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Neck-thru-guitar


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hmm... well yes and no, if you don't angle back the neck, you're going to have to cut the neck tendon down a bit so it's flush with the body (ie: your neck blank is going to have to be 1/8 thicker then your body wings) , I ended up angling a little bit, and i'm just going to sink the bridge into the guitar to make up for the rest (it's a very subte angle). With a floyd, you don't want to go sinking the bridge into the guitar to much cause then the spring block will stick out the back. basicly you just have to measure out your scale... the bridge heigt, FB thickness and figure things out for what your using..... baah... i know that's really confusing... i can just draw a pic if you want? lol

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i have two neck thru guitars,a fixed bridge v and an ibanez rg with a floyd and neither has any neck angle whatsoever.i recessed the fixed bridge and the floyd you can recess as much as you like.

just make the fingerboard high enough from the body of the guitar to match the preffered bridge height

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In Melvyn Hiscocks book, doesn't it say you need a neck angle for a Floyd Rose, unless you are planning to recess the trem cavity?

Also, while we are on the topic, kinda, to recess a tune O matic style bridge, do you just route out a cavity the size of the bridge, at whatever the desired depth is?

yes and yes.

but if you don't recess the floyd you are only getting part of the use of it.perfect height in my opinion is the bottom of the plate flush with the body.

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ok here we go, i did the top one with my neck thru i'm making , i think wes is refering to the second one

neckthru-01.jpg

in either case you have to set up some rails for your router to ride on and rout the excess of the neck tennon (the part in the photo with red bars!!) so that it's flush with the body wings. In the case of the second guitar in that image you'll have to figure out some way to leave the part under the fingerboard there.

here's how i managed to angle my neck pack... by using a little peice of wood 1/16 thick on one side and using a quick clamp to make the body and neck thru tennon flush on one side.

neckthruangle01.jpg

neckthruangle02.jpg

any questions? :D

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My first post! Yay! Er.... I think....

I am considering exactly the same question right now. I have decided to try building my own solid body guitar. The bridge is going to be a Floyd original floating trem with a D-Tuna, and a tremsetter, to stabilise it.

I know exactly what you mean about the recess (step or rebate) as the neck enters the guitar and the finger board ends. Could you suggest a thickness for this? On my JS10th it's about 2mm, but I believe the neck may be shimmed on it anyway. To me, a guitar would feel odd if the board was right on the body, it adds a sort of seperation.

My material is Sapele, African mahogany. I ordered it in 6" x 2" planks and had it planed down to true. My body will be formed from 2 of these glued together. I was then planning to route a 6" cavity half-way thru the body down it's centre line. The end of the neck would remain 6" wide and sit in the cavity. This was my great plan to add strength to the join down the body's centre, by overlapping joins, and to solve some accuracy problems, since the bridge, pickups and neck would all be aligned in one piece which would effectively drop into the body.

Not having to start messing about with angling the body end of the neck would be great.

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... I know exactly what you mean about the recess (step or rebate) as the neck enters the guitar and the finger board ends. Could you suggest a thickness for this? On my JS10th it's about 2mm, but I believe the neck may be shimmed on it anyway. To me, a guitar would feel odd if the board was right on the body, it adds a sort of seperation.

.... I was then planning to route a 6" cavity half-way thru the body down it's centre line. The end of the neck would remain 6" wide and sit in the cavity. This was my great plan to add strength to the join down the body's centre, by overlapping joins, and to solve some accuracy problems, since the bridge, pickups and neck would all be aligned in one piece which would effectively drop into the body...

umm... the "step" under the finger board is going to vary depending on how deep you make your neck. most necks are 1"ish deep at the heel and sit in a 5/8" pocket, with a 1/4" fingerboard, that means there's a 1/8 part of the neck sticking out of the pocket under then neck. For a Ibanez RG & JEM style guitar with a 3/4" pocket, there'd be pretty much none, that's why most ibanez guitars have the floyd sunk into the guitar by 1/8 to make up for the deep pocket. unless of course they just made a thicker neck heel. But yes, 2mm sounds about right. if you want to get that kind of seperated feel.

So this "cavity" idea, that's called a deep set neck tennon. Good idea if you came up with it without reading up on it urself. However it may turn out to be a bit harder then you thought, but you do have to start somewhere i suppose.

Also you're not going to be dealing with a 1"thick neck if you make a deep set neck tennon. The routing in the body is going to have to be about 1" deep, plus your 2-3mm (1/8") riser step, plus the thickness of the fingerboard (1/4"). So the heel is going to have to be 1 3/8" thick.

i hope all that mumbo jumbo actually helped :D

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