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Meu X E-series


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Ok, I originally wasn't going to make a thread in this part of the forum (but I got tired of making threads in other parts for things like "what do ya'll think of THIS part of it? and what do ya'll think of THAT part of it... so I'm consolidating it here). As for the name... i think the greek leter meu followed by a subscript X would be a cool logo... plus in statistics it means "Expected Value" which I thought was a cool subliminal type of message. Either way, here's the pieces I've got done as of now, with drawings of what it SHOULD look like in the next couple steps (complete with shading for the f-hole i designed that everyone in a past thread was wiggin' out on.... but i love it :D)(and it shows how I fixed that BIG router mistake also from an earlier thread).

28-designing.jpg

Close-up of Upper F-hole

Close-up of Lower F-hole

Hollowed Out Body Blank

Please take the time to look at the f-hole close-ups, cause it's a little hard to see which parts are actually holes, and what's not from just the first pic (everything shaded will be cut out).

Chris

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well technically it is the same f-hole, just the bottom one is further back, and instead of a top hole it has a knob (the same size as the hole on the other, cause i used the knob as to trace that hole). But the SHAPE of the hole is the same, from the same template.

Also, I've kinda grown on the whole "non-semetrical" idea ever since I saw the Pagelli "Jazzability"

jazzy_blau_body_k.jpg

That's one of the things I LOVE about this guitar, it's almost "cartoonish" feel, yet how it still implements some classical forms.

But yeah, to each their own, but sorry, the f-holes are one of the things I LOVE about this guitar.

Chris

PS: Maybe I SHOULD take a hint from all you guys, cause almost everyone is critical of my f-holes... however, hopefully when it's dont ya'll will change your minds and see the light, cause I can feel it's going to look SO elegant.

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and what would ya'll think if I moved the bottom f-hole up a bit so that I could fit the knob where the top f-hole has it's big hole, so they ARE the same exactly, except for the fact the bottom on has knobs instead of holes? (maybe make the knobs BOTH black too, so they match the holes cause I'm planning on spraying/brushing the inside of the cavity black, 1) to seal the grain, and 2) to make the holes dark and thus stand-out more)

Chris

Edit: Or just remove the big hole on the top one so they BOTH don't have a circle at the back end? and therefore they'd both be symetric... and I would have just been placing knobs NEAR the bottom one...?

Edited by verhoevenc
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Well, it's an important design decision...how about working up a prototype using scrap or mdf or pine or something. If you have to, take it pretty far, paint it, attach the neck. And live with it for a few days.

It's that or consider the work in progress as a prototype --maybe it'll please you forever, maybe you'll decide that you can do better....

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  • 3 weeks later...

Alright, so I got around to cutting out the f-holes. I took SOME of the advise and enlarged the top f-hole slightly. But osrry, I kept the bottom f-hole (for two reasons, I didn't want to have to make a control cavity cover for the back, I can just use this f-hole to access the wires and put the stuff in, etc. and cause I like it :D ). It's shown here placed on top of the guitar's lacewood back (which I've sprayed the inside black to give the f-holes some nice contrast).

naysayers.JPG

(640x480)

I'll keep ya'll updated as more comes along.

Chris

PS: the image is called naysayers.jpg for a reason, cause how can you say that isn't GORGIOUS!?

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Oh yeah, I forgot, I've settle on my pickups and configuration choices. It's gunna be a P90 in the neck (either a chrome humbucker sized Kent Armstrong, or a SD Phat Cat [so that if I end up not liking the P90 I can put a Humbucker in with no problem]) and for the bridge I'm going with a Fender Wide-Range humbucker (the ones off the 72 reissue and the thinlines where the pole pieces are split... GFS makes a copy called "Vintage Split" if you still don't know what I'm talking about).

5-way super-switch with:

1- Bridge

2- Bridge coil tapped

3- Bridge coil tapped and neck

4- Bridge both coils and neck

5- Neck

Still deciding though if I want 3 and 4 to be that... or both of them be coil tapped bridge and neck, but one series, one parallel...

Chris

Edited by verhoevenc
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  • 2 weeks later...

GGGGAAAAARRRRHHHH!!!!! is it normal that EVERY step you tkae something STUPID happens?!?!?! I wanted the sides of my f-hoeles to be black like the cavity.... so i taped them off from the front with masking tape, and shot from the back. but paint STILL bled through?! I'm gunna be spending FOREVER getting rid of the bleed through!!!

Chris

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finally got all the stuff for the top done! here's it being glued

38--gluingthepieces.jpg

Chris

I'll post pics of it outta the clamps and such when i get back from thanksgiving break and take it out of them (I figure if I can, might as well just leave it clamped for a longer time :D )

PS: The tutorial BOOK is coming along nicely.

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Nice choice going with both holes instead of one. That's not my type of guitar (I'm stuck in the 80's mostly :D ) but I think you are doing an excellent job on it.

As for something going wrong every step of the way - I can relate. I've been working on a project for months now that seems to have that same issue.

Keep those pics coming! :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Work has now begun on the neck. Here's a picture of the truss rod channel I just routed. Yeah, I know there's a mistake, but since it's not at the END of the channel, and it's only in the first pass (ie: it only goes half the depth of the channel) it shouldn't effect the working of the truss-rod, and it'll be covered up by the fingerboard.

45-trusschannel.jpg

Here's a link to the blank that I have for the neck, with the scarf and the added thickness for the heel block, etc.

Glued Neck Blank Pic

More after Christmas

Chris

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I was actually just thinking about doing a normal clear coat over the woods, I wasn't even thinking about dyeing them... mainly cause I've never dyed anything before and didn't wanna f this up lol

But now that you mention it... a yellow to like violin brown (but slightly lighter) might look good... but I'd have NO idea how to do this lol, and I'm not sure how that's look with the lacewood body back...

Chris

Edited by verhoevenc
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  • 2 weeks later...

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