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Posted

I have done some searching but cant find the exact answer I am looking for. When routing the channel for the Hot Rod truss rod from stew mac, how far does the channel need to go? Can I just make it go from the end of one block to the end of the other block and then drill a hole under the nut area to accomodate the adjustment rod?

Posted

Yes, that'll work.

I installed mine upside-down (rod with adjuster on top) to put the adjustment access where I wanted it. I routed from the end of one block to the end of the other, then used a 1/8" radius (1/4" diameter) core box bit to cut the channel for adjustment access.

Posted
Yes, that'll work.

I installed mine upside-down (rod with adjuster on top) to put the adjustment access where I wanted it. I routed from the end of one block to the end of the other, then used a 1/8" radius (1/4" diameter) core box bit to cut the channel for adjustment access.

And what made you think that that upside down would work? Think about it ? If you adjust the rod, it will bow backwards to what it was designed for?????(I'm not really sold on the hotrod anyways when they suggest using silcone to install it) Not sure I understand your thought process on this one????????

Can you make me understand????????? Maybe I'm missing something here????

Just asking?

MK

Posted
Yes, that'll work.

I installed mine upside-down (rod with adjuster on top) to put the adjustment access where I wanted it. I routed from the end of one block to the end of the other, then used a 1/8" radius (1/4" diameter) core box bit to cut the channel for adjustment access.

And what made you think that that upside down would work? Think about it ? If you adjust the rod, it will bow backwards to what it was designed for?????(I'm not really sold on the hotrod anyways when they suggest using silcone to install it) Not sure I understand your thought process on this one????????

Can you make me understand????????? Maybe I'm missing something here????

Just asking?

MK

Well, I thought, "hmmm, it's not gonna work for me right side up because I don't like where the adjustment access is gonna be. Wonder if I can use it upside-down?" Then I came here and did a search and found that it had worked for several people, so I decided to try it. I figured if it worked for Perry, Mattia and Wez, it'd work for me.

(Here's the thread: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=28524 )

Posted

I did mine right side up, adjustment rod on bottom, because I am using an angled headstock. I used the routher with a 1/2" bit for the access hole on the headstock and made it a little deeper than the channel and drilled a hole thru under the nut area. I was also worried about just using silicone to hold it in place, thats why I was thinking just rout to the end of the blocks. but after routing it with the bit from stew mac for the hot rod there is no movement at all because it is a tight fit. You have to press it in, so its a really tight fit. I am happy with it so far. Tomorrow I can rough cut the neck and headstock out and start shaping.

Posted

So uh...anyone with experience using the Hot Rod truss rods.... question for you guys: would it be wise to drop the extra cash on the 'specially designed' router bit OR should I just go get a run of the mill 7/32 bit?

Posted

Oh, also, amazon.com has Freud 7/32" straight bits for about $12.50. Good to know if you're already ordering something else from them that'll make the order over $25 for free shipping (or if you have Amazon Prime).

[Edit: I saw the post above after I posted this. I've not used Stew-Mac's bit, but the Freud bit worked perfectly.]

Posted

as long as its the same size it doesnt matter.. the bit is just the same size as the end pieces are for the rod.

and the rod works fine upsidedown.. I didn't even notice I was doing it wrong when installing it the first time because the rod is a 2 way...

Posted
Yes, that'll work.

I installed mine upside-down (rod with adjuster on top) to put the adjustment access where I wanted it. I routed from the end of one block to the end of the other, then used a 1/8" radius (1/4" diameter) core box bit to cut the channel for adjustment access.

And what made you think that that upside down would work? Think about it ? If you adjust the rod, it will bow backwards to what it was designed for?????(I'm not really sold on the hotrod anyways when they suggest using silcone to install it) Not sure I understand your thought process on this one????????

Can you make me understand????????? Maybe I'm missing something here????

Just asking?

MK

Well, I thought, "hmmm, it's not gonna work for me right side up because I don't like where the adjustment access is gonna be. Wonder if I can use it upside-down?" Then I came here and did a search and found that it had worked for several people, so I decided to try it. I figured if it worked for Perry, Mattia and Wez, it'd work for me.

(Here's the thread: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=28524 )

That's cool,

Just wanted the understand the thought process and make sure you did as well!!!!!

Thanks,

MK

Posted

Upside works fine, just backwards, so leave a message on the guitar somewhere (inside the truss cover, whatever) for your future self, f'r instance.

As for the HotRod, they're great units, and I've never, ever used silicone when installing mine. Make it all snug, if you want wrap a bit of tape around it to prevent any rattle, and you're done. They're not really different from any other dual action rod in installation or function. I'm tempted to give Allied's rods a try next time around.

Posted
That's cool,

Just wanted the understand the thought process and make sure you did as well!!!!!

Thanks,

MK

No worries. :D

It seems to be working fine. I was worried I'd have to take out too much headstock material if I had the adjuster any lower.

Posted (edited)

the HotRod, are great.

I have used them for a few years with no trouble and I have put them in upside down [ they will work backwards] no big deal. I use 1/4 slot and use the tape to snug the block at both ends.

Edited by prs man

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