Rick500 Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 I recently got a pair of Dragon rasps (sold by Stew-Mac), one fine and one coarse. Wow! These are really great rasps. Very much worth the little over $80 I paid for the pair of them. If you're in the market, take a look at them. I was a little skeptical, but having them in-hand now, I don't see how they could be any better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 (edited) I was just looking at them the other day. I always hear Mattia and other guys talk about how much they like hand made rasps and how well they work. I'm definitely looking to grab some prior to the next neck I build. In looking at a rasp it seems so strange that the difference could be that noticeable, however, I trust the words of those who have said so. So, I will likely grab some new rasps, probably those dragon rasps, does it seem helpful to have both course and fine rasps? Do you feel you could get away with one course? Thanks for the heads up Rick, its funny timing as I was probably looking at the them last night or the night prior, more or less dreaming I had some extra money on hand. I'm still trying to buy those locking TOM posts from tonepros and some fretfiles. Edited May 29, 2008 by jmrentis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted May 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 Yeah, you could probably get by okay with just the finer one. The coarser one will save some work and time though, if you can spend the extra money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 Hand cut is a completely different tool from those machine cut rasps you're used to. I like having a fairly coarse (medium, really) and a finer rasp, each has it's place, but I'd choose a medium-coarse over a super fine if I could only get one. BTW, for you Euro folks, Dick Tools (Dick.biz) has pretty darn decent Chinese made swordfish and other rasps that cost almost nothing (less than 8 euros, some less than 5). They're not as nice as the Herdim rasps, but they're fantastic value for cash, that's for certain... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackdog Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 BTW, for you Euro folks, Dick Tools (Dick.biz) has pretty darn decent Chinese made swordfish and other rasps that cost almost nothing (less than 8 euros, some less than 5). They're not as nice as the Herdim rasps, but they're fantastic value for cash, that's for certain... I need a couple of good rasps and was checking Dick Tools... At about a third of the price of the "Ultra" Precision ones, are the Herdim Precision Half-Round Rasps worth a try ?? e.g. Stock Nr. 704733 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 The 'Ultra' tools are superduper very fine cut tools; frankly, I don't think you need anything that fine - at that point use some sandpaper and/or scrapers. I reccomend cabinet files, not half-round files for guitar work. Perfect amount of curve for pretty much everything on a guitar body or neck. I have the medium and coarse (I think...) pair with some small rosewood handles, and love them: http://www.dick.biz/cgi-bin/dick.storefron...uct/View/704716 Got some of the chinese ones as 'extras' in coarser grits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 If I am right in thinking, a machine pattern is regular, so over large straight strokes, teeth would more than likely run through the scores already cut by the leading teeth. My rasps seem to do this unless I really rip against the grain of the wood, which limits the directions the rasp is useful in. A hand-hammered rasp would be less regular (I wouldn’t like to use the word “random” in connection with anything hand-made) and more likely to produce even and thorough cut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted May 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 (edited) If I am right in thinking, a machine pattern is regular, so over large straight strokes, teeth would more than likely run through the scores already cut by the leading teeth. My rasps seem to do this unless I really rip against the grain of the wood, which limits the directions the rasp is useful in. A hand-hammered rasp would be less regular (I wouldn’t like to use the word “random” in connection with anything hand-made) and more likely to produce even and thorough cut. That's been my experience. The hand-cut rasps are just completely different tools than machine cut rasps. [Edit: Oh, I now see that Mattia already said just that. Well, I agree with Mattia then. ] Edited May 30, 2008 by Rick500 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted May 30, 2008 Report Share Posted May 30, 2008 Yep. Pretty much what you said. Hand cut rasp = FTW. For the record, the Herdim rasps are certainly worth the surcharge over the chinese rasps, decent though they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 (edited) Yep. Pretty much what you said. Hand cut rasp = FTW. For the record, the Herdim rasps are certainly worth the surcharge over the chinese rasps, decent though they are. Curious if anyone has compared these to pattern makers rasps or the Herdim. I have the Nicholson #49 and #50. Both of these Dragons are about the same price as one of my Nicholson rasps. Hey look I asked a question. Edited June 5, 2008 by Woodenspoke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackdog Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 The 'Ultra' tools are superduper very fine cut tools; frankly, I don't think you need anything that fine - at that point use some sandpaper and/or scrapers. I reccomend cabinet files, not half-round files for guitar work. Perfect amount of curve for pretty much everything on a guitar body or neck. I have the medium and coarse (I think...) pair with some small rosewood handles, and love them: http://www.dick.biz/cgi-bin/dick.storefron...uct/View/704716 Got some of the chinese ones as 'extras' in coarser grits. Good tip. Cabinet rasps then. I'm thinking number 4 and 5 of those, right ?? But I guess I can ask you personally tomorrow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalwarrior Posted June 21, 2008 Report Share Posted June 21, 2008 I have both of the stewmac ones too. For most of the neck shaping task I use a much coarser rasp though (I think it's Nicholson brand from the local hardware store). Then I do the final bit of shaping with the coarser of the two stewmac ones before sanding. The finer of the two never gets used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny Posted June 23, 2008 Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 my machine milled rasps leave pattern marks that i really need to dig into get rid of, allthough they work it gets annoying when i get some xtra cash ill get dragon rasps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted June 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2008 I have both of the stewmac ones too. For most of the neck shaping task I use a much coarser rasp though (I think it's Nicholson brand from the local hardware store). Then I do the final bit of shaping with the coarser of the two stewmac ones before sanding. The finer of the two never gets used. I find that I actually use the finer one more than the coarse one. (Not that one way is better than the other.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myka Guitars Posted July 1, 2008 Report Share Posted July 1, 2008 Not too much more to add. I love hand cut rasps as well. I have the Nicholson #49 and #50 and a nice set from Gramercy. These come in 3 sizes. I love the smaller fine rasp for headstock and neck heel work. You can't beat the price for the set either. ~David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riffster Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 Those stewmac rasps seem like such a cool thing to own. But, I don't know if I'd ever purchase them from stewmac. I would probably purchase from this site based on price. In this situation, would buying these rasps from stewmac be the best decision? I'd rather save a buck if I could. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted July 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 Well, the Dragon rasps bought from Stew-Mac are less expensive than the handmade ones on the site you mentioned. I wouldn't even bother with the machine-made ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riffster Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 Yeah, again I look like an idiot. I was looking at the new stewmac catalog and I saw 82.50. That number ended up being for both rasps. That was the first number that jumped at me, So I need to drop out of college and go back to the first grade to learn how to read. Hope some people were entertained by my stupidity, or most likely--disturbed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 It never hurts to shop around. Honestly when I went to buy some tone pros locking bridge posts, I went straight to stewmac. Then when I saw the $8.50 or so shipping on a near weightless item I thought to look around. Not only was I able to find them elsewhere for $4 or $5 less, but I found free shipping as well. So I saved quite a few bucks just by checking around. I always keep stewmac as one of the places to look, but I try to shop around before buying from them. For example, Lee Valley(leevalley.com) sells some hand cut rasps, under the shaping section in woodworking. They sell the #49 & #50 Nicholsons pattern makers rasps and their own hand cut rasps, as with the price I'd bet you'd notice a difference between the two brands. You can buy the hand cut ones starting at just over $20 for the smallest one. The nice Nicholsons are a bit more $48.5 for the #49 and around $57.5 for the #50. Thats just one place I could think of off the top of my head, I'm sure you could find another few places that deal in woodworking items. Those Dragon Rasps look pretty nice, although getting that nice set Myka pointed out sounds like a good deal on some nice rasps. I'm also curious of woodenspokes question, if anyone can compare the Dragons rasps with the Nicholsons #49-#50. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted July 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 (edited) Yeah, again I look like an idiot. I was looking at the new stewmac catalog and I saw 82.50. That number ended up being for both rasps. That was the first number that jumped at me, So I need to drop out of college and go back to the first grade to learn how to read. Hope some people were entertained by my stupidity, or most likely--disturbed. Oh, relax, I do stuff like that all the time. I'm also curious of woodenspokes question, if anyone can compare the Dragons rasps with the Nicholsons #49-#50. J I have a cheap Nicholson rasp I got at the hardware store before I got the Dragons. Not sure which one it is, but it was really cheap. I only use it for non-guitar stuff now. Edited July 4, 2008 by Rick500 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted July 4, 2008 Report Share Posted July 4, 2008 I know it's not the same category exactly, but micro-plane rasps remove a heck of a lot of material quickly (shavings rather than sawdust). Unlike the quality handmade rasps you guys are talking about, though, there ARE some significant tool marks left over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted July 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2008 I tried a Microplane before I got the good rasps, and found that it was difficult to keep it oriented along the grain in a way that it wouldn't gouge little bites out of the wood. I only tried it on maple; maybe it would work better on mahogany or the like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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