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Posted

P90s are mounted directly to the body and are adjustable. I just wouldn't do it too often. :D

Greg

Posted

Two ways to surface mount:

The Telecaster or P90 way is to use self tap screws straight into the wood, and yes, don't keep adjusting them or they'll come loose.

The other way is brass insert's as used by Hamer and Jackson. You can get these in #4-40 thread (well you can't in England but can in the US) which is the thread for SD's and Dimarzio's.

Jem

Posted

Bushings ????? - why do you think pickup's come with springs ? If you need new screws 3/4" tends to be enough unless you've routed deep down or have a heavy carve on top. Saying this most H/B's tend to come with around 1 1/4" > 1 1/2" screws that you can always cut down.

Jem

Posted

are you talking about humbuckers? if so, i know that one can adjust with springs via the mounting ring. however, i am talking about single coils mounted directly to the body since i will not be using a pickguard (rear route). i don't own a guitar where single coils are mounted without a pickguard so maybe there is something i am missing. are you saying there are adjustment springs for single coils mounted to the body?

Posted

Did anyone else pick up on the fact that the first few posts of this thread had nothing to do with the question?

The man said REAR ROUTED!!!

Like, from the back.

Just use the same screws and springs (or rubber tubing) that you'd use if you were mounting the pickups underneath a pickguard. The only catch is that the top wood is thicker than pickguard material, so you'll need to make sure your strings are close enough to the body that you can get the pickup height correct. If you can't raise the pickup high enough, you'll lose volume.

I made this mistake on my doubleneck strat, and had to shave down the neck heels to get all the heights right.

Posted

I think what he means is (and if he doesn't, I'm the one saying it I guess. :D ) it's a very simple equation-- you have 2 screws, a pickup, and a hole in your wood through which the pickup will pass.

That really only leaves 2 problems:

1. how do you prevent the wood from wearing out with repeated adjusting? A: use the inserts, is one option! I hadn't thought of that one, and I like it!

2. How do you keep the pickup firmly in place. This is the one that I think made me, at least, go :D when you were talking about bushings. Because you can really use anything that's firm yet has some give... surgical tubing, springs, foam... whatever you can get your hands on. B)

Greg

Posted
Did anyone else pick up on the fact that the first few posts of this thread had nothing to do with the question?

The man said REAR ROUTED!!!

Like, from the back.

I too thought he ment this at first but than I rememberd warmoth calls there none pickguard routs "rear routed" so I rigured thats what he was talking about...

read this page. Thers all the info on pickup mounting you'll need there.

Posted
Did anyone else pick up on the fact that the first few posts of this thread had nothing to do with the question?

The man said REAR ROUTED!!!

Like, from the back.

Yes, it was immediately obvious exactly what he was talking about. A very concise post detailing exactly what he wanted to accomplish.

My post was made knowing exactly what he wanted... and my subsequent post also elaborated upon exactly what he wanted.

Not sure if I'm supposed to be vagued PO'd, or just vaguely amused...

Greg

Posted
I just use black wood screws with small springs between the pkp and the wood.

Same here. All my projects have the pickups mounted directly to the body.

Small black screws with a small spring, around the screws to keep the pickup stable and adjustable.

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