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YESSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!! i redrew my gwiter and my parts came in a day before schedule!!!!!!

DSCN0535.jpg

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/temp4/DSCN0533.jpg

this is my new drawing (new out of like 6-7 failed attempts :D )

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/temp4/DSCN0534.jpg

I thought you guys might enjoy this, its my eraser :D

Hopefully i can start slicing and dicing soon, this is probably your last chance to make any comments about the body, so speak now or forever hold your peace!

Edit: oh yeah, i remembered to bring my mahogany from the shop, about 20 yrs old

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/temp4/DSCN0536.jpg

Edited by White Summer
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Do a neck-through!! It's no more difficult than any other type, and as far a sound goes, it doesn't get any better than that. Even with a neck angle, as long as you draw it all out (including a side view, that takes into account your fretboard thickness, bridge hight, etc.) you shouldn't have any problems. You need to do this to find out what your neck angle will be, but once that's done, the rest is easy!

As everyone else has suggested, get a copy of Melvyn Hyscock's book, it tells you everything you need to know. If you have any questions, you'd best ask them here BEFORE winging it... unless you like paying for new wood! Don't get all excited just because you have some parts, you really need to think everything through before you start.

And good luck! I wish I would have started building guitars when I was 13!!

:D Cam

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Do a neck-through!! It's no more difficult than any other type, and as far a sound goes, it doesn't get any better than that. Even with a neck angle, as long as you draw it all out (including a side view, that takes into account your fretboard thickness, bridge hight, etc.) you shouldn't have any problems. You need to do this to find out what your neck angle will be, but once that's done, the rest is easy!

As everyone else has suggested, get a copy of Melvyn Hyscock's book, it tells you everything you need to know. If you have any questions, you'd best ask them here BEFORE winging it... unless you like paying for new wood! Don't get all excited just because you have some parts, you really need to think everything through before you start.

And good luck! I wish I would have started building guitars when I was 13!!

:D Cam

i'd say neck through is even easier, its mostly in the planning, the execution of said plan is very easy

Edited by ElysianGuitars
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OK so today i went to the shop for a couple of hours and cut out my body shape, sanded the edges to about 100 grit, and trimmed and drew my taper on the fingerboard. For my pickgaurd, im going to use a 'mystery wood', and not even 35 years of woodworking can decipher what it is. Its hard as hell, the little 16th of an inch thick slice is REALLY hard. its stiffer than a plastic pick guard twice that thickness. My dad made a little box out of it a few years back, and its beautiful. My next challenge is to design a neck joint, and angle it, and the pickup cavities. Ill let my dad do all the routing, something about 32,000rpms scares the crap out of me.

the body

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/temp4/DSCN0598.jpg

Lets string it up!

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/temp4/DSCN0599.jpg

Mystery wood

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/temp4/DSCN0597.jpg

again

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/temp4/DSCN0595.jpg

again again

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/temp4/DSCN0593.jpg

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OK so today i went to the shop for a couple of hours and cut out my body shape, sanded the edges to about 100 grit, and trimmed and drew my taper on the fingerboard. For my pickgaurd, im going to use a 'mystery wood', and not even 35 years of woodworking can decipher what it is. Its hard as hell, the little 16th of an inch thick slice is REALLY hard. its stiffer than a plastic pick guard twice that thickness. My dad made a little box out of it a few years back, and its beautiful. My next challenge is to design a neck joint, and angle it, and the pickup cavities. Ill let my dad do all the routing, something about 32,000rpms scares the crap out of me.

the body

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/temp4/DSCN0598.jpg

Lets string it up!

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/temp4/DSCN0599.jpg

Mystery wood

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/temp4/DSCN0597.jpg

again

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/temp4/DSCN0595.jpg

again again

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p96/temp4/DSCN0593.jpg

The Mystery wood reminds me of IPE or maybe even Iroko.

Here is a page that has pictures of many different types of wood that you may find helpful. Link

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BTW, for the truss rod, can it just slide in, and be touching the fingerboard? kind of like letting the fingerboard be a cover, or do i need to put something else over it?

i think my tele just has the fingerboard to cover it

What kind of truss rod is it? (traditional single, double acting...etc)

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I did some good old trigometry to figure out the angle of the neck, but i dont know what to do about the headstock. Could i make a strait headstock along with a neck angle, or does the headstock have to be angled too? My dad thinks the headstock is going to be too weak with a scarf joint, and the truss rod hole will only make it worse he says. What do i do?

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I will let others give you a better answer, but I have noticed many people that feel that scarfs joints will actually make the headstock/neck area stronger. I have heard that good glue joints are equal too or even sometimes said to be stronger than wood. I would not worry about the strength of the scarf joint, it will hold up. Again, let others give you a better answer, but from what I've been told you would better off with a scarf joint. The only bad thing about a scarf joint to me is you most likely lose the chance to have a wicked volute.

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Here is a link to Setch's Site He is a member here and a great luthier. That page will show you a neat little trick to doing a scarf joint without having clamping problems. He mentions them looking better and being stronger than one piece necks. Trust me this guys knows what he is talking about. I am sure we have discussesd this topic before about one piece vs. scarf joints and if you try the search feature on this site and put in scarf joint I bet you will find a bunch of very useful information. Good luck! J

Edited by jmrentis
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Ok, i couldnt get all that much done although i had a long weekend. my friend has an epiphone acoustic that got a break in the headstock. He was leaving 2 days after, so i had to repair it and touch it up in 2 days. It actually looked good, from about 20 feet you cant tell the difference. i used some model car paint to get rid of all the scratches from my dad's chisel. There are two things to keep in mind. 1) gorilla glue expands ALOT. 2) never trust my dad with a chisel and dried gorilla glue. When i returned it to the guy, he was totally surprised. Some of the little wood chips got lost, and if i had more time could have filled it, but not bad, considering he was about to use it as firewood (literally).

I took the rest of the week and did a little work on my guitar. My dad routed the sides of the guitar body, and i got the grain down to 150 grit. We made the scarf joint for the headstock, and glued the fingerboard to the neck. My dad has some left over brass from a job he did a few years ago replacing a floor, and that will be my nut. I came up with a headstock design that looks good on paper, but it my be a touch small. Its an asymmetric 3 on 3, and at the slimmest point it is a little less than 2 in. Its kind of like a prs. Oh yeah, i routed and dropped in the truss rod.

My next step is to cut out the neck pocket, taper and shape the neck, and cut out the headstock. I need to get those things done by next Wednesday, it will be in an art show even though it is unfinished.

I'm looking around for a neck joining tut, so if you see one that is exceptionally exceptional, don't be afraid to post.

pix soon

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I've never used Gorilla glue, but I've seen joints with it, and I wouldn't use it on guitars.... :D

yeah thats what i thought too, but the guitar still sounds exactly the same. My dad wants to use that for our scarf joint, but i think regular wood glue will be plenty strong enough. But he's got 35+ years of wood working under his belt, so its tough to argue.

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I've never heard of any woodworker using Gorilla glue for woodwork. Usually HHG, Titebond, and a couple other carpenter glues. I really wouldn't recommend the stuff, it foams up a great deal and chances are you'll have a glue line showing.

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yeah thats my only gripe. My dad thinks we can clamp it down tight to get rid of the line.... We'll just see how it turns out i guess, what ever type of glue we use. :D

i know john reuter was messing around with it when gluing up his multi laminate neck through neck blanks for some jerry garcia guitars when i was at roberto-venn... the finished project was great.

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