PunkRockerLuke Posted May 13, 2008 Report Share Posted May 13, 2008 I have a couple of pine boards I'm going to be using as a top (or a back) on my strat build and one of the two has a lot of areas of sap. Would these sappy areas cause any problems at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted May 13, 2008 Report Share Posted May 13, 2008 i would say it would be a huge problem, mainly becuase that means its no where near dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted May 13, 2008 Report Share Posted May 13, 2008 Sap content has little to nothing to do with dryness; as the wood ages, the sap tends to become more brittle/harder/less sticky, but you can have perfectly dry wood with slightly sticky sap pockets. The pain in the butt bit is clearing them out and filling/repairing them in some way, shape or form to make sure they don't interfere with finishing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan316 Posted May 14, 2008 Report Share Posted May 14, 2008 Sap is a horrible mess. Just go get some cheap boards of poplar to make your top. Heck, even a lumber yard might have scraps the size you'd need for the top, go ask em if they got any throwaways for you with no sap in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted May 14, 2008 Report Share Posted May 14, 2008 If you can heat the wood to about 160 deg ( Fahrenheit ), that will set the pitch, and it will not soften again, unless it gets above that temperature ( not likely ) But heat it slowly and carefully so it doesn't crack, and keep in mind the pitch will ooze everywhere as it expands. Use shellac over the pitchy areas to seal them, otherwise it will likely mess up whatever finish you put on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted May 14, 2008 Report Share Posted May 14, 2008 If you can heat the wood to about 160 deg ( Fahrenheit ), that will set the pitch, and it will not soften again, unless it gets above that temperature ( not likely ) But heat it slowly and carefully so it doesn't crack, and keep in mind the pitch will ooze everywhere as it expands. Use shellac over the pitchy areas to seal them, otherwise it will likely mess up whatever finish you put on it. That will set the pitch if you bring it fully up to temp, if you just heat the surface it will possibly rise later. That is also going to overdry the wood, so it will move during the process(shrink and possibly distort), then it will expand as it comes back to equilibrium moisture. You may experience cracking or splitting depending on how dry the wood is before you start the process. Sealing the body up with shellac is a good idea also, but wait until it has stabalized otherwise it will slow it equalizing back to normal, and you have resurfaced it to take out any distortion it develops. I have done this with Douglas Fir soundboards, but those are usually 3/16" thick. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copperhead Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 make sure its dry if its not your join in the middle will open enough to create a seem in your lacquer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 I have a couple of pine boards I'm going to be using as a top (or a back) on my strat build and one of the two has a lot of areas of sap. Would these sappy areas cause any problems at all? Luke Pm me with your address, I'll send you a set of curly or quilted maple. They won't be a AAAA grade but much better than your pine. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PunkRockerLuke Posted May 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 Seriously? Thanks a bunch man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan316 Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 Even leftover scraps of maple tops would be wiser than using the sappy pine. Even if it's for a crap beater guitar, it's still worth doing it right. MiKro rules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 I have a couple of pine boards I'm going to be using as a top (or a back) on my strat build and one of the two has a lot of areas of sap. Would these sappy areas cause any problems at all? Luke Pm me with your address, I'll send you a set of curly or quilted maple. They won't be a AAAA grade but much better than your pine. Mike Hey Mikro ,that's way cool of you.I'll pitch in too.Luke if you PM me ,I can send you some veneer to use. http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff185/r...er/PB220682.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff185/r...er/PB220681.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff185/r...er/PB220680.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff185/r...er/PB220679.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff185/r...er/PA270649.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 (edited) Seriously? Thanks a bunch man!No Problem, I got your PM, will ship it next week. I'll post a Pic whenI get the set out. Mike Edited to add: Here's the set I'm sending Luke. Not a great set but has nice quilt to it. Wiped it down with mineral spirits to show the grain. One more thing Luke? This set is only 20" long and 13 5/8" wide. Let me know if it is not large enough before I ship it. If it is too small give me the size needed? Edited May 15, 2008 by MiKro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PunkRockerLuke Posted May 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 Thanks goes out to you as well Dean! MiKro I think that would work for a stratocaster body. Once again Thank You for the wood MiKro and Thank You Dean for the veneer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 (edited) Thanks goes out to you as well Dean! MiKro I think that would work for a stratocaster body. Once again Thank You for the wood MiKro and Thank You Dean for the veneer. You're welcome, I'll try and get it shipped by Tuesday, and I hope it works for you Mike edited to add: Has been shipped MK Edited May 15, 2008 by MiKro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dean Posted May 15, 2008 Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 Your welcome,I will ship it when I get back.Going south for the weekend.This gives you time to get all your stuff together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PunkRockerLuke Posted May 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2008 Thanks a bunch guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted May 17, 2008 Report Share Posted May 17, 2008 Thanks a bunch guys.Luke there is some warping (minor) in this set. I have edge planed it for gluing based on the picture. The warping will not be a problem when clamped to a body. Just an FYI for you. So please don't be concerned about it. It's normal to expect some movement in the wood after milling, due to stress in the wood. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PunkRockerLuke Posted May 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2008 Ok thanks for the FYI MiKro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PunkRockerLuke Posted May 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2008 I got the wood yesterday MiKro. Thanks again!. I'll probably just make a case for the Strat with the pine boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted May 22, 2008 Report Share Posted May 22, 2008 I got the wood yesterday MiKro. Thanks again!. I'll probably just make a case for the Strat with the pine boards. You are welcome Luke, Make me proud and do something great with it if nothing else, learn from this Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PunkRockerLuke Posted May 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2008 I'll sure try!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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