RestorationAD Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 ALLPARTS rods are a bit rough when I get them so I clean up the ends on my diamond sharpener. Like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Trussrod installed. Using a plexi template allows me to see the lines for centering. However I don't route against the plexi templates. The router bearing gets hot, melts the plexi, and at best ruins the template - at worst it ruins the template and the piece. I always make router templates from 2 pieces of 1/4" hardboard glued together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 After bandsawing I sand the edges further so that the router bit doesn't have to cut more than 1/2 the cutters on the bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Here is a close up of the depth the router actually cuts away. Remember not to hit the template. And done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Heasdstock wings glued on. Sorry about the blurry photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 So the stripes in the myrtle were outside the body. I really thought they needed to run the length of the body into the horns. Surgery time. Lay the body on the top and move the pieces together until the stripes are on the horns. Then I mark the new temporary center line at the front and back of the top. These marks are just a guide as I am not sure they are centered. Using the first mark I made I measure in equal amounts on each side at the top and put a mark. Then I measure down from the back of the top the same distance on each piece (trying to come close to the temp marks). Then use a straight edge to draw a straight line through the marks on the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Next I test the new lines by lining them up and setting the body on the top. After the test I cut the lines on the band saw and use the jointer to straighten them out. Clamp the top with titebond and set it aside. I only leave it clamped a few hours as we are assembling the whole body today while the wood is still fresh from the sander. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Next is the cocobolo veneer. Since I want this all glued up today while the pieces are fresh sanded I am using CA to join the cocobolo veneer. Lay the pieces on a flat surface and lightly clamp them together. Then take CA and hit the seems... yes if you forgot to put wax paper under it it will be glued to your board. Hit it on the edge carefully with a dead blow hammer and it should come loose. After a few minutes clean up the seems with a scraper. Then we trim it close (within 3/16" or so) to the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 After trimming up the top (carefully as the glue is not cured yet) we make our sandwich. Using titebond and covering both surfaces you have to move quick because of the short open time. I use spring clamps to hold it together temporarily while I am getting the big clamps out. It takes a long time but it gives much better results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Nice job of making the best use of that myrtle. That's tricky business as if you don't take the same amount off both pieces you lose your bookmatch. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
six_stringer Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 "CNC... hmmm I want one... but not this year. This year I am buying a new belt sander, bigger drum sander, and a new Bandsaw." You build some really nice guitar's and I aspire to build with the same quality as you. Also, thanks for documenting all of these builds. I have been thinking about getting a Jet 16-32 drum sander for some time and saw that you had the 10-20. I have wanted the larger drum sander for some time but have been short on cash. I would use it for everything I could but mainly for whole bodies and glued up book matched tops. If I may ask, what is your main reason for getting a bigger drum sander? Have you decided on a particular model as a replacement for the 10-20? Also, have you had any problems with that brand drum sander? I ask because I had a chance to get a used 10-20 at half the price of a new one some time ago but decided to hold out until I could afford the 16-32 model. Thanks, Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 "CNC... hmmm I want one... but not this year. This year I am buying a new belt sander, bigger drum sander, and a new Bandsaw." You build some really nice guitar's and I aspire to build with the same quality as you. Also, thanks for documenting all of these builds. You are welcome. I hope some of the stuff I write up helps. When I started there was no free info like there is now. I was lucky enough to apprenticed under a master luthier for a few years. I am now paying it back (maybe even a book to boot). I have been thinking about getting a Jet 16-32 drum sander for some time and saw that you had the 10-20. I have wanted the larger drum sander for some time but have been short on cash. I would use it for everything I could but mainly for whole bodies and glued up book matched tops. If I may ask, what is your main reason for getting a bigger drum sander? Have you decided on a particular model as a replacement for the 10-20? Also, have you had any problems with that brand drum sander? I ask because I had a chance to get a used 10-20 at half the price of a new one some time ago but decided to hold out until I could afford the 16-32 model. Thanks, Jeff Save your money and buy the 16-32. Nothing wrong with the 10-20 I got it for a mere 300.00 on craiglist. The Jet 16-32 (or bigger) is what I am going to buy. I love my 10-20 but my guitars are 12.75" wide. The open end doesn't work as well as you think it would. I just want to run a full body through the sander and glue the top on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 (edited) Nice job of making the best use of that myrtle. That's tricky business as if you don't take the same amount off both pieces you lose your bookmatch. SR You know it... serious pucker factor when you go cutting a $100.00 top up. I learned my lesson on the Hand of Doom (I wasted a large amount of Bocote to get that fretboard). Never be afraid to sacrifice for the good of the instrument. I am always trying to build a masterpiece. I leave guitar building to the major manufacturers. Conserve wood whenever possible. But know when to sacrifice. Edited February 27, 2011 by RestorationAD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Headstock plate. I need to join the headplate to make one big enough. Cutting down the top really limits the size of the scraps. This piece might end up as the trussrod cover. I forgot to get photos of the actual headplate. I clamp them and hit the seam with CA then run it through the drum sander. Tape on the face to protect it, ivory soap on the clamping caul, and quite a few clamps are all that is needed. I can't wait to get a vacuum press. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Out of the clamps and then to the bandsaw to clean up the overhang. Then we clean up the sides with the spindle sander and some 80 grit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 The blank is still a little thick at 38mm so I trim a few mm off the back and flatten the top. Weight is pretty good and will get better when I carve it. A look at the back of the body Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 A look at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 A look at the veneer. I think I am going to carve into the veneer on this one (ala Diablo/RedWitch). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 I like it like this... almost to bad it is getting carved up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Out in the sun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 That top rocks! I love the cocobolo layer too. I came very close to putting a maple layer in mine, but decided there's enough work already to thin that thick sucker down. I have been thinking the back is pretty plain on this one but judging from the way the sides cleaned up, that may not be the case at all. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 That top rocks! I love the cocobolo layer too. I came very close to putting a maple layer in mine, but decided there's enough work already to thin that thick sucker down. I have been thinking the back is pretty plain on this one but judging from the way the sides cleaned up, that may not be the case at all. SR The back is pretty plain on this one... the cool thing is that you can not see the joint. Looks like one piece until you look at the bottom bout endgrain. This one is going to be about the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 A picture of some crazy figure from the fretboard. The challenge is to get as much of this in the board as I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 This should be the last passes for my custom made 16 inch radius router bit. I am replacing it with a Grizzly fretboard sander thing...custom conical radii here we come. I use double sided tape to hold the fretboards to a square 4x4. The center line lets me flip the board nad make a second pass without moving the fretboard. While this works very well it is not as accurate as I like and still leaves plenty of hand sanding at the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 Flip the whole thing and do the other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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