the edge of the board, slot, glue back on, leaving you with perfectly clean, slot-less edges). Not a fan for bolt-ons in general. For (carved top) set necks, it's great. For neck throughs, well, depends on the rest of the design. Guitarfrenzy: I've seen one person mention it, and say it wasn't much fun at all. Given that epoxy's a bit of a pain to mix, bit of a pain to clean up, I'd rather 'just' use Superglue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duff Beer Man Posted October 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2005 does anyone actually have or can put together a little tutorial on scraping and how to scrap, i tried it and i dont think im doing it right and i really dont want to screw everything up, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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