killemall8 Posted August 4, 2007 Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 if you really want to get closer to a 24 scale, a ebay seller sells 25.4 scale length fretboards. with the first fret cut off, it would get you closer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted August 4, 2007 Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 Jon, do you think it will still fit? also how do you cut for the nut since I will be cutting the 1st fret off? Measurements on the truss rods are precisely 17 15/16". The 18" truss rod may be pushing it. I say it's better safe than sorry, stick with the 14 1/2" truss rod. http://host123.ipowerweb.com/~jonsbass/gal...ic/IMAG0123.JPG http://host123.ipowerweb.com/~jonsbass/gal...ic/IMAG0126.JPG The nut can be cut however you'd want it to be. If you want it to be a fender style nut where the nut rests on the top of the fingerboard, make sure to leave a great deal of space behind the first fret of the 25.5" scale to file away the nut slot . Then use a file the size of your nut to slot the first fret area (which will now alter the scale from 25.5" to 24.07") 1/8" is standard nut width. If you're sticking with a nut behind the fingerboard, just slice off the fingerboard right at the first fret. Use a couple dots of CA glue to hold the nut in place when you get your fingerboard glued to the neck! How do I do it? I scarf joint the neck angle and leave an extra 3/16" of flat surface behind the fingerboard for my nut to go behind the fingerboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted August 4, 2007 Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 if you really want to get closer to a 24 scale, a ebay seller sells 25.4 scale length fretboards. with the first fret cut off, it would get you closer The scale would be a hair under 24", the difference is extremely minimal from a 24.07" scale. There really isn't any point in going this route since StewMac offers radiused and slotted fingerboards for the luthiers convenience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawnofzion Posted August 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 ok sounds good. I will just plan on using the 14.25" truss rod. Will the 14.25" truss rod not give me as much adjustability? Should I make is adjustable from the headstock or the bottom of the neck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubab0y Posted August 4, 2007 Report Share Posted August 4, 2007 If you're doing a bolt-on, I would say the headstock end. and you could stick a CF bar along the rest of the length without the truss rod for some extra strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawnofzion Posted August 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2007 where do you get a CF bar at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawnofzion Posted August 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 I still have not found a carbon fiber bar? Would it be a problem to build the neck without the CF bar? Can someone tell me how to route out for the truss rod? Should I use just a regular straight router big? I don't really want to buy a $25 bit that I will not use that often. So I was hoping to be able to use a straight bit that I already have. Does anyone have any pictures or drawings of how I should install the shorter 14.25" truss rod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 (edited) There are actually quite a few places to purchases carbon fiber bars, but it will be through web. Here are a few links for you to start looking. Los Alamos CF-That one Mattia just posted on another thread, best prices I've seen. StewMac CF Graphite reinforcement rods from LMI There is also another place that Russ uses that I forgot to bookmark. As for the truss rod, your going to have to buy a straight bit that matches the size of your truss rod, there really is no way around that. For the hot rod I actually found a bit from Whiteside that was the same size and I believe quite a bit cheaper. I know there are many people here that use I believe a 1/4" straight bit to route for the Hot rods. The rods are 7/32" wide. I will probably go with a 1/4" if I ever use a hotrod again because my 7/32" bit made the channel too small. This actually pleased me because it verified to me my router purchase was fine off craigslist. But I had to go back and very gently tap the straight edge guide to widen the slot a fraction and even still it is tight. I might have to widen it a tad more. Here is another site you can look at routerbits.com straight bits. That page shows the prices of some of their straight bits. If you used a hot rod you could buy a double flute 1/4"width cut, 1" cutting length for just over $11. Considering how important the truss rod and channel is, its very much worth buying a bit like this and if you router didn't come with a straight edge, buy one and make sure you neck blank is square. Also, practice on scrap a few times and see how the truss rod fits, then start on the neck. Also, take small passes, don't try to do it in one pass, take a few small passes. Well, I hope that helps a little. Others might have some better info for you, but that should be a start. J Note: I know CF can be cut and people here have done it, I don't know the best method to this, but I'd imagine that Los Alamos and maybe even LMI might even cut them shorter for you if you ask. When you contact them I would definitely ask if they can chop the rods at maybe 16 or 17 inches. I know your truss rod would be shorter, might it should be fine to have the cf longer and might even be a better idea to add support above/below the truss rod. So, again when you call to get some, just ask them to hack off an inch or two for you. Just a thought as most CF rods are 18" Edited August 7, 2007 by jmrentis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawnofzion Posted August 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 I have a 1/4" straight router bit. That was what I was planning on using. I have never routed for a truss rod before. Do I just route the length of the truss rod with the 1/4" bit and that is it? or is there a special way to route the end of the channel so the truss rod is fixed into place? also, where would I route for the CF strips? beside the truss rod in it's own channel? or do I extend the channel of the truss rod and put the carbon fiber at the bottom of the channel? Basically I am confused with the CF rods. I don't know where to put them, how much of it I would need. Would my neck warp and not work properly if I did not use the CF? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawnofzion Posted August 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 ok I'm about to order the supplies to build my neck from stew mac. I am still undecided about the carbon fiber. Any suggestions on if it is needed or if I will be fine without the carbon fiber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 90% chance you'll be fine without it. But I use it in all my necks anyway, because it provides even, predictable stiffness and a small extra measure of stability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawnofzion Posted August 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 Ok i have planning out my route for the truss rod and this is what I have come up with. Does this look correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 Uh, no. Looks short. The regular 18" truss rod should fit under a 24" scale fingerboard, I would think. It could work, but at that point I'd definitely be adding CF along the entire length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawnofzion Posted August 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 If you read back a bit in this thread it was decided that the 18" truss rod would not fit into my neck because I am only doing 22 frets. Should I run 2 CF strips on each side of the truss rod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubab0y Posted August 7, 2007 Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 With the double action TRs, just rout the channel, no need to attach it at either end. CF bars should go in their own channel alongside the TR. I don't think you would need two, one should do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawnofzion Posted August 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2007 With the double action TRs, just rout the channel, no need to attach it at either end. CF bars should go in their own channel alongside the TR. I don't think you would need two, one should do it. I wasn't planning on attaching the truss rod to anything. I was planning on routing a straight route, and stopping before the nut, then drilling from the headstock. OR should I just route all the way through where the nut will be? What size strip of CF should I use? 1/4" x 3/16" x 18"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted August 8, 2007 Report Share Posted August 8, 2007 Seriously, use two CF rods. Symmetry and all that. Single CF is only OK if you're doing a no-truss-rod neck, IMO. 1/8" x 3/8" oriented vertically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dawnofzion Posted August 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2007 I have decided to not use CF rods. I think the neck will be fine without it. I also have recieved confirmation that this will be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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