RestorationAD Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 S906 #3 Korina/Cocobolo neck attached to a super thin Korina/Figured Myrtle topped body with Hipshot parts and Diablo pickups. Neck : Korina/Cocobolo Fretboard : Cocobolo Scale : 25.5 Frets : 24 Trussrod : ALLPARTS Body : Korina/Flamed Myrtle(33mm) Tuners : Hipshot Pickups : Diablo Humbuckers Bridge : Hipshot Electronics : 1 Push/pull Lets start with the neck lamination. I have 3 pieces of 5/4 Limba 36" x 1.5" x 1.25" (or 5/4) grain oriented to create a quartersawn blank. I have 2 pieces of cocobolo 36"+ x 1.5" x .187" that make up the detail stripes. They are cut from the same board as the fretboard. Quick word about wood conservation here. The original board was 48" x 9.5" x 5/4" flatsawn. Each half of the body only requires 6.5" that left me about 3 inches to use for the neck blank. By cutting the strips from the board before cutting the body blanks out I ended up with 2 bodies and a neck instead of just 2 bodies and some 18" long scrap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 This build gets a headstock scarf. For a headstock scarf I use a blank that is roughly 36" x 2.75" (for 6 string) x 1.5". I end up with some waste on this style scarf but it keeps the joint hidden under a head plate and makes for a really nice looking neck. After the blank comes out of the clamps it is pretty messy. So I run one side on the jointer to make it flat. It doesn't have to be perfect just flat. The jointer has a wonderful habit of tear-out on figured wood so I try to make really shallow passes. Next we move to the drum sander and some 60 grit to finish squaring and cleaning up. This step is very important because the top side becomes the surface we glue the fretboard to. It must be true. First thing after squaring is to mark out the neck. Using my template I mark the breakpoint for the headstock, the nut, the 24th fret, and the end of the blank. Next I mark the 14 degree headstock angle, usually I just use my template but I thought I would check to make sure my template is 14 degree and snap a shot while I was at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Now that we have a mark it is off to the band saw. Since other part of the headstock comes off the end we cut off we need to be pretty close to the line. Now is time for the scarf cut. I use the radial arm saw with a really nice fine kerf freud saw blade. I covered the jig I use for holding the neck in another thread somewhere... Always use plastic clamps because at the end of the cut the blade gets close to the clamp. I am going to make a new jig at some point that removes this potential catastrophe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 This blade happens to be a bit dull... time to drop some cash on a new one. Because I had some burn I clean up the cut with a sanding block and some 80 grit. I make my sanding blocks with the jointer and the drum sander out of scraps so I know they are square and true. I never use anything that has foam backing or rubber for truing joints. Now on to the neck blank itself. I really don't have to cut the face of this because I can use the belt sander to clean it up when it is done. But if I do cut it now I can save work later so that is what we will do. While it is a clean cut I leave some overhang to ensure I can sand it all flat with no gaps later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 End results are a headstock scarf. Check the lines by laying the blank on a flat surface... the old bench is not flat so I moved it to the Radial Arm saw table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 Gluing up a headstock scarf is pretty easy. I picked this trick up from Setch (haven't seen you around in a while). After the neck is properly lined I use a 2" piece of strapping tape on the face of the headstock. This stops the creep that happens as you clamp it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 First clamp with the quick clamps to get it to tach up. Then get out a screw clamp and put pressure right at the most important part of the joint (close to the face of the blank). Then I reposition the quick clamps around to get even pressure on all sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae3 Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 Tape idea is neat. Can't wait untill I try my hand at a neck, I don't have a jointer though... You reckon I can still do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 Tape idea is neat. Can't wait untill I try my hand at a neck, I don't have a jointer though... You reckon I can still do it? I don't really need a jointer to build a neck. I just use it to square the bottom of the blank. I use the drum sander for the bulk of the work. Now Setch was the guy I first saw use the tape... He used to build everything with hand tools. I used to use a router jig for a while... hate routers though (necessary evil). As for the scarf... I have a Japanese Ryoba that I use a lot. It would cut a scarf without any issues. A nice Jack Plane and a sanding block is all you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Out of the clamps and into the bandsaw. Quick look at profiling a headstock. I used to taper my headstocks and sometimes I still do (I do it by hand with a sanding block). Using the fence on the bandsaw leaves me with better results. No accidents... and the surface that is left is easy to clean up. First cut is about .675" thick (yes I run a thicker headstock than most). I cut right up to the beginning of the volute. I still have the 3/8" blade in the band saw so it is not going to make a pretty curve so we just don't even try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Now take the Ryoba and cut the scrap free. If you push on the piece as you saw down it will snap right as you cut through. Stop sawing as soon as that happens and you won't gouge up the back of the headstock. Ok later in the afternoon I spent an hour fixing the bandsaw and putting the 1/4" blade in. To test the new setup I profile the rest of the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 First cut is about .675" thick (yes I run a thicker headstock than most). I cut right up to the beginning of the volute. I still have the 3/8" blade in the band saw so it is not going to make a pretty curve so we just don't even try it. Aww where's your sense of adventure? A sharp palm gouge will clean up those relief cut ridges in no time. I picked up a new 1/4" blade myself this weekend Now take the Ryoba and cut the scrap free. If you push on the piece as you saw down it will snap right as you cut through. Stop sawing as soon as that happens and you won't gouge up the back of the headstock. Nice tip. This is stuff one can use. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Aww where's your sense of adventure? A sharp palm gouge will clean up those relief cut ridges in no time. I picked up a new 1/4" blade myself this weekend Don't crowd my gig and I won't crowd yours I have done some carving in my time...I have the scars to prove it. Those little spoon shaped things you use are friggin dangerous. However, I am seriously contemplating a Mr. Scary replica this year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Aww where's your sense of adventure? A sharp palm gouge will clean up those relief cut ridges in no time. I picked up a new 1/4" blade myself this weekend Don't crowd my gig and I won't crowd yours I have done some carving in my time...I have the scars to prove it. Those little spoon shaped things you use are friggin dangerous. However, I am seriously contemplating a Mr. Scary replica this year. What's a Mr. Scary? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Aww where's your sense of adventure? A sharp palm gouge will clean up those relief cut ridges in no time. I picked up a new 1/4" blade myself this weekend Don't crowd my gig and I won't crowd yours I have done some carving in my time...I have the scars to prove it. Those little spoon shaped things you use are friggin dangerous. However, I am seriously contemplating a Mr. Scary replica this year. What's a Mr. Scary? SR Guitar done by J Frog. Actually Lynch named the guitar Mom. (I want to copy this one..) The real Mr. Scary is actually just an old San Dimas with spray paint, grafitti, lcd clock, and generally beaten... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 That's going to require a few of those spoon shaped things....unless you have a CNC in the back corner of your garage. Looks like fun. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 That's going to require a few of those spoon shaped things....unless you have a CNC in the back corner of your garage. Looks like fun. SR CNC... hmmm I want one... but not this year. This year I am buying a new belt sander, bigger drum sander, and a new Bandsaw. Seriously... I have carved tons of those things when I was young with a dremel a few carver bits. I will try and dig up some photos... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 Top is here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 That's beautiful. Oregon Wildwoods? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 That's beautiful. Oregon Wildwoods? SR Yes they are my emergency last minute I need a top supplier. I try to find crazy billets from other places but when I need a winner or Myrtle (Oregon WW is the best place to get Myrtle) that is where I go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adrock1740 Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 That's beautiful. Oregon Wildwoods? SR Yes they are my emergency last minute I need a top supplier. I try to find crazy billets from other places but when I need a winner or Myrtle (Oregon WW is the best place to get Myrtle) that is where I go. seriously, their myrtle selection is fantastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 Body shots... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 The plan is to add a layer of cocobollo under the myrtle top and headplate. Finding a really wide piece of cocobollo is expensive so I am going to make a 3 part veneer. It will be covered everywhere except the edges so it is not an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Routing trussrod channel. First I set the length of the rod and transfer the line around to the back of the neck. I use a router table and fence setup with a 1/4" spiral down cut bit. Since the neck blank goes face down I use a guide line on the fence to tell me when to stop. Line up the line on the neck with the line on the fence and you are done (the line on the fence is center of the bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 After routing I clean up the end of the trussrod route with a 1/4" chisel. I then round the headstock end with a 1/4" rasp chucked in a battery drill. I deepen the slot a bit at the end and headstock. This allows the trussrod to fit very snug (make sure it does not bind). When done right the only way to get the rod in is to slide it in from the headstock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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