marko_slash Posted June 19, 2009 Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 My friend brought me his neck (squier strat. standard), maple back and fingerboard. I suppose the finish on fingerboard is worn, so it looks pretty vintage now, you know. The color on that spots is grey-green, so I need an advice. I suppose the finish is taken of, I will first sand it to remove discoloration, and then go over with finish. If I put thin coat of Nitro on it, will it again become like this or what? It is pretty urgent, so help please...I don't have any pics right now, but it looks like all other vintage guitar necks. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 19, 2009 Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 Nitro will wear off again quickly. It is not very abrasive resistent. 2-part poly will last better, but in the long run anything you put on there will wear off. I can't tell you how long it will last though, that will come down to how much he plays, the style he is playing and how hard he presses the strings. A lot of bends and the finish will wear faster, a lot of barre chords and it will last longer. You're essentially rubbing steel against plastic, guess which one will win. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted June 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 So how long will nitro last? It will not be just one coat, there will be several, what is estimate time? He doesn't play like an animal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Workingman Posted June 19, 2009 Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 Just a thought, and others here would know better, but if you are doing only a partial refinish, I would think it would be best to go for the same material as the rest of the neck to avoid compatability problems. I suspect that a Squire neck would be some kind of poly, not nitro. A second consideration is how long does your friend want to be without the guitar. Nitro takes a long time to cure compared with poly and if you don't let it cure the finish will be gone in no time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted June 19, 2009 Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 As nicely as possible, I would suggest you not try to do repairs to other peoples' guitars if you're not experienced enough to do it properly to begin with. Just gauging by your question alone, I wouldn't want you working on a neck of mine at all. If it's urgent, it sounds like it means a lot to him, is he OK with you doing a repair you've never done before? As long as he is, no-problem-o. PS, what's so urgent about some finish wearing off of a Maple 'board? That is about the most non-urgent issue I can think of. I'm not trying to bash you, but I'm curious about the urgent issue and your experience level for the job at hand. Personally, I don't even see a job there yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 I agree , you will be opening a can 'o worms. Doing a proper refin on a maple fretboard is going to involve pulling all the frets, sanding down, new poly (or whatever) and then a refret. Is that really worth doing on a Squier neck? The grey green you see might be mould and maybe only a little cleanup is needed. Try some hard rubbing with a rag dabbed in a mild bleach solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted June 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 OK XD This is the situation: This is an old guitar, it is urgent (i really don't know did I say it right, my English is not excellent) because he wants it to be finisher ASAP, so I need to know which finish will cure fastest. Original finish is polyurethane, so I will most likely go with it. It is not my first finish job, I know some stuff already, and it is not some expensive and that stuff guitar either The finish is worn of (I think that's the way to say it xD), and strings were rubbing against bare maple, so it was pretty bad on some places. I've got some pics (taken with mobile phone so they are not great): click on pictures to view in bigger resolution. victim: before: close up: after: close up: So, polyurethane cures faster than nitro? I know it can be coated much thicker, and nitro can't, so it will probably be my final choice, what do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cam Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 what? how'd you sand with the frets on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted June 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 Just avoid the frets and that's it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 That was really not worn that bad at all. Look at what EVH's necks looked like. That might have just cleaned up. The only way I can see to sand that close to the frets with them still on is to sand across the neck. Now you have sanding scratches that are going to be a lot more noticable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted June 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 If this was my guitar, i would left it like that, I like vintage stuff, but it's not, and I don't decide what to do, the customer is Btw, where do you see sanding scratches? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 Any catalyzing (usually means 2-part) finish will dry fastest, but it usually takes professional equipment to shoot it and protect yourself from it. IF you want it to last. If you rush a finish that doesn't like to be rushed, you will be asked to refinish it again in the not-to-distant future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted June 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 (edited) I will use 2 component polyurethane, I went today to buy it, but they ran out of it, so I placed an order I don't have professional equipment, but I do have very decent spray gun, great compressor, good place to work and good mask, that should do the job Edited June 20, 2009 by marko_slash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 As long as you have removed all of the previous finish, it sounds like you're good to go. With a catalyzing finish, you have to be careful of the new finish blistering and reacting badly with the previous finish, depending on what the previous finish was, but other than that, you should be good. Remember to clean your gun as SOON as you're done shooting, catalyzing finishes will not re-dissolve once they're cured, and you can ruin your gun if you don't clean it quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted June 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 (edited) Hey, thanks on advices! I've already masked everything very very good, so I am insured And just one more question, should I cover the frets too? It is not problem, and it may save me from some work later? Edited June 20, 2009 by marko_slash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 It can be done either way, your preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted June 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 It can be done either way, your preference. Cool, thanks very much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 21, 2009 Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 Just make sure by good mask you mean at least a half face respirator with activated charcoal cartridges that are rated for VOC's (Volatile Organic Compounds). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted June 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 Is it so dangerous? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted June 21, 2009 Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 Absolutely yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted June 21, 2009 Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 (edited) Catalyzed poly is loaded with the binder "isocyanate", a proven carcinogenic (cancer causing). No filter will stop isocyanates and air fed system should be used and/or a good vacuum fume hood in your painting area. BTW, it looks like your buddy's neck could use a fret dressing. I see dimples in the last picture. Edited June 21, 2009 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marko_slash Posted June 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 Catalyzed poly is loaded with the binder "isocyanate", a proven carcinogenic (cancer causing). No filter will stop isocyanates and air fed system should be used and/or a good vacuum fume hood in your painting area. BTW, it looks like your buddy's neck could use a fret dressing. I see dimples in the last picture. Now THAT is some scary ****... I see dimples too, a lots of, he doesn't care but who cares for them...carcinogenic is the word that is on my mind now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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