RestorationAD Posted April 18, 2008 Report Share Posted April 18, 2008 Next project is up and running. 7 or 6 strings... undecided. 5 piece Neck-Thru Maple/Zebra laminate 25.5" scale - 24 fret - Morado Fretboard Single Humbucker w/Coil Tap <because simple is better, and I hate switches> Recessed TOM w/String Thru V plate or Tailpiece???? Padauk Wings w/Flame maple top The scale was easy. I like my Gibson V but the short scale is too muddy unlike my King V. The neck laminate was easy cause it is what I had. Being the first neck-thru I did not want to use real exotic expensive wood in case I was building a RONCO FireStarter. So what I know is: It will be a Gibson style V headstock and body It will be a fixed bridge TOM style The wood is picked out I have the neck rough built. However I am undecided on several things and would like to here input. Of course I am going to pick what I like from the input but I am open to suggestions. I want a Seven String having recently sold several. I liked playing them, but sometimes I feel that a six string is all I need. I am not sure how to terminate the strings... I am leaning towards a one piece bridge <simple>. Last issue is the Headstock plate. I have a nice piece of Morado that I started to interlace with Zebrano and Purple Heart that I was going to use. After looking at it I am not sure and might just leave it plain, letting the neck stripes carry through. I am pretty sure I am going with a 16" radius on the Fretboard <if it is a 7 this is decided already>. Questions for discussion: Six or Seven Strings? String Thru vs Stop Tailpiece vs One Piece BaddAss style bridge? Headstock Plate or a Headstock of plain neck wood? 12" or 16" radius on Fretboard? Also please offer up some neck dimensions and string spacing if it is a 7 string. It will be 1 11/16" nut like my Jackson if it is a 6. As always there are pictures on my blog http:smithlx.blogspot.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted April 18, 2008 Report Share Posted April 18, 2008 If you're going to make a cover plate on the headstock, I'd take some of the leftover flamed maple from the top and use it instead of the F/B wood. Are you using zebra as the accent laminate in the neck or as the main wood? If it's the accent..... why? In my mind, zebra is all about the striped grain. With it as the accent laminate, you'll never see the striping, thus defeating the point. I'd go with padauk stringers instead to match up better with the wings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2008 Good call on the headstock. The Zebra stringers are thick. +1/4" so you can see the stripes. I was originally going to use Zebra for the tops of the wings which I still might do. I am building 2 neck blanks from this wood... all leftovers since I am practicing. The neck blanks are big enough to build 8 strings out of. The second one will probably be an 8. Thanks for the ideas! Padauk stringers would look sweet! Maybe on the next build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted September 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 (edited) Ok. I know this project got derailed... but I have a new house , new shop and I am firing my projects back up after the whole "Moving thing" The original stuff for this is bailed on. I am building a Vigier Marilyn clone with the neck now. I do have a Randy Rhoads V going on now. And will start a super secret V project shortly. The RRV: 1989 Chandler Neck - refretted and new head plate Paduck Wings Maple center stripe Flame maple top. Fixed Bridge - Chrome hardware - Strings through the body Here are a few shots of the RRV Edited September 25, 2008 by RestorationAD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ngaa Posted September 24, 2008 Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 8 string V! You should totally do that. It would be epic to the max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted September 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 I really wanted to build an 8 string.... The real issue is that I have owned 3 7 strings and played 2 8 strings since I started and honestly.... I don't like them. But I will consider it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted September 24, 2008 Report Share Posted September 24, 2008 pics are broked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted September 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 pics are broked Fixed... moved to photobucket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted September 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 This is making it easier to build stuff.... we should all own one. I saved this one from making wooden wedding invitations for $300.00. It is great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted September 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 Got the tops I ordered from North Ridge Hardwoods today. It was in great shape, no damage, for a reasonable price. Thanks Luke. The tops look really nice. I specifically asked or seconds because I am not going to use all of the wood. I got upgraded flame with defects that are small enough I can work around them. When I get a real important project I will use the Master Grade tops. I also ordered an archtop back and side set. I will be using it for headstock plates and neck lams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted September 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2008 Looks like the tops are not quite big enough for a V. However I planed for this . My choices are to angle the pieces and cover the top completely. I doubt this is my plan as it will waste a lot of usable pieces. I think the plan will be to add a set of Morado (Pau Ferro) strips to the middle of the guitar top and use the left overs for other projects including a matching head plate for the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted September 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2008 Todays progress... still have 1/8" flame maple top to go... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2008 More progress on the V. I have dressed the fretboard on the old Chandler neck and glued on the new Flamed headplate and the Walnut veneer I managed to glue the maple drop-top w/ the walnut veneer on but I am telling you this is a pain in the arse... I have to read some tutorials on glueing drop tops up. I suck at it. I used 2 screws in the pickup cavity to stop it moving but had a real issue with clamping. Since I did it all in one shot I assume the answer is to glue the plate together then glue it to the body. <I will try to remeber this lesson> I also worked on shaping my neck for the other guitar ... Made a really nice plexiglass neck template and used my router table and the delta joiner planer to get some real work done... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2008 I managed to get a really nice tearout on the maple top while trimming it... router bits are mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 Got the headstock plate trimmed up and installed the frets. Seated the nut with my small chisel with some 120Grit Klingspore stickm sandpaper on one side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 Fret work is rough on the hands. I am usually sore the day after a fret job. I guess because I don't like to use pliers to fit the fret wire. I run it through my fret bender then shape by hand. I have found pliers kink the wire and make high spots. Notes on Fret Pressing: Make sure the fret is square before pressing it in. I wasn't able to use a hammer because is was 1:00 in the morning but I took extra time to make sure that I had everything square. Make sure the curve of the fret matches the fret board exactly. 14" Radius on the fret board and the 12" radius insert will leave the middle of the fret sticking up if it is over bent. It happened on the first fret I pressed in. I ended up going back with a 16" radius insert and pressing the middle down. Obviously if I had a 14" radius insert ($4.45 at StewMac) this might have been avoided but It will happen on compound radius fret boards also. Support the neck. Either make a neck support or buy the one from StewMac. I also ended up needing some spacers to press the frets into the transition from the heal to the block part of the neck. I learned 2 techniques when I worked as a Luthier. The hammer-in technique and the epoxy glue-in method. I am not a fan of the hammer in technique. I liked the glue-in technique but it was messy and unforgiving of poor fitting frets. The press in method is superior to all however it requires the fit of a glue-in and the technique from a hammer in (sort of...) One other thing I am not a fan of is nipping fret ends with end cutters. I usually saw the fret ends off with a razor saw or a dremel. It is too easy to unseat a fret with a pair of end-nippers. I will try a steeper fret end on this neck and see how it feels. I have always felt that 35 degrees was too lax but tradition has kept me from changing it. I am not doing hemispherical ends on this neck as it is too much work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 (edited) This body is thin. So the control cavity/input jack was a bit of a challenge however this is what I figured out. I know you guys like to plan but I am still winging this build. Finished filling the fret slots with ebony dust and CA Recessed the TOM. I was going to use a neck angle but the "Black Machines" thinness of the body really doesn't lend to it. Stripe in the headstock Edited October 13, 2008 by RestorationAD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElysianGuitars Posted October 13, 2008 Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 (edited) recessed TOM=droolworthy. not going to put the jack in the traditional Rhoads V spot? i did that on my V, worked out pretty well, was pretty easy... Edited October 13, 2008 by ElysianGuitars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2008 I have 3 V's and hate the jack position on all of them... so I am going to try something different on this one. I will let you know how it works out. I wanted to recess the TOM more but I am out of depth on the posts. I can lower the action until it is within a 1/32" of touching the 22 fret so it will do. I might try to squeeze another 1/32nd out.... However I hate to mess something up this late in the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 Black Stain Burst and the neck glued in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted October 18, 2008 Report Share Posted October 18, 2008 The black burst looks good... but that has got to be the most uncomfortable placement for a jack imo. My Rhoads is all I play anymore, and I'd hate to have a cord hanging down between my legs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2008 The black burst looks good... but that has got to be the most uncomfortable placement for a jack imo. My Rhoads is all I play anymore, and I'd hate to have a cord hanging down between my legs That is why you experiment on your friends and families guitars not your own.... Over the weekend the burst has gone almost Purple.... I hope it blackens as I put the finish on. I am still torn on what to do on the finish. I am tempted to Tung Oil it and be done. However I think the Paduck needs grain fill. I want to use epoxy but am hesitant to make a lot of work for my self... If I use epoxy then spray laquer the whole thing it will be nice but hte weather is starting to turn cold and will make for a messy finishing project. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2008 Waiting on the finish to cure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2008 On a side note "I am done with Padauk for a while." I am tired of everything being red-orange, Tired of tearout. Tired of Splintering and Chips. I am moving back to Mahogany and maybe Sapele if I can find a local supplier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 27, 2008 Report Share Posted October 27, 2008 By the way,my KXK v has the jack on the upper horn,close to the tip...on the back...it works very well and I think that is the optimum placement for a v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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