justbecos Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 (edited) Hi I've lurked around here for a while, and as I'm going to be starting a new project soon (as soon as my hand is in one piece it's in a cast at the moment) I thought I should post it. I have only done quite basic flattop bodies before so any help oe comments welcome. I'll be using a bought neck and just making the body. The body is going to be jazzmaster shape, with the top and back radiused sort of like s-series ibanez. As I've been off work I've had a playg with the CAD, not done any 3d modeling before so this took be a while. You can ignore the colours they were just to be able to see whats going on To do this I plan to use a radiusing (is that a real word?) jig along the same lines as I have seen some people here use with a router in a curved sledge on rails. All the routing for neck, pickups etc would be done first. Then the radius, on the first side 4 'posts' would be left one in each corner on the body. This is so the body will stand steady to do the other side. The 3 main things I still have to work out is, how and where to put the jack, the routes for the controls is very tight and I'm not I will get a notmal 3 way tele style switch in there, depth is 1" 1/4 and will I need to recess the bridge to get correct string height and the there will not be any neck angle (hopefully) Specs so far Body 2 piece Korina finish true oil possible with a stain will wait to see the wood in the flesh to decide Neck ? (what I can get on ebay prob strat style maple + rosewood neck) Pickups 2 P90's probable iron gear as i'm on a quite a tight budget on this Bridge Compensated wrap around probably Wilkinson or Gotoh Any comments appreciated. I'm sure there must be something I've missed that will come and bite me on the bottom . Edited March 18, 2010 by justbecos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7even X² Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 I like the design. A thought for the jack. Angled recessed in the lower section of the heel. Seems fitting for the shape you have going. Also it would exit the jack near the strap pin for ease of cable management while playing it. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justbecos Posted March 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 I like the design. A thought for the jack. Angled recessed in the lower section of the heel. Seems fitting for the shape you have going. Also it would exit the jack near the strap pin for ease of cable management while playing it. Mike I'm not sure I understand what you mean. Do you mean a strat type socket into the side of the guitar below the strap pin? If so I like the way you are thinking I have seen this while looking at guitar porn today. This is by Scott French , I like the idea of it if I can get it to work on a slightly curved surface. Having the guitar input socket on the back of the guitar seams a neat and tidy idea. I would place the socket lower down as my strap pin will be lower. With the shape of my guitar and the way I stand and sit while playing it won't get in the way at all and the cable will go straight up to the strap pin which I strap my cable over anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justbecos Posted March 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 Well my wood has arrived. One or two small problems with, it's just a little bit narrower than I thought so will have to adjust the shape slightly as probably won't have quite enough width once it the edges have been prepared and glued. Also there are a couple of beetle holes (I presume that is what they are) and a small mineral streak but they shouldn't be a problem. you can just make out one of the holes and the mineral streak on this pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted March 19, 2010 Report Share Posted March 19, 2010 dont change the design to fit the wood, change the wood to fit the design. would it look better with a strip of a darker wood down the middle... quite probably!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Built Guitars Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 dont change the design to fit the wood, change the wood to fit the design. would it look better with a strip of a darker wood down the middle... quite probably!!! +1 to that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reinhold Posted March 20, 2010 Report Share Posted March 20, 2010 Walnut or wenge would work pretty nicely nicely, maybe one or even a couple dark stripes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justbecos Posted March 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 dont change the design to fit the wood, change the wood to fit the design. would it look better with a strip of a darker wood down the middle... quite probably!!! Hmmm you might be right. I've done a bit more work on the model what do you think? I'm leaning towards the last one, the first will still be quite tight but should be fine for the body width. I do like the second, but I am able to get a nice piece of indian rosewood 1" thick for a good price which is all plained and ready to go and leave enought to do another sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 I dig #3 too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reinhold Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 +1 on number 3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 Number 2 is my favorite, with number 3 close behind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Foreigner Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 Number 2 is my favorite, with number 3 close behind. +1 on that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justbecos Posted March 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 Could someone confirm if my theory and thinking below is correct for working out where to put the compensated wraparound bridge. The adjustment of the bridge for the intonation should always lengthen the string from the given scale length. This is to allow for small area of string at the bridge and nut which can not vibrate, the thicker the string the larger the area that can not vibrate except where changing from plain to round. Therefore if my bridge is correctly compensated having where string breaks on the high e string with the bridge fully forward on its adjustment at the exact scale length (25.5") will work and allow me enough adjustment. please tell me if I'm being stupid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinny Posted March 24, 2010 Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 Im diggin the 2nd one also, has a 60's muscle-car surf thing going for it. -Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B. Aaron Posted March 24, 2010 Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 Could someone confirm if my theory and thinking below is correct for working out where to put the compensated wraparound bridge. The adjustment of the bridge for the intonation should always lengthen the string from the given scale length. This is to allow for small area of string at the bridge and nut which can not vibrate, the thicker the string the larger the area that can not vibrate except where changing from plain to round. Therefore if my bridge is correctly compensated having where string breaks on the high e string with the bridge fully forward on its adjustment at the exact scale length (25.5") will work and allow me enough adjustment. please tell me if I'm being stupid. I'm pretty sure that's not why compensation is necessary (i.e., I don't think that's the physics/mechanics behind it), but in solving for compensation you have the right idea: you'll never need to make your string length shorter than the scale length for proper intonation. You'll probably be safe as long as your high E saddle can get to within a millimeter of the scale length, and your low E can probably safely be 2 mm past the scale length at its forward-most position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PunkRockerLuke Posted March 24, 2010 Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 So essentially its a telemaster( a tele-jazzmaster, you DID put a tele control plate in the design) with a wraparound bridge. and original jazzmaster pickups? Correct me if I'm wrong but the design looks cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Built Guitars Posted March 24, 2010 Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 #2 for sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justbecos Posted March 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 So essentially its a telemaster( a tele-jazzmaster, you DID put a tele control plate in the design) with a wraparound bridge. and original jazzmaster pickups? Correct me if I'm wrong but the design looks cool. Pretty much , but p90's instead of jazzmaster pups, and the body outline is the same but the cross section is different with the top and bottom both being curved (35" radius). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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