cpsmaxima Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 (edited) First off... Hello to everyone here at PG, this is my first post. Well, just as others have done... I have been reading the threads here for a very long time. Hoping to learn enough to give me the confidence to attempt building my own personal guitars. I'ld have to say that I have learned SO MUCH from you all... thank you!(I also realize I have a lot more to learn too) Over the last 2-3 years I have purchased some wood pieces that I thought would make cool guitars. So here are my ideas. I am building 3 LP's(using Stew-Mac's plans) and a King V/SG cross that I envisioned about 15 years ago(kind of like Paul Stanley's Appocolypse(funny story about that but that is for another time). OK... GUITAR #1 LP Blue Quilted Maple Carved Top Claro Walnut body and neck(all cut from same slab) No finalized fingerboard yet(I have a few but will wait till further along to make a set choice) Here's the link to my progress on it so far... http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o103/cp...%20Walnut%20LP/ GUITAR #2 LP Tiger Eye Quilted Maple Carved Top African Mahogany core Curly Maple Back and neck No finalized fingerboard yet(I have a few but will wait till further along to make a set choice) Here's the link to my progress on it so far... http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o103/cp...d%20Maple%20LP/ GUITAR #3 LP Flamed Claro Walnut Carved Top Genuine Mahogany Body and neck No finalized fingerboard yet(I have a few but will wait till further along to make a set choice) Here's the link to my progress on it so far... http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o103/cp...0Mahogany%20LP/ GUITAR #4 King V/SG(I call it... The Guillotine!!! Mu ha ha ha(that's for you Metal Matt)) Honduran Mahogany body and neck(possibly a Curly Maple neck) 24 Fret, 25.5 Scale, Fingerboard: Narra backed by Hard Maple One Vol, One Tone and 3 way switch Black Hardware, Locking tuners Here's the link to my progress on it so far... http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o103/cp...ima/Guillotine/ I am just trying to utilize my time an do similar tasks at the same time for all these guitar. Let me know what you guys think... and again... Thanks for all the help! Edited October 22, 2006 by cpsmaxima Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travismoore Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Wow thats quite some list! hope you feeling up to it =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 I was going to say, on one of those LP bodies that the body looked like it was poorly pieced together from a lot of pieces of wood....then I realized it was your floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Looks like some really nice starts. I'm particularly fond of that bookmatched claro walnut top, mainly because it's original how you used a piece where the flame goes parallel to the string path, not perpendicular like you see the flame going on all other guitars. Very cool. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 It's looking good but I do have one concern, I'd build one guitar completely than move onto the next. Don't try to build them all at once, you will make the same mistake 4 times. As you build more and more you will get faster, more precise, and have good jigs/methods worked up. After you build your first guitar you will think it's great. After you build your second guitar you will think your first was crap but you will nail this one. By the time you build your third you should pretty much have all the kinks worked out and come out with a really nice instrement. I would save all your nicest pieces of wood for at least your third guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inisheer Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 Wow! You've been a member for almost two years before your first post! Your projects look nice so far, hopefully they will all turn out as good as you hope. I'm not a big fan of the guillotine shape, but I do give you credit for originality. Keep us up to date with your progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
low end fuzz Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 im with godin on his point about filling your plate; on the other hand, its always cheaper to make more than one a time, but if you make the same mistake 4 times, ya its not cheaper; i would suggest doing all the cutting/gluing at the same time; then go to work on them one at a time (basically) get one all the way to the spray(finishing) stage; then catch up with the next one; and so on; then after theyre all sprayed assemble one at a time; best bet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpsmaxima Posted October 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 (edited) Thanks for the responses everyone... keep em comin'. Travismoore- I'm up to it! I think? Nitefly- Don't ya just love that Home Depot kitchen flooring? Verhoevenc- Thanks. I like that top for those exact same reasons. Godin SA- I know what you mean. I work on them from "worst to best" so to speak. If I feel unsure about something I will do a practice run first. For example... I bought a mahogany neck blank(big enough for 2 necks). Somehow it got damaged(cracked due to some kind of impact) so I decided to make a practice run on the bad neck blank. It was a great learning experience(and a lot of fun too). I feel ready to take on the real ones now. Shredgtrfan- Thanks for your thoughts. I will keep everyone up to date as I build. As soon as a task is completed I post the pics in my photobucket account. right now I am in the process of joining all the neck pieces, tops and backs(as seen in the pics in the links). Low end fuzz- I think it's just easier to work the same part for each of the guitars, one after another. I finish the first one, look it over think if there is anything else that I need or missed. This way it is fresh in my head and easier to remember. Ultimately I will mix a little of my thinking with some of yours and Godin SA's. Again thanks for all the input! Edited October 22, 2006 by cpsmaxima Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpsmaxima Posted October 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 (edited) I know I am a little ahead of myself here, but... I am thinking about binding the LP guitar bodies with some flamed maple bindings(not stained for contrast). Because I've never really liked the plastic binding look. So I have a few questions... 1) How hard is it to bend figured maple bindings around that small horn area(from a noob perspective)? and 2) How do you guys recommend doing this? I'm sure someone has done this before? Pics? I have seen 2 methods so far. The torch(and pipe) or the Bending Iron. I'm leaning towards the Iron as the idea of a torch scares the hell out of me . Is there any other ways? Easier? Oh... keep in mind. I don't have a shop. I do all my work on my condo balcony. Thanks in advance Chris Edited November 8, 2006 by cpsmaxima Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 1) How hard is it to bend figured maple bindings around that small horn area(from a noob perspective)? 2) How do you guys recommend doing this? I'm sure someone has done this before? Pics? Chris 1) In all likeliness, very hard. The thicker wood is, the harder it is to bend. I imagine you'll be getting stewmac's binding or someting simular which is what, .08" thick? On top of this, it will be figured. Figured wood likes to crack at the figuring when you bend it. Now, it definitely can be bent to the dia. of an lp horn, because I've done it before, but you'll have to be very carefull about it. Soak the binding in a bathtub for a while(definitely don't do this if it's the variety of binding that already has purfling attached) or wipe it down with a wet paper towel. You'll probably want to get two thin pieces of sheet metal to put on either side of it as you bend it. This will help prevent it from slitting or cracking. Before putting it in the sheet metal sandwich, wrap it the part you're bending with a bit of tin foil and tape the eges. This will lock the water/steam in so that the wood doesn't dry out as you bend it. Also, make sure whatever you use to bend it is nice and hot, between about 250 and 300 degree F. 2)It can be done equally well with an actual bending iron or a homemade setup if you do it propperly. If you use a pipe and torch/heat gun/heat lamp, just make sure that you're getting the pipe to a suitable temperature and that you're heating it evenly. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travismoore Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 You're balcony is better then what i have i can do some stuff in conservitory but if its dusty work i have to go outside in the nearly english winter lol But hopefully soon i will get the garage waterproofed with a light and get all the bugs and stuff out lol ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpsmaxima Posted October 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 Thanks Thegarehanman... So... 1) Do you keep the heat on that one spot as you bend it? Or do you kind of massage the spot(heating a wider 5"-8" long section) back and forth while bending it? Also, I would imagine that you bend it quite slowly. Is this correct? 2) Do you attempt to bend the curve all at once or do you make the tight curve over a fewer progressively tighter bending sessions? I think I am going to go with the iron. Any idea as to the best place for them? I've seen them on the bay but they looked a little cheesey(not sure how reliable either) and Stu's(looks good) but seems a little pricey... Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 You can focus on just the area where you actually want the bend, just keep an eye on the wood so it doesn't dry out and start burning...hence the tin foil. Yes, bend slowly. If you work too quickly, you'll crack the binding, obviously. The only reason I would have for multiple sessions would be to add water. As for where to get one, I can't help you because I don't own an actual bending iron. Although, plenty of people have made ones that allegidly work from aluminum and/or copper tubing and heat lamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpsmaxima Posted October 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 Do you recommend installing the binding right after you finish bending it or should you wait a while? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 (edited) Just wait until it's fairly dry. Although don't worry about letting it get too dry, you'll be getting it wet with the wood glue, afterall. I don't know if you've heard this already, but consider using masking tape to hold the binding in place as the wood glue dries. It's like a roll of clamps. edit: Oh, and since you're planning on dying those maple tops, you may want to seal your binding channels before gluing the binding in. This is more important if you're using a CA based binding glue than if you're using wood glue. peace, russ Edited October 22, 2006 by thegarehanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpsmaxima Posted October 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 I was planning on using Titebond. It's what I'm gluing everything up with so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NamelessOne Posted October 22, 2006 Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 I'm just wondering if there's any problems with doing the bookmatch with perpendicular grain. What about the center join, which would end up being an end grain joint (weak)? stability? other than that, I like them. especially the walnut ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpsmaxima Posted October 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2006 I am planning on using the graphite rods for added stability. Thanks Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NamelessOne Posted October 24, 2006 Report Share Posted October 24, 2006 in the body? that's a new use... unless you're thinking about the neck, in which case, I was talking about the body (the one with the flamed claro top) the whole time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpsmaxima Posted October 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2006 LOL... It's the newest THING... All the cool builders are doing. Graphite Top reinforcement. LOL Yea, I thought you were talking about the neck. Ha ha ha. I don't know really how it will hold up, now that you mention it... I'm a noob. It should be ok if it's a carve top(1" thick), right? Is there a lot of stress on it, if it's glued to the one piece mahogany body. Shouldn't that give the top enough support(strength)? Thanks Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NamelessOne Posted October 25, 2006 Report Share Posted October 25, 2006 well, there was another poster here recently who had the core grain perpendicular to the strings... his turned out, so it should work. However, it was a one piece core, so there was no end grain glue joint, which is what I'm worried about more. waiting for the input of someone who's actually done this before... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jester Posted October 26, 2006 Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 I don't know really how it will hold up, now that you mention it... I'm a noob. It should be ok if it's a carve top(1" thick), right? Is there a lot of stress on it, if it's glued to the one piece mahogany body. Shouldn't that give the top enough support(strength)? The only problem I can think of is that it will be a bitch to sand. It is after all glued down to the mahogany. Don't worry about it. I can assure you that it will not fall apart when you play the finished guitar. We haven't seen end grain to end grain tops before probably because it is REALLY rare to find wide enough good quality wood for it (not that one needs to find). There will be NO strength issues. My 0.02€ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted October 26, 2006 Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 (edited) Endgrain to endgrain joints are problematic because the endgrain sucks up the glue and starves the joint. It is almost impossible to get a full strength joint endgrain to end grain. One woodworkers technique to improve the glueing process is to pre-soak the joint before assembly. The issue with cross grain is that sound travels at a fraction of the speed cross grain (thus the prefered method of using clear straight grain.), wood is also much weaker cross grain(significantly). This is just a top though and strength will not be a huge issue. As far as sound transmition it would be an ugly way to go on a neck, and not the best idea on the entire body, but it is just a top. Keep in mind people use burl and spalted tops(strength and structure is not so critical). As far as bending the Figured Maple binding. It will be challenging. Get plenty of steam going and try to use the thinnest binding you will be happy with. Maybe a combination of fiber fine line and maple. Peace,Rich Edited October 26, 2006 by fryovanni Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpsmaxima Posted October 26, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2006 Thanks guys for the responses. I guess I will try it out and see what happens. If it doesn't work out so well. I can always remove it and get a different top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cpsmaxima Posted October 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2006 (edited) I have a question regarding the Stu-Mac Carbon Fiber Reinforcement Rods. I just received mine and there is no spesific directions. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Truss_rods/Car...07.html#details My question is... How close should you put the Carbon Fiber Rods in relation to the truss rod in the neck? Is there a general rule of distance? And... Do you run them with the paralell to the Truss Rod or the neck edge(tapering thinner to the head)? I am planing on using the guitar example #3 set up. Thanks Chris Edited October 27, 2006 by cpsmaxima Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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