avengers63 Posted May 30, 2008 Report Posted May 30, 2008 +1 to interest in a fixed bridge, but not until either VERY late this year or sometime next year. Other woodworking commitmits have to come first, as well as at least two other builds. Quote
TemjinStrife Posted June 1, 2008 Report Posted June 1, 2008 I'm definitely interested in a floyd-style headless replacement bridge. Quote
Strandberg Guitarworks Posted June 16, 2008 Author Report Posted June 16, 2008 Hey! those of you who are interested in a bridge, make your finish preferences known. I am not planning on using the "tufram" (teflon impregnated hard anodization) coating since it will not match any other gear on the market currently. Once I develop a more complete offering, with string fasteners for the neck, I might use it again. Easiest for me would be matte or semi-glossy black anodization, or natural aluminium colored anodization, because I now have the connections with a company that can do it. It is also possible to get it chromed or gold plated, although I would have to find a supplier first. I am planning to do a fixed bridge version and a "single" version, i.e. mounting plates for mounting individual tuners stand-alone, in the first run. Implementing the lessons learned from the FR replacement will require a little more thinking and prototyping on my end. Please let me know what you would like and I will try to accommodate it ASAP. Don't know the cost just yet, but expect highish (as high as $350) with a damned good warranty policy. Cheers, Ola Quote
Mattia Posted June 16, 2008 Report Posted June 16, 2008 Adonized black or adonized aluminum would be my own personal preferences; my headless designs tend not to be things that play well with chrome or gold. Single units would be most appreciated, as I'm experimenting/branching out into fanned fret headless stuff these days. As for pricing, if it's equivalent to ETS pricing I'd most certainly be interested. Quote
GregP Posted June 16, 2008 Report Posted June 16, 2008 I have to admit, although $350 is perfectly fair (generous, even) for a custom piece, I don't see being able to buy one in the immediate future. Too many other bills coming up to justify it to my fiancee. If I were to get one, though, I'd be more into black also. Quote
WezV Posted June 17, 2008 Report Posted June 17, 2008 Single units would be most appreciated, as I'm experimenting/branching out into fanned fret headless stuff these days. As for pricing, if it's equivalent to ETS pricing I'd most certainly be interested. +1 got me thinking about a 8 string, fanned fret headless guitar Quote
OM Guitars Posted June 17, 2008 Report Posted June 17, 2008 (edited) Easiest for me would be matte or semi-glossy black anodization, or natural aluminium colored anodization, because I now have the connections with a company that can do it. It is also possible to get it chromed or gold plated, although I would have to find a supplier first. Matte black would be preferable, though I could do semi-gloss black as well. Assuming a great warranty, I could do $350; my only concern is durability, since aluminum is a relatively soft metal. (Not to complicate this more, but have you thought about brass? Brass also has a nice tone.) I'm interested in a fixed-bridge version. Edited June 17, 2008 by OM Guitars Quote
Mattia Posted June 18, 2008 Report Posted June 18, 2008 Wood's softer than metal, and it lasts fine, and there are tons of alum bridges out there that have zero problems with wear and tear. Quote
OM Guitars Posted June 19, 2008 Report Posted June 19, 2008 Wood's softer than metal, and it lasts fine, and there are tons of alum bridges out there that have zero problems with wear and tear. Aluminum it is, then. I suppose I shouldn't be really worried about wear and tear, since I'm getting a fixed bridge. Quote
Strandberg Guitarworks Posted July 15, 2008 Author Report Posted July 15, 2008 I'm finally on a well deserved holiday, which I am spending partly getting the guitar going again. I have done some work on a new mould. Progress pictures on my site. http://guitarworks.thestrandbergs.com/ Will get 100 tuners done in the September timeframe. Quote
Strandberg Guitarworks Posted July 22, 2008 Author Report Posted July 22, 2008 (edited) Here are a couple of pictures of the neck. I had (I personally think it's a brilliant idea!) the idea to learn small on just making a neck which led to making it "standard" Strat dimensions, which means that you will be able to buy both a neck and a bridge from me to create a truly ergonomic instrument from your favorite! The routing jig, made from an ironing board: The finished positive neck mould: Plenty more pictures on the site as always. Cheers, Ola Edited July 22, 2008 by Strandberg Guitarworks Quote
pukko Posted July 22, 2008 Report Posted July 22, 2008 Very impressive stuff! How do you fit the frets to such a neck? Sorry all, some Swedish: Kul att se att det finns fler Uppsalabor här! Quote
dpm99 Posted July 22, 2008 Report Posted July 22, 2008 Ola, That ironing board gives me some ideas. First of all, I love this build and have been anxiously awaiting an update. Secondly, would you be so kind as to give more information on your jig and how you use it? Thanks, -Dave Quote
Strandberg Guitarworks Posted July 23, 2008 Author Report Posted July 23, 2008 (edited) Dave, if you look at the following picture: things might become a little clearer. Looking at the piece with the routing completed: may clarify it further. I simply bolted my piece onto the jig (top picture in original post) then ran the router up and down the ironing board rods, progressively increasing the depth until the full depth had been reached. Then I moved it "up" the width of the bit and ran to the same depth again. Pucko, great indeed to see someone from Uppsala! My contact details are on my site - feel free to get in touch. Regarding fretwork, there is not necessarily any difference compared to a regular neck. It is possible to slot a fretboard the same way. I am still working out what strategy I will take. I could either glue a wooden fretboard on top or make it as well in carbon fiber/epoxi. I am considering the latter since it will most likely be better in the long run with a single material in the neck. In this case, slotting it would remove most of the strength of it. So, I might remove the tangs from the fret wire and glue the frets on top. This will get rid of some additional weight as well. Only drawback is future fretwork, but it is still possible to grind away old frets and replace with new ones. Cheers, Ola Edited July 23, 2008 by Strandberg Guitarworks Quote
aidlook Posted July 23, 2008 Report Posted July 23, 2008 Getting really tempted to trying something like this out. Awesome work. Quote
dpm99 Posted July 23, 2008 Report Posted July 23, 2008 Hey, I've just gotta say...that's pretty brilliant. Thanks. Quote
psw Posted July 24, 2008 Report Posted July 24, 2008 Hey there...I just caught on to this thread. Great to see that the original setback hasn't stopped the project! And...what do I see, a concerted effort to make a sustainer....good for you. Please add your results onto the thread and link the blog and if you need a hand you know where to turn. The F/R circuit was recently modified with a few added components to make it more stable along the lines of what I have always used. Even if you have made the circuit they are not hard to add if necessary. I have always liked the idea of composite guitars. I am still waiting for someone to come up with a composite neck that has the frets molded in in some way...or perhaps a step board like the old bond guitars, of molded scollops, so much potential if you can get the skills together. I have also been considering doing a fretless. If your sustainer works out ok, you might be tempted to as the composite idea might lend well to this idea. A sustainer allows for some incredible cello like sounds and glissandos and there is a whole forum dedicated to this instrument. nice bridge also, I wanted to do something with bridge designs but had very limited success. I thought it should be possible to make a bridge that could alter tunings with levers hidden in a strats tremolo cavity instead of the hipshot trillogy approach...might be another thing to consider as well since you have the skills... All great stuff, looking forward to seeing lots more... Pete Quote
TemjinStrife Posted July 24, 2008 Report Posted July 24, 2008 I'd definitely be interested in a neck/bridge combination. That takes a lot of the guesswork out of making the helical ergonomic stuff work! Quote
Strandberg Guitarworks Posted July 26, 2008 Author Report Posted July 26, 2008 Check out steaming hot pictures on my blog of the "mould mould"... It's set to cure until about noon tomorrow, so I am very nervous right now.... I think I have used too much epoxi, so it might be tricky to remove the mould from the "plug". Quote
Strandberg Guitarworks Posted September 15, 2008 Author Report Posted September 15, 2008 A tidbit of virtual progress - I have definitely not given up yet! More info on the site as always... Quote
reantel Posted September 17, 2008 Report Posted September 17, 2008 Very cool! Looks awesome! I definitely need that floyd drop in model! You should add a drop D divice.... like the d tuna. Quote
Cam Posted September 21, 2008 Report Posted September 21, 2008 With the using a Floyd Rose speed loader on a headless idea how do you tune it? I know it has special strings but the dont come pretuned haha (do they?) because otherwise there is no other way to tune them.... Also about where to buy them doesn't guitar fetish sell them seperate? Oh yeah awesome guitar man and I love that bridge to bad i dont have $350 lol Quote
Strandberg Guitarworks Posted September 21, 2008 Author Report Posted September 21, 2008 Hi Cam, it uses regular strings. You insert them from the rear of the tuner and then lock them at the head with either a Floyd Rose string lock or one that I have designed. That fastener will also be available on a per string basis and can be fastened in a variety of ways and positions, including the original tuner holes, if a regular neck is being converted. Cheers, Ola Quote
Cam Posted September 21, 2008 Report Posted September 21, 2008 sorry... I was refering to the Floyd Rose Speedloader... there were a couple of guys talking about it on the 1st or 2nd page i think Quote
alexoest Posted September 23, 2008 Report Posted September 23, 2008 Is there a chance that we could see the locking nut and fasteners, you designed? /Alex Hi Cam, it uses regular strings. You insert them from the rear of the tuner and then lock them at the head with either a Floyd Rose string lock or one that I have designed. That fastener will also be available on a per string basis and can be fastened in a variety of ways and positions, including the original tuner holes, if a regular neck is being converted. Cheers, Ola Quote
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