G_urr_A Posted December 10, 2003 Report Share Posted December 10, 2003 I just thought about the possibility of adding a veneer to the back of a neck, to be able to get figure on the neck without making it too fragile. Is there any reason why you'd not be able to add vener to the back of a neck? Anyone tried? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowser Posted December 10, 2003 Report Share Posted December 10, 2003 i don't really know but i would guess that it couldn't take that much of a bend without snapping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryeisnotcool2 Posted December 10, 2003 Report Share Posted December 10, 2003 give it a try with just regular maple veneer first to see if you can get the bend, then if it works go back and use the good stuff dont glue the regular on though, just dampen it and clamp it until its dry then see if it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted December 10, 2003 Report Share Posted December 10, 2003 I don't know how it would make the transition from the back of the neck up to the headstock portion, but just for the back of the neck, just get a spritzer bottle and spritz it with water, the veneer will curl up all on it's own, and the water makes it much more workable and pliable. You can totally soak it if you want, you're not going to hurt the veneer, just makes it harder to glue up if it's -really- wet, but veneer will take water all day... On a side note, if your veneer has any holes in it at all, before you clamp it, stick a piece of wax paper between it and the clamping caul (the entire length) so you don't glue the caul to the veneer and ruin it trying to remove a glued caul. I ALWAYS use wax paper between veneer and the clamp/caul... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daddy ray Posted December 10, 2003 Report Share Posted December 10, 2003 hey everyone this is my first post glad i found this forum i've been looking for one that was more tech oriented i did a purpleheart veneer on a neck back it wasn't wrapped, but rather i milled the back of the neck flat, bonded the purpleheart to the flat & filed/sanded it to match the original contour looked pretty good pay attention to the fit into the headstock transition area for nice fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted December 10, 2003 Report Share Posted December 10, 2003 Wuddup Big Daddy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted December 10, 2003 Report Share Posted December 10, 2003 I ALWAYS use wax paper between veneer and the clamp/caul... another great tip drak.i never thought of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daddy ray Posted December 11, 2003 Report Share Posted December 11, 2003 Wuddup Big Daddy? thanks drak! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted December 11, 2003 Report Share Posted December 11, 2003 Welcome to the forum daddy ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daddy ray Posted December 11, 2003 Report Share Posted December 11, 2003 Welcome to the forum daddy ray brian: thanks for the welcome! the school of hard knocks present us with our most valuable lessons we tend to remember better that which cost us something in the learning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnJohn Posted December 11, 2003 Report Share Posted December 11, 2003 You can add the veneer fairly solidly,soaking it will give you some bend without snapping.And to keep it from bubbling put a damp(not soaking) cloth between the veneer and your clamping caul.I used to apply it right against the veneer,but I like that wax paper idea butween the damp cloth and the veneer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotrock Posted December 11, 2003 Report Share Posted December 11, 2003 I ALWAYS use wax paper between veneer and the clamp/caul... I use clingfilm, it's cheeper and I'm tight. Welcome to the forum daddy ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funkle Posted December 11, 2003 Report Share Posted December 11, 2003 I'd worry about long term durability. -Sven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted December 11, 2003 Report Share Posted December 11, 2003 Okay...I started a fretless project, and I have some questions. I got an acoustic guitar from a friend for 20 dollars, and it really doesn't sound that bad to be so cheap. Anyhow, after the fretless thread on here, I couldn't help it, so I pulled the frets out. I'm not entirely sure what kind of wood the fretboard is, but it's really light (in color and density), and it was just spraypainted black. I'm looking for a nice ebony veneer for the fretboard. Will that work? I was thinking of gluing the ebony veneer on (if anyone knows where I can get some that's not very streaky I'd appreciate it), and then inlaying small pieces of maple where the frets should be as markers. After that, I was planning on putting some kind of finish on...maybe a polyurethane? I've heard that they dry really hard. I've never worked with it, so does anyone have any pointers for working with it, or any suggestions for a different strategy. I was also planning on putting a figured maple veneer on the top (it's plywood, and the veneer that is original isn't very pretty. How would I go about putting that on? Is there any possible way to avoid pulling the bridge off? I'm assuming to put the veneer on all I have to do is sand off the finish, and glue it on like in the tutorial on the main site (thought the tutorial is for a solidbody). Also, I'm gonna do a figured maple headstock overlay, and contemplating doing the back and sides of the body with ebony (if I can find enough), or mahogany or something similar. Maybe even figured maple. I could add some dye to the laquer and darken up the back and sides, or I could just make it all really light..I'm just brainstorming here, so any ideas would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted December 12, 2003 Report Share Posted December 12, 2003 Anybody got anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renablistic Posted December 12, 2003 Report Share Posted December 12, 2003 seems like alot of work/money for a 20 dollar guitar... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Headen Posted December 12, 2003 Report Share Posted December 12, 2003 It's mostly just for practice veneering...I might not even do the body, just the fingerboard. I need to have something on the fingerboard to finish and for it to look decent so I don't tear up the wood while playing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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