Jackson Dk2m Floyd To Hardtail And Refinish.

[Duke]

So I have undertaken a difficult task. Attached are pictures of my progress thus far. I have filled the trem cavity with an alder block and filler. Hipshot bridge has been installed...I'm uncertain if it is aligned properly, I know the scale length is correct but I'm worried that it might be crooked. I will definitely be needing a string tree for the top two high strings...

I really need some advice on this, it's becoming extremely discouraging and I'm afraid I've put my money into a sinking ship.

[killemall8]

... Um... what do you mean not aligned? If the outer strings are an equal distance from teh edge of the fretboard, then its aligned. why do you need to ask us that? its hard to tell from teh pics.

[Duke]

... Um... what do you mean not aligned? If the outer strings are an equal distance from teh edge of the fretboard, then its aligned. why do you need to ask us that? its hard to tell from teh pics.

Why do I need to ask? Because I'm trying to make sure I don't **** things up. What is it, a crime?

I am worried about it being very slightly misaligned in the horizontal plane...I know it's *basically* correct vertically.

[killemall8]

I mean, the answer is right in front of you, that is why i was wondering why you have to ask... calm down there.

ther are only 2 ways for it to be aligned.. Scale length, and left and right, which affects the string alignment. If you look at teh guitar, and the strings are the same distance from teh outside of the fretboard, like i said int eh first post, then it is aligned.. thats all there is too it.

[WezV]

I mean, the answer is right in front of you, that is why i was wondering why you have to ask... calm down there.

ther are only 2 ways for it to be aligned.. Scale length, and left and right, which affects the string alignment. If you look at teh guitar, and the strings are the same distance from teh outside of the fretboard, like i said int eh first post, then it is aligned.. thats all there is too it.

dont forget the 3rd dimension kill

he says the scale length is on, we can see its centered right... so is he talking about bridge height?

hard to see the problem in the pics, but it looks like the bridge is set quite high and still giving very low action... if its too low then the simplest solution is to make a thin wooden shim to go under the bridge, but obviously it can also be done be altering the neck pocket/heel

[Muzz]

Hey Duke, I can certainly see the irony here I have been working away at putting a floyd cavity in, while you have been filling yours up

The strings do seem to be sitting low on the neck, is that the problem? Whatever the issue, don't worry, everything can be fixed.

[Duke]

Yeah, the bridge height issue is something that has been brought up. The action is still quite high though right now, because I have the saddles set high. I may have to route the neck pocket slightly, but if I can get good action with the way it is, should I just leave it?

[Narcissism]

When routing the neck pocket, be aware of the length of your screws, as it would suck to see them pop out of that nice fretboard. I'm not accusing you of forgetting, I just thought i'd throw it out there as its a common mistake.

As far as your action goes, I say if it ain't broke, don't fix it. But if you do want to fix it up, I would glue a piece of similar wood to your plug and sand it so it looks like a contoured rise.

Good luck!

[Duke]

When routing the neck pocket, be aware of the length of your screws, as it would suck to see them pop out of that nice fretboard. I'm not accusing you of forgetting, I just thought i'd throw it out there as its a common mistake.

As far as your action goes, I say if it ain't broke, don't fix it. But if you do want to fix it up, I would glue a piece of similar wood to your plug and sand it so it looks like a contoured rise.

Good luck!

You know come to think of it, hipshot makes a bridge that sits slightly higher (.175 vs .125) than the normal one. I should have just gotten this one.

http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?...etail&p=167

[HuntinDoug]

If the bridge needs raised, top the body with a thin top wood. It will cover the plugs, and give the guitar a new look.

[Duke]

If the bridge needs raised, top the body with a thin top wood. It will cover the plugs, and give the guitar a new look.

I just talked to hipshot and they're going to let me do the bridge exchange. This should definitely make my life easier.

Next thing on the agenda is to fill the rear trem cavity. I originally didn't want to do this, but I think it will look better in the end.

[Duke]

Routed the back trem cavity today. Will fill once I get another block of alder.

Before:

After:

[killemall8]

Nice. What color is it going to be?

[Duke]

Nice. What color is it going to be?

Dunno, either dark green or dark blue. What would you pick?

[killemall8]

I love both. It would look cool with a dark metallic green.

[Woodenspoke]

I try not to get involved with these posts but you sparked some interest.

First your rear trem route seems shy of the mark. In order to get a solid insert it should ideally be touching the wood on the top. To me it looks like you left a space and this a gap. This is not a good idea plus its a week spot Possibly use epoxy to fill this space as well as gluing in the insert.

As far as the strings go there are several things you look for.

Since its not a fitted neck you are working from an n existing cavity. So as it looks like you have done already two parallel lines down the side of the neck onto the body will allow you to create a centerline on the body for pickups and the bridge. I most cases it is not the exact centerline of the body blank.

The string spacing is determined by the nut spacing and the saddle spread. Ideally you will wind up with strings that are equal distance between each other and the outer E strings will be an equal distance away from the edge of the FB all they way down the neck. In your first picture the nut looks like its way off center?

Hopefully you are making your own nut and using a bridge with the proper spacing. Most bridges can be tweaked buy adding slots to adjust the string spacing. But this is not always possible on every bridge. A good starting point is 1/8" string distance from the edge. But again it can be closer depending on what you like. Dont expect it to be perfect. If it looks close its close enough. Also realize some of these necks can be cocked from side to side to adjust for the lower string position relative to the neck centerline. This has been mentioned before. So removing the neck and then putting it back on may require an adjustment. Even it it was setup before.

[Duke]

Yeah, the nut is off center because the high strings are pulling it in that direction. It is a pre-made nut but I will be modifying it completely so it will work. It just needs to be shaved down on the bottom and the sides and it should be fine.

I drew my parallel lines based on the neck and used one of those super precise gauges to find the centerline.

I will be filling/sanding the trem route so it is flat. I really think I can make this work now, I just need to pay attention to the details.

[guitarkid4143]

I always wanted one of those, and good luck on your build/mod.

[Duke]

Currently waiting for the epoxy to dry...I hope it does eventually. Got a nice block of mahogany to stick in the trem cavity.

[Duke]

Filled the trem pocket, when I re-drilled the string holes the wood putty chipped on the back. Going to cover it in Epoxy and sand flush one more time, no big deal.

I set-up the guitar and it plays well! New problem though...it is barely intonating, 3 of the strings are still sharp and their saddles are all the way back...need to fill the holes and redrill now, place the bridge back just a bit. I'm going to redo all the measurements...

Also, I filed down a graphtec nut and its working, but I had to glue it in place. The glue isn't holding as well as I thought it would. I am thinking of just putting the unlocked floyd nut there instead, it will look better anyway.

[Duke]

So I got the floyd nut back, and it worked out great. I had to drill for the bridge 4 times before I could get it to intonate properly...the wood putty was sagging and causing the bridge to move, so I routed all of that crap out and put some crazy hard epoxy in. It seriously would've been easier for me to just get a replacement body, lol.

But anyway, I'm hoping it will remain stable. I just filled in some tiny little cracks with the putty, and after that dries I'm going to sand it all flush and then start sanding the body with the higher grit stuff...

[Duke]

So to update, FINALLY I'm getting slightly closer to paint time. I have most of it sanded down to 320 grit, and I drilled for my string ferrules on the back today. Will get pics tonight.

Now, I have some questions. After I sand down to 320 grit, what next? Is it necessary to wet sand, or use grain filler? I won't have access to spray guns or a spray booth, I'll be using spray cans. In the spray can form, what would be the most ideal types of primer and paint?

Also, when I spray, is it necessary to plug up the holes for the bridge so they don't fill with paint?

Edited July 22, 2010 by Duke

[decadentjon]

you wont be wet sanding if if you're down to bare wood. Wet sanding comes before buffing the final finish (or maybe a bit in between coats to get it leveled). If you're doing a solid colour i would probably sand to about 320, grain fill, sand it back to maybe 400grit. start spraying.

i couldn't really recommend specific brands of primer/paint outside of Australia. i'm not sure where you are based or what finish you are going for. With those details i'm sure someone can give some advice.

If i were you i'd leave it strung up to tension for a couple days to see if your epoxy will hold before spending a bunch of time making a nice finish.

[killemall8]

Its alder, you dont need to grainfill. Grainfilling is only needed for open pored woods, like mahogany, walnut, ect.

[yorgo]

IS grain filling the same as using sanding sealer?