sb guitars Posted March 28, 2009 Report Share Posted March 28, 2009 I just finished sanding my body with what I think is 2000 grit sanding foam block thing. It doesn't say what grit it really is but, I compared the foam block and normal 2000 grit sand paper and the foam block came out as the finer grit. The paint I used was Dupli-Color engine enamel, acrylic polymer. And it's a rattle can. I know that many other forum members rather not use rattle cans...buuuut, thats all I got. And Dupli-Color worked perfectly fine for me as a paint. The problem I have is the sanding. The foam block I used has left little tiny scratches that I rather not be there. Now I'm pretty sure that a wet sanding can get rid of this but, I'm hesitant. I just want to triple check that a wet sanding is what is needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wood is good Posted March 29, 2009 Report Share Posted March 29, 2009 ENGINE ENAMEL????? Why would you use that??? Its not meant to be sanded at all!!! That is paint only for high heat stuff! Wow. Why would you go with that instead of just regular Dupli color? That is the mistake. That paint is flat, and wont buff or gloss at all. Its just not meant for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb guitars Posted March 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2009 ENGINE ENAMEL????? Why would you use that??? Its not meant to be sanded at all!!! That is paint only for high heat stuff! Wow. Why would you go with that instead of just regular Dupli color? That is the mistake. That paint is flat, and wont buff or gloss at all. Its just not meant for that. Actually it is working perfectly. After sanding it still has a nice mirror like gloss. Like I said the only problem that there is, is LITTLE TINY SCRATCHES. You should really read before replying. I was looking for an answer not criticism. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wood is good Posted March 29, 2009 Report Share Posted March 29, 2009 If i diddnt read your post, how would i have even known what you were using? Yes i read your post. I said those things for a reason. Engine enamel is not supposed to be sanded. Which is probably why your seeing scratches still. And that doesnt really make sense, you wouldnt be seeing gloss AFTER you sanded, that would make even more flat looking until it was buffed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb guitars Posted March 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2009 Either way it still maintains a glossy finish. I started this post for help not to start an argument. If you cant answer the question then please don't reply. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wood is good Posted March 29, 2009 Report Share Posted March 29, 2009 Ive answered the question twice already. The reason those tint scratches are staying there is because that paint isnt supposed to be sanded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb guitars Posted March 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2009 Have you ever tried using this paint? They aren't tint scratches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wood is good Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 Oh really, COME ON! I diddnt mean to type "TINT" scratches. That doesnt even make sense. I have not used it on a guitar, but i know its not meant to be sanded, and doesnt work well with sanding. Its thick and doesnt dry like normal paint. It isnt consistent in flow or viscosity, which is probably why your getting small scratches. What grit are you going to? I keep telling you. It probably wont be very good in the end, its not meant to be clear coated, or used in the manner you are using it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 I used that type of enamel before,and I had alot of problems with it...Like WIG says(though maybe not as well as he might have),that enamel tends to stay soft for a long,long time...it won't really sand properly because of it... Hard to explain...but I think the heat of the motor helps bake it down hard over time... It is an oil based enamel,If I remember right...on mine I combined gloss black with blood red until I got a deep,lush burgundy ish color...then during sanding I ended up ruining it and had to scrap the idea... I guess without the heat it just does not dry hard enough... But in reality there are not much choices in a spray can finish...For me it was like beating my head against a wall every time it came time to finish a guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 (edited) Breaking my own self imposed curfew and not an expert on finishing...however... Wes is right, this kind of thing is supposed to bake hard with engine heat...before trying to "scrap it" though...perhaps if you heated it up you might make it sufficiently hard to buff out scratches. Don't but or warp your guitar in the process...maybe start with a hair drier or a heat gun at a fair distance...perhaps some kind of hot lamp. My understanding of this kind of product is that it skins on the outside then bakes with heat on the inside...but it might work...worth a go...easier than trying to get it off! good luck... pete PS...this is the tutorial and reference section...not a good place to get a quick answer to anything really! Edited March 30, 2009 by psw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb guitars Posted March 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 Sorry about putting this in the wrong section. Strangely enough, this paint does dry quickly and hard too. I've been able to sand after 30 minutes drying time. Even weirder, the temperature here hasn't even gone above 15C....and everything works nicely. I've painted with enamels before, and the result was that soft finish that gets messed up after sanding. And, WIG, I just went to duplicolor's website and they revamped the engine enamel. And after googling sanding engine enamel, I found out lots of people give it a lite sanding to have a better finish.....lite as in 2000 grit. Which is what I'm using. So our disagreement was purely based on misinformation. http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted March 30, 2009 Report Share Posted March 30, 2009 Let me ask a dumb question that I have not seen posed yet. Have you tried polishing it yet? You sanded to 2000 grit which will leave a semi-gloss finish full of millions of tiny scratches. Polishing will remove these final scratches. Remember a good finish on a car, especially the engine is a poor finish on a guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb guitars Posted March 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 Let me ask a dumb question that I have not seen posed yet. Have you tried polishing it yet? You sanded to 2000 grit which will leave a semi-gloss finish full of millions of tiny scratches. Polishing will remove these final scratches. Remember a good finish on a car, especially the engine is a poor finish on a guitar. Nope haven't polished it yet. I will be tomorrow night. Thank you for telling me that, the wet sanding removed some of them, and after the polishing-they should all be gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 Once you start getting into 600 and 800 grit or higher you should be wet sanding the whole time. Those fine grit papers clog up fast, and create corns which cause scratches. The wet sanding helps lubricate the paper to make it sand easier, and to help keep the sand area clear and to help prevent corns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb guitars Posted March 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 Once you start getting into 600 and 800 grit or higher you should be wet sanding the whole time. Those fine grit papers clog up fast, and create corns which cause scratches. The wet sanding helps lubricate the paper to make it sand easier, and to help keep the sand area clear and to help prevent corns. Thank you very much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supplebanana Posted March 31, 2009 Report Share Posted March 31, 2009 my experience with enamels is that they chip very easily after they are fully cured.... not always the best thing for a guitar. never tried them with a clear coat over them tho'.....might work. sb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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