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Wormy Tele Style


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I started my latest project a few weeks back and here is my current progress. I bought the neck for this one a while back, but I think this will be the last neck I buy since I am going to start making my own. So far I have the neck stripped down and the body is glued up and rough cut.

Specs.

Body- Ash semi-hollow with ambrosia maple top telecaster styled

Neck-22 Fret 25.5" scale maple, Tru-Oil finish

Maple Fretboard

Tele pickups from Guitar Fetish, don't remember which ones right now.

3-way blade switch with 1 tone, and 1 volume

Final color will be stained red with gold hardware and probably 2-part poly finish

DSC02142.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b192/ihocky2/DSC02141.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b192/ihocky2/DSC02139.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b192/ihocky2/DSC02137.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b192/ihocky2/DSC02133.jpg

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I am envisioning the pointy head working with it, at least I hope it does. The lower horn is going to be thinner and more pointed than a normal Tele, closer to an RG but a little thicker. And the back end of the body is more rounded and slightly more sculpted than a Tele, so I am hoping those change will reflect well on a pointy head. I think Charvel did a Tele with their pointy head that looked decent enough.

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It is from a Dean Signature Z Series. I got it dirt cheap because it originally was painted white with the head stock neon pink. Very 80's looking. I wanted the full maple look so I stripped it with a heat stripper which messed up the binding. But that is okay since I was planning on removing the ivory binding and replacing it with either a red pearloid or black binding and then replacing the dots with red pearloid dots.

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Update: Cut the neck pocket tonight. Here are a few pictures with the neck mocked up in place. I also found the pictures of the neck in the original condition.

DSC02181.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b192/ihocky2/DSC02175.jpg

Original Neck

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b192/ihocky2/DSC02087.jpg

Pile O' removed frets

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b192/ihocky2/DSC02090.jpg

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That’s cool. I actually glued up a blank a while ago for my own Ambrosia topped Tele. It’s got a Black Walnut back. I’m sure some day I’ll get around to building it.

100_2044.jpg

I'm at a loss for what I would do for a finish? I'm thinking sunburst. What's your idea? I know you're going red but will it be a burst?

Edited by zyonsdream
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I think I am going solid red, but have to wait and see what the wood really wants to do. I really want a red guitar wit hgold hardware, but this one keeps telling me to go with a light amber. I have to wait and see what the grain reveals after all of the sanding is done. It looks like the maple actually has flames in it as well, but I am not sure if it is just fine chatter from the planner. It feels smooth, but I want to sand it and be sure first. Either way I am definitely laying down an amber stain first to highlight and figuring that I may reveal. Then I'll make final decisions from their. I doubt I'll go with any kind of burst, but I am trying to decide what to do about the sides and the back. Since the ash is a little darker off the bat I need to see how the colors look after addind stain on some scrap pieces.

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You never see people using Ambrosia maple. It’s always spalt, flame or quilt.

Mine is actually ambrosia beech but it’s basically the same. When I do mine I’ll cut it down the center and make it a neck through. I think I haven’t done anything with mine just because I don’t know what I want to go with for color. I’m real interested to see how yours will turn out. Keep us posted!

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  • 2 months later...

Well, time for a long over due update. Over the past two months I save sanded the body fully to shape, cut my sound hole, added that control cavity and control holes, routed the binding ledge, final sanded and pretty much anything you need to do before finishing it. Last night I dyed it red. Tonight I will be attaching the binding and painting the pickup cavities. I hope to spray conversion varnish over the weekend. I will get more pictures tonight of the dyed product. I am really happy with the way this is turning out. The only big problem I have run into is that the blade swtich slot got a little chewed up and ugly, but it is usable.

DSC03150.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b192/ihocky2/DSC03157.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b192/ihocky2/DSC03151.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b192/ihocky2/DSC03163.jpg

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the actual worm holes are very small and dont really do much structural damage - and afterall, its a decorative feature that caps off the top of the guitar!!

I have just got some black limba that has a few worm holes

wezlimba.jpg

its the worms that created that bright orange strip!!!

Structurally the wood is more than good enough to make a guitar body from

The point in using it is because its visually interesting, and if it doesnt harm the tone then whats the problem

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I dyed the enitre body red last night. I have a wooden binding that I will glue on tonight. Then I am just going to spray it with Sherwin William conversion varnish. Hopefully I can do that this weekend. It is one of the last weekends that I have enough time to shoot all day long, but the high is only getting into the low 60's and I know that I need it to be at least 70. I have a spare room in the house that I can throw heaters in for a few days for it to finish curing but at least for the first 12 hours and during spraying I need somewhere warm to keep it. I might see how warm I can get my garage and only take it outside for a few minutes to spray the next coat and then take right back in to the warmth.

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I have absolutely no idea what you would be talking about. :D I didn't want to go with a standard f-hole and really like the way the longhorn looked. So I borrowed a chapter from your book, and changed it a little to suit my personal tastes a little. I have to say that the little toe holes were a pain in the but. A dremel tool would have tried to chew away too much too qucikly so I had to just cut and carve by hand on those. Where is the laser table when I really need one?

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I used some small drill bits to remove the bulk of the material, and then several types of Exacto blades to chisel away at the remaining and then sanded the rest with bits of popsicle sticks. Actually went a lot easier than you would expect, but like always sanding the end grain is a pain.

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I have dyed the body red and glued on the binding. I used a wooden binding from Woodcraft. The binding did get perfect, but it did get very well for my first try. I did learn a few things from it and know what not to do in the future with it. These pictures are after dying and gluing on the binding but before I got to clean up any glue or the binding edges. I have since cleaned everything up and sprayed two sealer coats of lacquer and am ready to start building up coats. I decided to go with nitro laquer because I have extremely limited temperatures for the conversion varnish to cure so I doubt I would be able to get it sprayed. But the lacquer is less touchy with the temperatures. I know I don't want to allow it to be too cold, but I am slightly too cold for a chemical cure right now, but the lacquer is curing nicely.

DSC03436.jpg

Close Up of grain

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b192/iho...er/DSC03437.jpg

Binding Close up

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b192/iho...er/DSC03443.jpg

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