Pestvic Posted April 12, 2009 Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 (edited) So after building this Test SCRAP wood guitar to see if i could do it well enough to really try a build i built this beauty, with maple or something (dont know what it was it was scrap wood. but it sounds AMAZING great lows and perfect highs, great mid) and a veneer which turned out like this i decided to get the real wood here is the link Mahogany on fiigured maple Check out this Figure!! So right now the blanks have been rough cut around the template lines and are being glued together! i think im only allowed 3 pics a post? or.. until someone buffer posts? but anyway let me know so i can start posting the build. i got pics of it clamped and soon (cause its dry now) me routing the edges flush (Still rough though.) Then im going to do some relief cuts then route the wood to the template By the way im new here. well ive been here for a while (posting). but i never got welcomed haha. so i figured id start off getting myself on these boards by getting a real build started! Thanks everyone for the awesome information Edited April 12, 2009 by Pestvic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny Posted April 12, 2009 Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 buffer and its 4 pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted April 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 (edited) buffer and its 4 pictures sweet thanks! pics comming right up Edited April 12, 2009 by Pestvic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted April 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 (edited) ok well so far what i did is clamped and glued the body together heres the body glued and free from the clamps, you can see the figure, i love it! Next i routed the figured maple flush (still rough) with the mahogany Then i took a Angle Grinder and sanded it even more flush. (dont worry i did this outside with a mask and saftey glasses haha Now all i have to do is make it flush with the template! Any suggestions? (i dont want router blowout or messups here :-P Man i wish i had a spindle table sander. GAH haha And by the way! HAPPY EASTER! Edited April 12, 2009 by Pestvic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpm99 Posted April 12, 2009 Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 Any suggestions? :-P Yes. Always store food and cleaning products separately. Great work, man. It's looking good. -Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted April 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 (edited) Any suggestions? :-P ] Yes. Always store food and cleaning products separately. Great work, man. It's looking good. -Dave Thanks! Edited April 13, 2009 by MexicanBreed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops1983 Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 Flush cut router bits. Try MLCS bits. I got a shipment from them and they seem really good. But before you use the router take more off the body so you only have like 1.5-2mm to take off with the router to avoid tear outs! By the way looking great! Good job on the scrap build aswell. Chad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae3 Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 Looking good, and your scrap build shows some nice work also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted April 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 (edited) Flush cut router bits. Try MLCS bits. I got a shipment from them and they seem really good. But before you use the router take more off the body so you only have like 1.5-2mm to take off with the router to avoid tear outs! By the way looking great! Good job on the scrap build aswell. Chad. well i got a 80 dollar craftsman carbide bearing guide template bit so i know its good, i think thats good right?. but youre saying as long as i sand it down pretty close to the template line it will route out nice and smooth? oh and thanks, im really glad my scrap build came out nice too Edited April 13, 2009 by Pestvic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted April 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 Looking good, and your scrap build shows some nice work also. thanks guess woods in school helped a lot. im really glad i took the class, i guess what i learned is showing through. anyway thanks i really hope this next build comes out great too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops1983 Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 Flush cut router bits. Try MLCS bits. I got a shipment from them and they seem really good. But before you use the router take more off the body so you only have like 1.5-2mm to take off with the router to avoid tear outs! By the way looking great! Good job on the scrap build aswell. Chad. well i got a 80 dollar craftsman carbide bearing guide template bit so i know its good, i think thats good right?. but youre saying as long as i sand it down pretty close to the template line it will route out nice and smooth? oh and thanks, im really glad my scrap build came out nice too Yep the less the better. Less chance of a tear out. I always try to cut within 2mm of the outline on the bandsaw and then route to the template. and learn from me when you aren't routing with the grain. Myka put up a really good link about routing in my thread. Here is the link to my thread Have a read it is well worth it. The router bit sounds fine by the way but if your cutting the whole depth of the guitar make sure your feed rate isn't to fast. Chad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buter Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 Just went on to the MLCS site for the first time and I will be ordering a few bits to try out (destroy). They have a great 'how-to' section that I'll come back to when I get a chance to pick up a few pointers. While I was having a quick peek I found this little video showing a good method for reducing tear out. Cheers Buter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 This might be unnecessary to note, but make sure to add in a block of wood in the neck joint to run the router bit along, since your template doesn't have one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted April 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 This might be unnecessary to note, but make sure to add in a block of wood in the neck joint to run the router bit along, since your template doesn't have one. im not sure what you mean but this is what im going to route like. its going to be set neck (like the top is routed like that, so the neck is just glued in. but instead of glueing it through the body. like jeff did. im just gluing it just to the end of the neck pickup (like prs does) so is that what you were wondering?) Thanks again for the tip though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAI6 Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 This might be unnecessary to note, but make sure to add in a block of wood in the neck joint to run the router bit along, since your template doesn't have one. im not sure what you mean but this is what im going to route like. its going to be set neck He just wants to make sure that you don't route the neck pocket through the whole thickness of the body... Right now your template has no allowance for the wood that should be left at the bottom. That's what the block would be for; stopping you from routing the whole thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted April 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 This might be unnecessary to note, but make sure to add in a block of wood in the neck joint to run the router bit along, since your template doesn't have one. im not sure what you mean but this is what im going to route like. its going to be set neck He just wants to make sure that you don't route the neck pocket through the whole thickness of the body... Right now your template has no allowance for the wood that should be left at the bottom. That's what the block would be for; stopping you from routing the whole thing. ohhhh i see. ok cool thanks for the tip well i got a halfinch template bit, so i was going to use that and go deeper as i needed to. thats good right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted April 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 So i made some progress. i wish i had a lot better tools... or at least a router table and orbital palm sander haha. but regardless it came out like this. (still needs a LOT of sanding. which ill have to do by hand. anyway yeah) so first i took the angle sander and sanded down the wood some more to get closer to the template line. then routed the body to the template. Then i took the 1/4th roundover bit and rounded off the back rounding the back then i took the angle grinder and sanded the back for the stomach curve this is how it turned out (still very rough and a LOT of hand sanding to do) any suggestions on where to smooth it out some more? dont worry im going to make the transitions smooth and very flowing. (what i wouldnt give for a orbital palm sander haha) another pic i chose the DEEP DEEP stomach carve because it feels really really good haha. (i checked its ridiculously comfortable) me checking and because i had to cover up some router blow out i think my bit is getting old. Next i took a cove bit and routed around the whole top me routing And this is what i was left with. i Love the figure on the mahogany on the back it reminds me of a phoenix or a bird flying or something.. i dont know what do you think? haha and dont worry i know the lower horn and middle where the neck is look uneven but thats just router burn making the color dark and making it look un even. you can see the shape is normal from the top you can also see the cove route around the edge of the top. thats going to give me my guideline for the archtop. what sucks is that i didnt stop the cove rout where the neck sits on both sides like the prs. but i guess it will turn out good anyway :-P ill figure something out... or.. i dont know. what do you guys think any ideas? anyway thats where im at now. Next, i got to finish all the hand sanding and smooth the body up. then carve the top. so ill post pics when im done with that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crow Posted April 17, 2009 Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 hello! Why you fought it round the maple top? you do not do the original plastic surgery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted April 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 hello! Why you fought it round the maple top? you do not do the original plastic surgery? im not sure what you mean at all? haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macimalac Posted April 17, 2009 Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 I think Crow meant that after going all around with the roundower bit, it is not possible to carve a PRS style arched top at the neck joint area. You might salvage the body by carving a straight plane from the bridge position to the edge of the maple cap at the neck joint. This is necessary aniway to have a proper body carve for a PRS, as it can be seen in some older threads. For example as I remember there was a nice side wiew picture in the "Blue PRS" thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted April 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 I think Crow meant that after going all around with the roundower bit, it is not possible to carve a PRS style arched top at the neck joint area. You might salvage the body by carving a straight plane from the bridge position to the edge of the maple cap at the neck joint. This is necessary aniway to have a proper body carve for a PRS, as it can be seen in some older threads. For example as I remember there was a nice side wiew picture in the "Blue PRS" thread. yeah thats why i said in my post that i screwed that part up.. im sure it will still work. but look a little different. but ill look for that thread. but if you can, can you link me to it also? Thanks for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Macimalac Posted April 17, 2009 Report Share Posted April 17, 2009 The link: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...20prs&st=30 Look at post #36, it shows the body from the side, the body thickness change toward the neck end can be clearly seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted April 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 update comming soon! archtop comming along awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted May 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 so i got some major progress! the body looks GREAT! im going to post pics for all of you either tonight or tomorrow night. but for now i was going to ask you guys and gals. has anyone used this truss rod? http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Truss_rods/Adj...Truss_Rods.html and if so can you verify its straight 7/32"-wide x 7/16"-deep slot mesurements? also pics would be great! thanks guys! anyway yeah pics soon! and they are AWESOME pics thanks to my amazing girlfriend and her awesome photography :-P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 That is the rod I use on all of my guitars.The dimensions are exact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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