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Black Micarta/garolite As Ebony-substitute For Fretboards


P90

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OK, Black Micarta is sometimes used as a substitue for ebony in fretboards. So, let me see if I have this right...

Micarta = paper-based phenolic

Bakelite is also paper-phenolic

Garolite XX is also paper-phenolic

So far, it seems mostly a matter of brand names, but Micarta = Bakelite = GaroliteXX ???

In fact, if you search for Micarta or Bakelite... on McMaster.com.... it'll send you to Garolite! :D

Right, so far?

Googling... the specific gravity of these 3 seems to come up around 1.35-1.4

And the best Ebonies seem to come up (spec gravity) around 1.2-1.4

Also sound about right?

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OK, Black Micarta is sometimes used as a substitue for ebony in fretboards. So, let me see if I have this right...

Micarta = paper-based phenolic

Bakelite is also paper-phenolic

Garolite XX is also paper-phenolic

So far, it seems mostly a matter of brand names, but Micarta = Bakelite = GaroliteXX ???

In fact, if you search for Micarta or Bakelite... on McMaster.com.... it'll send you to Garolite! :D

Right, so far?

Googling... the specific gravity of these 3 seems to come up around 1.35-1.4

And the best Ebonies seem to come up (spec gravity) around 1.2-1.4

Also sound about right?

It is my understanding that Bakelite has far less cellulose in it than Garolite. Bakelite is very prone to shrinkage over time where Garolite is more stable. I have no experience with Micarta.

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Thanks! (Micarta is used on some Martin fretboards)

Digging on Google a little more, the name "Micarta" is definitely owned by Norplex (a manufacturer)

And the "Garolite" name is owned by McMaster? (a retailer)

Hmmm.. who actually manufactures the Garolite? (Norplex? :D )

Edited by P90
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Hey Skip, I recognize you from Talkbass. Nice to see you over here... I hope you'll stick around and offer some of your knowledge. Your instruments are very impressive, and you've got some really innovatiove ideas going.

I think a lot of DIY'ers are interested in composite materials, but are put off by high prices and specialized tools/techniques. I know some of this stuff is probably trade secret, but I was wondering if you would answer some questions about your fingerboards.

Specifically, which variety of garolite do you use for your fingerboards? I haven't been able to find much for information, but I did read about a guy that was using the XX grade for neck laminates. From the McMaster data it looks like the material would be strong enough for fingerboard use, and it's cheap, too. Can it be machined with standard woodworking tools? I'd image the glass-cloth varieties would be murder on router bits and saw blades, but what about the paper-based ones? Also, what about safety? Is a respirator good enough, or do you wear gloves/protective clothing, too? What kind of glue can be used to attach the fretboard? Epoxy? Do you find radiusing the boards to be much more difficult than working with ebony and other hardwoods? As for fretting, is it the same as for wood, or do you have to glue the frets in?

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Hey Skip, I recognize you from Talkbass. Nice to see you over here... I hope you'll stick around and offer some of your knowledge. Your instruments are very impressive, and you've got some really innovatiove ideas going.

I think a lot of DIY'ers are interested in composite materials, but are put off by high prices and specialized tools/techniques. I know some of this stuff is probably trade secret, but I was wondering if you would answer some questions about your fingerboards.

Specifically, which variety of garolite do you use for your fingerboards? I haven't been able to find much for information, but I did read about a guy that was using the XX grade for neck laminates. From the McMaster data it looks like the material would be strong enough for fingerboard use, and it's cheap, too. Can it be machined with standard woodworking tools? I'd image the glass-cloth varieties would be murder on router bits and saw blades, but what about the paper-based ones? Also, what about safety? Is a respirator good enough, or do you wear gloves/protective clothing, too? What kind of glue can be used to attach the fretboard? Epoxy? Do you find radiusing the boards to be much more difficult than working with ebony and other hardwoods? As for fretting, is it the same as for wood, or do you have to glue the frets in?

I use McMaster's Garolite - phenolic by any other name... :D - I am using it for head caps, nuts and fret boards. It gives my basses a unity beyond the body that I like. It finishes jet black, and a radiused board actually shows some of the paper layers giving it a very subtle grain pattern. It polishes beutifully with no finish at all.

It is much like machining ebony so it is a bit rough on blades and such. I use the paper/cellulose based material as that is all the stronger I need it to be.

Definately use a mask/respirator - the dust is nasty - but no fumes to speak of.

I like to catch the ends of frets with a small drop of cyano as I set them just 'cuz, but it isn't a requirement if the slots are done right. And the board itself can be glued down onto the neck with titebond.

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Skip... thanks... your basses are VERY cool!

For a while I've thought about not just an ebony fretboard, but an all-ebony neck for maximum sustain... but that would be expensive, and ebony supposedly is not so stable to humidity changes. Garolite/Micarta changes that.

Wes... goto http://www.mcmaster.com/ and type "garolite" in the left frame and scroll down to garolite XX, then click around.

As best I can tell, its MUCH cheaper than ebony, and yet its about the same density as the best African ebony.

Edited by P90
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very interesting.

i ordered a sheet of it large enough for 4 fretboards at 3/16" thick for $18 roughly...sounds like fun for experimenting.

it comes in a variety of thicknesses and sizes.could be good for inlays and such as well..or just about anything.

knucklehead...it holds up well?i would assume so or you would not use it.

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Wow... Excellent work! Is it just the fb, or the *whole bass* thats made out of the black phenolic?

(that would almost be the equivalent of an all-ebony bass)

I also found this while Googling, for Norplex's version "Micarta"

http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/490659

Reading the text of that, they're clearly going for the guitar (ebony) market:

The material is constructed from a high quality black paper substrate and a black phenolic resin, making it ideal for a variety of architectural and construction applications that require a pure black surface. MC844G can also be used in various functional and decorative parts on musical instruments, such as guitar finger boards and bridges, and develops a patina with age and use. Additionally, MC844G is easy to machine.

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Wow... Excellent work! Is it just the fb, or the *whole bass* thats made out of the black phenolic?

(that would almost be the equivalent of an all-ebony bass)

I also found this while Googling, for Norplex's version "Micarta"

http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/490659

Reading the text of that, they're clearly going for the guitar (ebony) market:

The material is constructed from a high quality black paper substrate and a black phenolic resin, making it ideal for a variety of architectural and construction applications that require a pure black surface. MC844G can also be used in various functional and decorative parts on musical instruments, such as guitar finger boards and bridges, and develops a patina with age and use. Additionally, MC844G is easy to machine.

The head cap, nut and fretboard are Garolite - the body is figured maple with a semitransparent black shellac. This one has to be my favorite to date (keep that to yourself - I don't want angry emails from my customers).

Micarta sounds every bit the same as Garolite given the description. I don't think I'd care for an instrument made of it as it is awfully heavy. I hadn't considered using it as neck stringers but there is a possibility there - I use carbon fiber fabric in my necks so I think phenolic/garolite/micarta would be overkill.

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the phenolic came in today...

look guys...it's very hard...like ebony maybe...but it is WAAAY less stiff.it will add no stability at all as a fretboard that i can see.

i think it would be great for some things...cavity covers,knobs,humbucker rings,etc...but it's just dense plastic.i will not be using it as any substitute for ebony...it's just not the same thing at all.

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the phenolic came in today...

look guys...it's very hard...like ebony maybe...but it is WAAAY less stiff.it will add no stability at all as a fretboard that i can see.

i think it would be great for some things...cavity covers,knobs,humbucker rings,etc...but it's just dense plastic.i will not be using it as any substitute for ebony...it's just not the same thing at all.

That's a bit of a disappointment. I was intending to use this on my next neck (a 5-string bass neck), but now I'm not so sure. I was planning on steel reinforcements for that neck, so the phenolic might still be in the cards. I'll have to give it some thought. I've heard nothing but good things about the Quake basses, so I can't imagine the material is entirely unsuitable.

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it's lighter than ebony...the piece i bought is 3/16"(same thickness i use for fretboards)and yeah it bends very,very easily.

i am not saying it is entirely unsuitable as a fretboard...but it is no ebony substitute....and i would worry because fretboards provide alot of stiffness to a neck.i am sure some of the other types of garolite might be stiffer(this is the XX)but they are more expensive than ebony.

you know that pickgaurd material you can buy from stewmac in sheets ?that's what this stuff is like.

i really think cavity covers or pickgaurds and such may be the best use of this stuff.

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i think ebony is your best bet for an ebony substitute...in other words...not much choice if ebony is what you want.

ever hear of african blackwood?

African blackwood(dalbergia melanoxylon-*Rosewood) is really nice. I just used it on a neck and bridge. It is much more rare and expensive than any of the Ebonies(Gabon/Nigerian, Madagascar, Mac, Asia(green) etc...). One wood that I have found to be very cool for fretboards that is similar in density and stiffness(although color is not black, it is more burgandy to brown) is Katalox. It is a very cool wood in my opinion and is very reasonable in terms of price.

Peace,Rich

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