mikhailgtrski Posted March 14, 2006 Report Share Posted March 14, 2006 Nice work on the neck! That headstock isn't very ormsby-ish, though Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokeros Posted March 14, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2006 haha very funny about the ormsby. But who cares, ormsby stuff is cool... I live in Happy Valley jeltoulo. You? I can get access to these machinery through my school hehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokeros Posted March 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 Ok guys....small update...CNC machine is broken....therefore its gonna be hand done. And to change....the body will be based on a tele except with a prs lower horn and iceman sharp arse... Prototype gonna be done in the next couple of days hopefully...pics soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokeros Posted March 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 OK...body design done....I feel 9/10 confident with this and took 1/10th of the time to design rather than the icefly. Its better to create ur own than to copy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 Add some of the carving that you're doing on the lower horn to the upper horn, and you'll be there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoryKer Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 Overall I dig that shape... I think with some minor tweaks it would look fantastic. I think if you brought the waist in a bit it would make the whole design much sleeker. Also, as mickguard said, if you're carving out the lower horn it might be ideal to apply the carved top all over it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokeros Posted April 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 (edited) Okay guys, finally got an act moving!!! Yipee!!! The body is around 40% done now...prototype was done before the final and i'm sooo freakin glad that the I did a prototype to test fit the equipment...lol, I just realised that there was a taper in the neck width and I am so stupid that the neck fits perfect on the butt but gets a big gap where the body meets the heel. The prototype was done on a milling machine which took 6 hrs to do just the top body routs. http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01462.jpg Yes I regretted using the milling machine so instead, I spend all night last night drawing out templates to be laser cut out on 6mm acylic. And boy what a differnce!! So quick when using a router!!! I stuck my flame maple veneer (thanks to brian calvert) on before routing and used pattex to glue the veneer to the alder. And when moist this bady is a beauutttyy!! PHOTOS DO NO JUSTICE TO THE GRAIN IN THIS FLAME!!! TOday I routed the pickup cavities and the TOm bridge recess. Cutted the body on the band saw and on monday I will update with the neck pocket (with taper), control cavity and sanded smooth to 600grit. http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01464.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01465.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01466.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01467.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01468.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01469.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01472.jpg Apologies if there are too many body shots but I am a photography typeaguy and like to fool with my camera. I am aiming to get a finish on the maple similar to my test pieces.... http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01479.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01488.jpg Cheers Edited April 1, 2006 by rokeros Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokeros Posted April 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2006 (edited) YIPEE My Rokeros AT1 is finally complete: I have learnt alot from this build and the biggest part that I have learnt is to be patient... NEways, here are some sneak previews: Initially, I was going to enter it for GOTM, but all on the May GOTM are probrably gonna whoop my ass so I need your opinions on whether this build is worth giving a shot in GOTM. (I am not expecting any wins with this one) Body Close Up: Body Whole: Body close up with slightly lit up bridge: http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01819.jpg Close Up on fibre Obtic bridge lighting: http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a120/rok...cs/DSC01818.jpg P.S. More pictures and better justice pics to come. PLZ COMMENT! ang once again to remind u guys...this is for my GCSE design technology coursework and i am still 15 Edited April 18, 2006 by rokeros Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted April 18, 2006 Report Share Posted April 18, 2006 i entered the fuglycaster one month, i think this is worthy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted April 18, 2006 Report Share Posted April 18, 2006 (edited) Overall it looks very very nice. I like the color with those mineral streaks in the wood making it look blue/green. The top looks a little washed out, not as 3D and popping as it could be. You can minimise this by using a dewaxed schellac coat as the sealer on any wood that has been stained. That way the first coat of finish won't suck up some of the stain into it making it looked washed out like it is. I think it would look more professional if top string ferruls we're lined up with the bridge correctly so the strings came off strait. Also in the first pic it looks like the neck is twisted? I'm sure this must be the camera angle. In the second pic it looks like thers a little gap between the neck and the body on the left side. Also why did you angle the TOM the wrong way? Your supposed to angle it to the left or make it strait but it looks like it's angled to the right. Other than those few nit picks I think this is one sweet guitar. Good job! Party time I'd like to see some pics of the back. I really like the racing stripe on the back of the neck. Edited April 18, 2006 by Godin SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokeros Posted April 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2006 Thanks for your informative comments Godin SD. Firstly, as you have spotted out, the top is not done outstandingly due to it being a veneer and it warped and bubbled vertically against the grain causing the dye seeping in the wrong places. I managed to flatten it out again with a hair dyer and my thumb pressing the high spots. Btw, thanks for the dying tip, I will remember that! Second, the ferrules are meant to slowly fan out slighlty from low E to high E but affected your POV because the high E was missing. The neck is not twisted and yes there is a gap from the neck and body. But with my vernier the gap only measured 0.35mm. I think the shadow must have enhanced the gap size. ( Somehow the router bit was larger than I thought...) And the TOM bridge is straight alright. Just that the shot is not exactly in front making it look slightly slanted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 I know it's stating the obvious, but palm muting will be easier if you trim those T-O-M posts a tad. It's less painful than a tetanus booster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 If it were me, I'd replace the fiberoptics under the bridge with a few blue leds and add some blue leds in the pickup routes as well. I think this will give it more of the glowing effect you're going for. peace russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokeros Posted April 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 I did originally try that, but then you should see the large stack of wires going to the cavity. Even the bridge pickup could not fit in the pickup rout afterwards cos thats where all the wires lead to. And I quickly strung up the guitar to show on pgforum. So I didn't have much time to setup and do final touch polishing. But from then on I have inserted the TOM threads so that it is 1mm below the height of the strings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlrhett Posted April 20, 2006 Report Share Posted April 20, 2006 I dig the string ferrules rather than a stop piece. One word about "fanning" the holes for your next one (and there will be a next one I know! Once you build one you're hooked!) is that the groove cut into most TOM bridges is not very deep. The string will constantly want to be pulling out of the slot. Not a big problem on the lower e string, but on the high e bending will tend to unseat the string. I know from sad experience. Lining the holes up behind their slots in the bridge is pretty necessary. Cutting a deeper groove could work, but then you are talking about filing brass and trying to keep it straight, smooth and without burs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rokeros Posted April 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2006 Yer, I did that when i strung it up for the first time however the angle is not massive but enough to stay on the TOM saddles after lightly opening up the groove with a thin chisel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canuck Brian Posted April 20, 2006 Report Share Posted April 20, 2006 I really dig it! Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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