RestorationAD Posted April 19, 2010 Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 Wenge Classic V Wenge and Flamed Maple Gibson Neck through 9 piece Wenge/Maple neck. Current plan for the body is 1/4" Wenge top and 1/4" Wenge Back, Wenge center w/Maple Accent lines. Neck : Wenge/Flame Maple Fretboard : Ebony Scale : 25 Frets : 24 Trussrod : Allparts Double Action Body : Wenge/Maple/Wenge Tuners : Hipshot Pickups : Secret project Bridge : Tone Pros TOM/Stop Tailpiece. Electronics : 2 Volume Push/Pull switch and a Kill switch (for now) Not sure where this is going as it may be my last hand built guitar for a while. I bought some 2nd grade flamed acoustic back and sides and decided to use them as accent strips. The decision to use Wenge is an interesting one as I am not sure how much I like it. I like the looks, weight, and resonance. I don't like the dust as it is toxic and the splinters go septic in a matter of hours. I ended up with a 9 piece neck blank. More pictures than are needed for the prepped neck blank. <a href="http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll19/restorationad/classic_v/100_2459.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll19/restorationad/classic_v/100_2459.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /></a> <a href="http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll19/restorationad/classic_v/100_2458.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll19/restorationad/classic_v/100_2458.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /></a> <a href="http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll19/restorationad/classic_v/100_2457.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll19/restorationad/classic_v/100_2457.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /></a> <a href="http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll19/restorationad/classic_v/100_2456.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll19/restorationad/classic_v/100_2456.jpg" border="0" class="linked-image" /></a> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 The body blank is a little more complicated. Originally this was supposed to be a neck through but I am not fond of working on neck through guitars. Also I have yet to build a neck through that I like. So the body blank remains undecided. But at least I will get started on the wings. The idea here was to bookmatch both sides of the guitar so instead of the usual random grain pattern I get something visually appealing. While it is more work it gives me a chance to throw in maple accent lines and pay homage to the Gibson V2 while retaining the classic shape. Sides bookmatched and veneer in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 I have since purchased more clamps so every clamp in the shop is not needed to do the job... however it was bad weather so all this got a trip inside when it was done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 And what remains... The top of the blank pose an issue as I originally intended to have the neck run right through to the tail. However looking at what I have to cut off I may engineer another solution that allows me to keep a significantly large portion of the top. I probably should have planned this better but I felt like I needed to see the wood to get an idea of were I am going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 Starting on the trussrod groove. Got it cut. Then added headstock wings. I really like how invisible the glue lines are on wenge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 Next up is profiling the neck. Since this is a neck through I have to take extra steos to make sure I get it right... Always have the body template around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 So this is a test mock up. I think I am not going this route. Instead the wings will be flipped and this will be the back. I am going to leverage wenge's ability to hide glue lines and have the neck on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 I think this will be a better fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 I bought the Rigid Spindle/Belt Sander. It is nice enough and I think it will do what I need it to. I looks like it is going to make nice volutes and speed shaping the neck. I wanted something to help flatten the backs of headstocks when they are rough. I think it will work for that as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted April 20, 2010 Report Share Posted April 20, 2010 Looking nice already! I like the lines on the neck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2010 Looking nice already! I like the lines on the neck! I love my drum sander! It makes that stuff easy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted April 20, 2010 Report Share Posted April 20, 2010 Drum sander=spindle sander? I agree. My spindle sander (soon likely to be WezV's) is a great tool for shaping in the back profile of the neck behind the volute. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2010 Spindle sander is the new tool. It seems nice enough. I am not sure I love it yet... I use my drum sander to make all the laminates and level... I don't own a big planar and haven't needed one since I bought the Drum Sander. There is no way to do all the stripes in the neck without it. I love my drum sander. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bionic Dave Posted April 21, 2010 Report Share Posted April 21, 2010 You know what I think about this build Buddie WICKED Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuffinPunch Posted April 21, 2010 Report Share Posted April 21, 2010 (edited) Really like the way this build is coming together. Nice wood combination. Just out of curiosity, is there some kind of structural advantage to having a big volute, or is it just a preference thing? I typically prefer a flat one. Probably because Ive been playing on Wizard necks for so long, but I figured volutes like this were derived mainly from Fender style necks where there is no HS angle. I dont know, which is why im asking. Im relatively new to this, but it seems kind of redundant if it adds no structural advantage, in which case doing it simply out of preference is completely acceptable. Just thought you guys would probably know... Edited April 21, 2010 by MuffinPunch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2010 Really like the way this build is coming together. Nice wood combination. Just out of curiosity, is there some kind of structural advantage to having a big volute, or is it just a preference thing? I typically prefer a flat one. Probably because Ive been playing on Wizard necks for so long, but I figured volutes like this were derived mainly from Fender style necks where there is no HS angle. I dont know, which is why im asking. Im relatively new to this, but it seems kind of redundant if it adds no structural advantage, in which case doing it simply out of preference is completely acceptable. Just thought you guys would probably know... The Volute will not be that big... what you see there is a rough cut with my "spindle sander". This guitar will have a more Gibson sized volute. from the site FlyingVintage "Gibson instituted volutes beginning in 1970 and they were increased in size until they were dropped in 1981. It is interesting to note that guitar makers through the years have imitated the styling and features of competitors quite often. Guild used a volute on their archtop guitars during the 1960s. The volute is an added wood contour at the bottom and back of the guitar headstock." According to Benedetto structurally there is really no reason for a volute. He even goes as far as to say that they adversely effect resonance. I was doing tapered headstocks for a while like Benedetto suggests in his book but I can not tell you they are better than anything else. I would say that I like the look of a volute on Gibson style guitars and like a plain neck on RG style guitars. Every guitar I build sounds so different from the last there is no way for me to tell about resonance and sound. A volute does give a little extra wood under the trussrod nut area. A Fender neck does not have a volute. And the headstock has no angle. I would liken it to a Boat Oar with strings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuffinPunch Posted April 21, 2010 Report Share Posted April 21, 2010 (edited) A Fender neck does not have a volute. And the headstock has no angle. I would liken it to a Boat Oar with strings. I was referring to the shape made where the neck transitions into the HS on a vintage Strat. If that were to be bent at a 11-13º angle, I imagine the result would look very much like the Gibson style volute from the early 70s you mentioned. Very insightful info there. Thank you for that. Also, I imagine that retaining a significant amount of wood for a volute could make it difficult to fit a locking nut... Edited April 21, 2010 by MuffinPunch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2010 I was referring to the shape made where the neck transitions into the HS on a vintage Strat. If that were to be bent at a 11-13º angle, I imagine the result would look very much like the Gibson style volute from the early 70s you mentioned. Very insightful info there. Thank you for that. Also, I imagine that retaining a significant amount of wood for a volute could make it difficult to fit a locking nut... If they bent vintage Strat headstocks at 11-13º they would be less useful for paddling a canoe. All joking aside I would say they evolved separately. The Strat shape was a result of a one piece neck designed to be manufactured by a machine yet remain comfortable. Martin specifically made a diamond shaped volute on their necks for years. As for the locking nut. I personally do not run the bolts through the neck anymore. It is overkill and it weakens the weakest part of a neck. Not a good structural idea. I use 2 very small stainless taper heads to attach locking nuts. Usually the string pressure will hold them in place and you just need to keep them from slipping. I have even epoxied them down instead of screwing them. It seems really retarded to run 2 screws all the way through a neck to hold down something that has all that pressure on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 I decided to cut an angled back plate rather than butchering up the neck blank. Did this on the drum sander attached to another neck blank. It worked well enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2010 Glued some small spacers in and the angled backplate. When I was cleaning up I broke the corner off the headplate...grrr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 Wenge headstock plate with a maple strip underneath. Makes a nice line on the side. I am still trying to decide if this is it for the headstock or I do a raised center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 Martin specifically made a diamond shaped volute on their necks for years. The diamond-shaped volute is a hangover from old Spanish builds and possibly before, where glues just weren't as good as their modern equivalents. The diamond comes from a V-joint which produces a larger glueing surface for attaching separate headstocks. I would love to attempt an angled headstock with a V-joint just from the craftsman's point of view! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bionic Dave Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 Love the headstock Brett. looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted April 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 Martin specifically made a diamond shaped volute on their necks for years. The diamond-shaped volute is a hangover from old Spanish builds and possibly before, where glues just weren't as good as their modern equivalents. The diamond comes from a V-joint which produces a larger glueing surface for attaching separate headstocks. I would love to attempt an angled headstock with a V-joint just from the craftsman's point of view! Thanks for reminding me... I haven't seen a V joint in years (come to think of it only ever seen one in person). I used to study older construction methods more than I do now. The V Joint would be awesome thing to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2010 So I get asked about neck angles a lot. I thought I would put together how I did the neck angle for the V. First up mark the end of the fretboard. Then lay the fretboard on the neck where it will be set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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