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Thick Maple Top


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I have the opportunity to obtain a very,very nice bookmatched maple top. It is about 1/2" thick which I think is much thicker than a standard maple top. Standard meaning what the big manufacturers use.

I'd like to know your opinions on what to do with it -

1. should I do a carved top

2. just glue it onto body material as is

3. re-saw it thinner

4. other

I really don't like or think I can do #3. I'd also appreciate your opinions on binding. Do you like the look of binding? Would you recommend I use it?

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What about making a thinline out of it? You could rout two large sound chambers into the body wood, leaving only the central section there untouched, then you'd close it with the maple either carved or leaving it flat. With a binding it would really look beautiful. :D

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the big guitar makers use tops anywher from 1/4 to 7/8" thick.usually for carved tops.but for example you CAN use a thick maple top to bring some highs to a wood (like basswood)which is not really great for highs.to balance out the tone, more or less.i have a 7/8" piece of crotch mahogany which i am in the process of using to cap an all mahogany beast type guitar.

1/2" is perfect for a carved top like the schecter omen or esp horizon.

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I think a strat "thinline" is even classier! Especially if you rear mount the pots and edge mount the jack socket.

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Thanks for the suggestions. Do people buid the thinline type without the F-hole? I'm not a big fan of the F-hole look.

Do those chambers destroy the sustain or is there some sort of resonance added that re-gains the sustain lost with the removal of the body mass?

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Thanks for the suggestions. Do people buid the thinline type without the F-hole? I'm not a big fan of the F-hole look.

Do those chambers destroy the sustain or is there some sort of resonance added that re-gains the sustain lost with the removal of the body mass?

You could always go for a soundhole of a different kind - like a Rickenbacker slash, or something inkeeping with the shape of the instrument.

Obviously, the soundholes don't really do much in themselves, but the chambers certainly add something - I mean, A Gibson 330 series is all but a Les Paul, but with the hollow wings. They did build one (The 335 Pro Artisan?) with the chambers but without the holes.

Myself, I like the f-holes, and Gibson and Epiphone have Les Pauls with them.. but a DC would be outrageously good looking!

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Thanks for the suggestions. Do people buid the thinline type without the F-hole? I'm not a big fan of the F-hole look.

Do those chambers destroy the sustain or is there some sort of resonance added that re-gains the sustain lost with the removal of the body mass?

Since you don't rout out all the body but only the two side wings of it, the central, unrouted line of wood will keep up all that stiffness you need for good sustain. Also, sound holes may bring lower the resonance of the body, but that's only a shade of effect. Sound chambers already bring resonance lower, which is highly recommended due to the thick and stiff maple, that would sound very bright and pale without resonance-lowering sound chambers.

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