Jump to content

Will This Laquer Be Ok For My Project?


Recommended Posts

I'm working on my first guitar refinish. I've been reading lots about what to use, and how to's. from both here and rer*nch. I purchased just about everything from my local Home Depot (Naptha, BIN primer, sanding sealer etc.) When I went to buy the lacquer all I found was http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=109. Would this be ok? I know it's not nitro, which is what is recommended, but at half the cost, and wait time for shipping, is it worth it? Will this buff out like the nitro?Also, can anyone tell me about how many cans of black/clear I should get to cover my Ibanez RG470? I've seen several places where people have redone an Ibanez, but none say how much was used of materials. My plan was black on back and sides feathered into a blue or black translucent top (waiting for my quilted maple veneer to come in). I was thinking 2 can black and 3 cans clear? (11 oz cans is what the Rustoleum is) Does that sound about right given my project plans? If I do have to order nitro, I don't want to pay twice for shipping for not ordering enough the first time. Thanks in advance :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

/bump

i really think nitro is overrated. to me, its actually the exact opposite of what i would want in a finish. its meant to move and contract with the wood. i want a finish that will not ever move, and stay solid. like 2 part auto clears. hard as a rock, and dont crack and stuff over time. and as long as nitro(or any laquer for that matter) takes so dang long to cure, i dont see why anyone on the planet would like laquer. the only benifit I see is that it has burn in properties. i think that laquer you want to use is fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Use the search function and look up Rustoleum. It has been covered a lot.

Killemall: A lot of people like nitro for the vintage vibe. It is extremely easy to repair, and in reality has better clarity than almost any other finish, including the 2-part poly's. If Gibson is still shooting nitro, it can't be all bad. The long cure time is a draw back. But is sand very easily, and I've always had great luck getting it to spray and flow out nicely. Plus there is the whole tone voodo thing that I won't get into. I stay as far away from those debates as I can.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help everyone. I've spent about the last 4 hours reading previous posts regarding this same subject, for that I apologize for not looking into it further before posting. Seems from what I have read it basically comes down to where you live in the country. Looks like people in higher humidities have trouble with it sagging. I'm assuming due to the humidity, that could get the sag no matter what you sprayed? Since I live in California (Yes it's dry heat.....VERY DRY LOL), 101 today here so I don't see humidity being a factor, unless of course it was overcast that day, which I wouldn't be attempting to finish anyways. I see it will take about a month to completely cure before I can buff it out. I'm assuming this means playing it as well? This is my only guitar at the moment, I didn't realize how not being able to play would affect me so. But if I must not play it for a month, I guess I'll learn self control.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If Gibson is still shooting nitro, it can't be all bad.

I'm a big fan of nitro but you may have just convinced me to never use it again :D:D

Personally i think its the best instrument finish because of how it ages and how it interacts with the wood

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Almost all of the drawbacks of nitro are positives for me -- I like the way it ages, how it mellows, yellows, cracks and dents and basically moves with the wood over time. I like the way it feels too --has a warmth that other finishes don't. And yes, it's really easy to apply and forgiving too. Only real drawback for me is it's toxic. But then, most finishes are. The waiting time sucks, but I've got a busy life, plenty of things to do in the meantime. And I've got lots of guitars now.

I can understand that people like killemall, who prefer their guitars to look shiny and new forever, would hate nitro. But that's exactly why I don't buy new guitars--they'll never get old, never look like they've played. At least, not the way a nitro covered guitar can look.

So that part comes down to personal preference.

It took me a while to find cans here, but I eventually did. A bit pricey, but that's part of building guitars.

But my first guitar I finished with acrylic automotive lacquer....less forgiving than nitro, but it still looks good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't use it. I rather get any nitro from Stew Mac instead.

i really think nitro is overrated. to me, its actually the exact opposite of what i would want in a finish. its meant to move and contract with the wood. i want a finish that will not ever move, and stay solid. like 2 part auto clears. hard as a rock, and dont crack and stuff over time. and as long as nitro(or any laquer for that matter) takes so dang long to cure, i dont see why anyone on the planet would like laquer. the only benifit I see is that it has burn in properties. i think that laquer you want to use is fine.

Now, have you painted with 2K? Because it is not hard as a rock once cured, it is plastic like. And it flexes and moves with the plastics on my car. you got this right, it will not crack like you mention, so that is a plus.

Both of them have their pros and cons. If you can spray 2K safely go ahead and use it. If not then nitro (good one) will do the job, it just takes more time and work to finish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't use it. I rather get any nitro from Stew Mac instead.

i really think nitro is overrated. to me, its actually the exact opposite of what i would want in a finish. its meant to move and contract with the wood. i want a finish that will not ever move, and stay solid. like 2 part auto clears. hard as a rock, and dont crack and stuff over time. and as long as nitro(or any laquer for that matter) takes so dang long to cure, i dont see why anyone on the planet would like laquer. the only benifit I see is that it has burn in properties. i think that laquer you want to use is fine.

Now, have you painted with 2K? Because it is not hard as a rock once cured, it is plastic like. And it flexes and moves with the plastics on my car. you got this right, it will not crack like you mention, so that is a plus.

Both of them have their pros and cons. If you can spray 2K safely go ahead and use it. If not then nitro (good one) will do the job, it just takes more time and work to finish.

I've seen 2k laquer in aerosol cans on ebay recently. I think the hardener is a seperate part of the can and there's a button/pin to push on the base that mixes the two components. I'm considering giving it a go as it sounds like it'll be better than Acrylic for this project (a BC Rich so no worries about an accurate vintage finish :D)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...