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Where To Find A Pre-slotted Fretboard?

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Jon, do you think it will still fit?

also how do you cut for the nut since I will be cutting the 1st fret off?

Measurements on the truss rods are precisely 17 15/16". The 18" truss rod may be pushing it. I say it's better safe than sorry, stick with the 14 1/2" truss rod.



The nut can be cut however you'd want it to be. If you want it to be a fender style nut where the nut rests on the top of the fingerboard, make sure to leave a great deal of space behind the first fret of the 25.5" scale to file away the nut slot . Then use a file the size of your nut to slot the first fret area (which will now alter the scale from 25.5" to 24.07") 1/8" is standard nut width. If you're sticking with a nut behind the fingerboard, just slice off the fingerboard right at the first fret. Use a couple dots of CA glue to hold the nut in place when you get your fingerboard glued to the neck!

How do I do it? I scarf joint the neck angle and leave an extra 3/16" of flat surface behind the fingerboard for my nut to go behind the fingerboard.

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if you really want to get closer to a 24 scale, a ebay seller sells 25.4 scale length fretboards. with the first fret cut off, it would get you closer

The scale would be a hair under 24", the difference is extremely minimal from a 24.07" scale. There really isn't any point in going this route since StewMac offers radiused and slotted fingerboards for the luthiers convenience.

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I still have not found a carbon fiber bar? Would it be a problem to build the neck without the CF bar? Can someone tell me how to route out for the truss rod? Should I use just a regular straight router big? I don't really want to buy a $25 bit that I will not use that often. So I was hoping to be able to use a straight bit that I already have. Does anyone have any pictures or drawings of how I should install the shorter 14.25" truss rod?

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There are actually quite a few places to purchases carbon fiber bars, but it will be through web. Here are a few links for you to start looking.

Los Alamos CF-That one Mattia just posted on another thread, best prices I've seen.

StewMac CF

Graphite reinforcement rods from LMI

There is also another place that Russ uses that I forgot to bookmark. As for the truss rod, your going to have to buy a straight bit that matches the size of your truss rod, there really is no way around that. For the hot rod I actually found a bit from Whiteside that was the same size and I believe quite a bit cheaper. I know there are many people here that use I believe a 1/4" straight bit to route for the Hot rods. The rods are 7/32" wide. I will probably go with a 1/4" if I ever use a hotrod again because my 7/32" bit made the channel too small. This actually pleased me because it verified to me my router purchase was fine off craigslist. But I had to go back and very gently tap the straight edge guide to widen the slot a fraction and even still it is tight. I might have to widen it a tad more.

Here is another site you can look at routerbits.com straight bits. That page shows the prices of some of their straight bits. If you used a hot rod you could buy a double flute 1/4"width cut, 1" cutting length for just over $11. Considering how important the truss rod and channel is, its very much worth buying a bit like this and if you router didn't come with a straight edge, buy one and make sure you neck blank is square. Also, practice on scrap a few times and see how the truss rod fits, then start on the neck. Also, take small passes, don't try to do it in one pass, take a few small passes. Well, I hope that helps a little. Others might have some better info for you, but that should be a start. J

Note: I know CF can be cut and people here have done it, I don't know the best method to this, but I'd imagine that Los Alamos and maybe even LMI might even cut them shorter for you if you ask. When you contact them I would definitely ask if they can chop the rods at maybe 16 or 17 inches. I know your truss rod would be shorter, might it should be fine to have the cf longer and might even be a better idea to add support above/below the truss rod. So, again when you call to get some, just ask them to hack off an inch or two for you. Just a thought as most CF rods are 18"

Edited by jmrentis
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I have a 1/4" straight router bit. That was what I was planning on using. I have never routed for a truss rod before. Do I just route the length of the truss rod with the 1/4" bit and that is it? or is there a special way to route the end of the channel so the truss rod is fixed into place? also, where would I route for the CF strips? beside the truss rod in it's own channel? or do I extend the channel of the truss rod and put the carbon fiber at the bottom of the channel? Basically I am confused with the CF rods. I don't know where to put them, how much of it I would need. Would my neck warp and not work properly if I did not use the CF?

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With the double action TRs, just rout the channel, no need to attach it at either end. CF bars should go in their own channel alongside the TR. I don't think you would need two, one should do it.

I wasn't planning on attaching the truss rod to anything. I was planning on routing a straight route, and stopping before the nut, then drilling from the headstock. OR should I just route all the way through where the nut will be? What size strip of CF should I use? 1/4" x 3/16" x 18"?

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