Matt Posted December 29, 2006 Report Share Posted December 29, 2006 I hear alot of people using aepoxy grain filler and saying how good it is and how it makes the grain pop more as well... Where do I get it ( I live in the UK) Thanks Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted December 29, 2006 Report Share Posted December 29, 2006 Just use any 2 part epoxy that you can find that dries hard. You can mix dies etc to suit your tastes. Also, using a slow setting epoxy will give you much more time to work, so look for those. Slow setting epoxies also tend to dry harder. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted December 29, 2006 Report Share Posted December 29, 2006 (edited) double post : Edited December 29, 2006 by thegarehanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 29, 2006 Report Share Posted December 29, 2006 I think the difference here in the UK compared to the US is that you can't walk into home depot and buy a shedload of epoxy easily. In the UK it tends to be stocked as small tubes for repairs, along with small 3-5g bottles of CA. Not economical! TBH I don't know of a source in the UK off the top of my head. There's not enough call for it in general, so B&Q and Homebase etc. don't seem to stock sizeable enough bottles. What other major applications have we got for epoxy? I would suspect boat builders.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteBuchan Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 Is epoxy not the matrix in fibreglass composites? I was always under the impression that this was the case anyway... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 (edited) That's exactly what I thought also. Just not sure whether it's available economically outside of trade. Woohoo!! Araldite in larger quantities!! http://www.resins-online.com/resin-online-...tegory=araldite http://www.resins-online.com/resin-online-...tail.php?id=102 - 200ml Araldite for just under £20. Still a little pricey. http://www.resins-online.com/resin-online-...etail.php?id=97 - 250gm for just over a tenner. Sound better. Can epoxy be thinned down with a solvent such as alcohol, thinners, acetone etc. to extend it's workability and help it soak into pores better? Edited December 30, 2006 by Prostheta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 Here in the US, we buy it in relatively small quantities at the hardware stores as well. I don't remember off the top of my head, but the tubes tend to be about 3-5 ounces. It really does not take much epoxy at all to grainfill a body. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/...tic/5050080.htm i have used this..run a search in the uk and i bet you can find more sellers...it's the largest quantity i know of and it works well because it sets slow...but you MUST mix the 2 parts equally...i use those little plastic throwaway shot glasses you buy at some stores for the measuring and paper bowls to mix it in...because it will ruin whatever you put it in it and you can't just wash it down your sink...it will clog the pipes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 Pros' Stick with the small tubes - 1 of those dual tube syringes you see in all the shops will grain fill at least half a dozen guitars. I use Devcon 2-ton 30 minute, which is pretty widely available. The 30 mins gives you a decent amount of time to smooth everything out, though I may try even longer cure for next time. The smoother you can get the fill the better, since you want to sand it *very lightly* to knock down high spots without sanding though. I also use the devcon to attach my fretboards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted December 30, 2006 Report Share Posted December 30, 2006 Awesome. I'll have to give that a try on some scrap mahogany to get practice in before epoxying a real instrument to the bench :-D Thanks Russ/Wes/Setch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted January 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 (edited) Thanks alot guys. Although how do u apply it and how thickly? I would presume that a credit card might work, but to me standard epoxy would be really thick? I will have to try something. The reson I asked was that people seemed to say that it made the figuring pop more? I have used Rustins plastic coating before with fairly good results, which is closer to a laquer. Edited January 4, 2007 by Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manquesa Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/...tic/5050080.htm i have used this..run a search in the uk and i bet you can find more sellers...it's the largest quantity i know of and it works well because it sets slow...but you MUST mix the 2 parts equally...i use those little plastic throwaway shot glasses you buy at some stores for the measuring and paper bowls to mix it in...because it will ruin whatever you put it in it and you can't just wash it down your sink...it will clog the pipes Quick question about this stuff. I've seen it or another brand of it at the local Home Depot. I may try it but am wondering if after sealing with this stuff, will you be able to apply a Tru-Oil finish on top of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rahimiiii Posted January 5, 2007 Report Share Posted January 5, 2007 http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/...tic/5050080.htm i have used this..run a search in the uk and i bet you can find more sellers...it's the largest quantity i know of and it works well because it sets slow...but you MUST mix the 2 parts equally...i use those little plastic throwaway shot glasses you buy at some stores for the measuring and paper bowls to mix it in...because it will ruin whatever you put it in it and you can't just wash it down your sink...it will clog the pipes Yea.. thats some things pranksters like doing... pouring a bunch of mixed epoxies into the drain... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted January 5, 2007 Report Share Posted January 5, 2007 Check Frank Ford's (Frets.com) site for some ideas for 'what to do with leftover epoxy'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 Quick question about this stuff. I've seen it or another brand of it at the local Home Depot. I may try it but am wondering if after sealing with this stuff, will you be able to apply a Tru-Oil finish on top of it.it is epoxy...after sealing and leveling you can put pretty much anythig on it as far as i know...just don't sand it finer than around 220 and try it.but why tyou would want to i don't knopw...the epoxy itself is a more durable finish than the tru oil... why don't you get some of that epoxy and try it on some scrap at your house...level it up and polish it like a regular finish(apply it as thick as regular) and see what you think.alot of people do that on tables and sch...that's what it's for. they call it "epoxy glaze coating" for that reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 Not all epoxies can polish up like a lacquer. I've had sand through's which reveal epoxy filler, and they only become appareant when you buff out - the epoxy simply won't gloss, so you have to scuff sand and recoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 i am doing some scrap tests right now...i do have the feeling the epoxy will only be good for a flat finish without a topcoat...but i guess i will see soon. i am considering doing a thick glaze coat of epoxy topped with something else...but not tru oil...tru oil does not last Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manquesa Posted January 7, 2007 Report Share Posted January 7, 2007 Quick question about this stuff. I've seen it or another brand of it at the local Home Depot. I may try it but am wondering if after sealing with this stuff, will you be able to apply a Tru-Oil finish on top of it.it is epoxy...after sealing and leveling you can put pretty much anythig on it as far as i know...just don't sand it finer than around 220 and try it.but why tyou would want to i don't knopw...the epoxy itself is a more durable finish than the tru oil... why don't you get some of that epoxy and try it on some scrap at your house...level it up and polish it like a regular finish(apply it as thick as regular) and see what you think.alot of people do that on tables and sch...that's what it's for. they call it "epoxy glaze coating" for that reason. well I was assuming a fairly thin epoxy coat being it just for grain filling purposes as this thread implies. However with a thicker coat I can't see wanting to put oil on top of that. I'd be interested to see how your test pieces come out. Be sure to post the results here, or at least somewhere on this forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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