padbug Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 I'm approaching a snag with my build when it comes to routing the truss rod cavity. I have the stewmac 18" allen nut rod, building an lp double cut with the body finishing at the 19th fret. Where do I start and finish the route on the neck? Does the brass block at the adjustable end rest under the nut? I know that I need room to adjust the rod under the cover and that the rod should support as much of the neck as possible, but I cannot find a definite answer and don't want to charge into my first neck all willy nilly. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padbug Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Anybody? The way I think I have it is to take the length of the truss rod, minus the adjustable nut, and route a channel that length from the edge of the headstock angle. Is this correct, or should the truss rod be positioned a little further towards the body? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=45636&st=0 Read this...RAD does it the same way I do...except he does it more often Does the brass block at the adjustable end rest under the nut? Yes...with some qualifications...but in your case,yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 Anybody? The way I think I have it is to take the length of the truss rod, minus the adjustable nut, and route a channel that length from the edge of the headstock angle. Is this correct, or should the truss rod be positioned a little further towards the body? You want to be able to control the relief of the neck between the 18th fret and the nut so that is where your rod goes. It is not the end of the world if you miss by a mm or 2. Get your neck blank ready. Then lay the rod on the neck blank so the trussrod nut is were you want it. In most cases the end of the adjuster nut will be about 3/16" back from the face of the headstock when you are done. Mark the back of the rod and route your channel a mm past the mark. On ALLPARTS trussrods you can move them back further if you wish because they don't have the chunk of brass at the end. Try to keep the big bulky brass part in the volute and not in the neck. I do not like the Stew Mac rod cause it is not conducive to thin necks and it is heavy. If you put the adjuster headstock side be very careful with the positioning... if it ends up in the middle of the first fret it is going to be hard to make a nice thin neck. Now if you are making a classic LP style neck then it is fine. Take measurements as you go and write them down. You need to know the depth of the rod at the nut, 12th, and end (usually 18th) frets. This is so you don't accidentally cut through when shaping the neck. If you notice when I do a rod I use the "neck monster" to get the profile of the neck within 1/8" of the final profile and I know while I am shaping to not take any wood from right above the trussrod. I cover it in almost every build thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padbug Posted August 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 Thank you very much for the pointers, guys. You've answered a lot of questions. I'll be sure to let you know how it comes out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_B Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 Thank you very much for the pointers, guys. You've answered a lot of questions. I'll be sure to let you know how it comes out! I just received my truss rod from LMII for my first build, so this information is timely for me as well. Thanks everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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