String-thru Ferrule Substitute

[12056]

Im making a guitar with a string thru body, and when i drilled the string-thru holes they didnt turn out perfectly straight. What i have now will still work, in fact it looks kind of cool. Anyway, the holes on the back of the guitar are a little bunched togeteher, so i would have to sand down the rims of the ferrules so theyll fit next to each other.

So is there something else i could use, or leave it empty? Thanks.

[fookgub]

Im making a guitar with a string thru body, and when i drilled the string-thru holes they didnt turn out perfectly straight. What i have now will still work, in fact it looks kind of cool. Anyway, the holes on the back of the guitar are a little bunched togeteher, so i would have to sand down the rims of the ferrules so theyll fit next to each other.

So is there something else i could use, or leave it empty? Thanks.

I wouldn't leave it empty. The ball ends may dig into the wood and dent it. Maybe somthing like this/this or this? Or you could use these (no. 0196).

Edited July 30, 2007 by fookgub

[ihocky2]

I would suggest the ferrules without the rim that Stewmac sells. I would also do a general search of the web for metal ferrules. They don't have to be specific to guitar. Just big enough for the ball end to fit into and have a hole large enough for your largest string to fit through without pulling the ball end through.

[Acousticraft]

Do you string spacings match the bridge holes? I used a 1/8"x 3/4" brass plate that routed out for and inset with epoxy in the back of the guitar. Then I drilled the holes thru once the epoxy had set using the bridge as a guide to find the hole centres.

[Quarter]

I did one of those recessed bar retainers out of a piece of 3/8 x 1/2 aluminum bar stock for a lap steel I'm working on , works great.

[WezV]

i have made them out of ebony before. that worked well but i wouldnt suggest leaving the holes on your body empty - not after i spent so long the other week digging about 3 string ball ends out of the back of somebodys telecaster that had lost its ferrules. That was 3 ball ends in one hole by the way, after he realised the first was stuck and the string broke he just shoved another in

[erikbojerik]

You can use the ball-ends of used strings, especially bass strings.

[fookgub]

That was 3 ball ends in one hole by the way, after he realised the first was stuck and the string broke he just shoved another in

I'm going to push for the recessed bar solution again. It looks clean, and it's easier to install (IMHO) than ferrules.

[mattharris75]

That was 3 ball ends in one hole by the way, after he realised the first was stuck and the string broke he just shoved another in

I'm going to push for the recessed bar solution again. It looks clean, and it's easier to install (IMHO) than ferrules.

Did you have the recessed bar made (or make it yourself), or did you purchase it somewhere? And if so, where?

[fookgub]

Did you have the recessed bar made (or make it yourself), or did you purchase it somewhere? And if so, where?

I made them. The brass one is a big, inch-thick block. That took a little more effort and some mill time. The other one is just a plate made from 1/8" x 1/2" spring steel. You can easily buy that stuff at virtually any hardware store. It took about 5 minutes to shape it on my belt sander.

[Acousticraft]

I would use brass as it want rust and gives good sustain. You should be able to get some brass flat bar from a Hardware or Engineering supplies store and cut it to required length.

Edited July 11, 2007 by Acousticraft

[fookgub]

I would use brass as it want rust and gives good sustain. You should be able to get some brass flat bar from a Hardware or Engineering supplies store and cut it to required length.

True, you have to paint the steel. Brass will shine up real nice just by sanding through successively higher grits, then polishing. A little Nevr-Dull every once in a while will keep it looking great forever. Or you can let it tarnish naturally, and it still looks good. Brass is cool like that.

One caution about brass, though, is that it will grab drill bits when enlarging holes. That's not a problem with a small plate like this (where you shouldn't need to enlarge holes anyway), but I ran into it when I was working on the big block pictured in my first post. A machinist at work had cautioned me about it, but it's still a very nasty surprise when a bit grabs and all the sudden your piece and your vice are spinning around at 400 rpm on the end of a tiny drill bit.

Just FYI... I've mentioned this before, but I think it's worth repeating.

Edited July 11, 2007 by fookgub