westhemann Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 But as for your picture. I plan on leaving the whole center of the guitar untouched for the trem and pickups and such. Is this a completely different style? I don't know...I think if there is no room for air to move in and out the effect is mostly just on the weight of the guitar,and the effect on sound seems to be caused by less mass,not the chambers themselves...but that is just my opinion,and like i said you won't get definitive answers,as the sound is subjective to so many variables,not the least of which is the guy listening... On my Gibsons,the ones with the most acoustic volumes and the "airiest" tones seem to have large routs right through the middle under the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xadioriderx Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 yeah it wont be any louder, at least not noticeably so. i hollowed the heck out of my last 2 builds and theyre both just as quiet as my artcore, which is just as quiet as the strat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted October 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 yeah it wont be any louder, at least not noticeably so. i hollowed the heck out of my last 2 builds and theyre both just as quiet as my artcore, which is just as quiet as the strat good to know. I was just wondering on this cause I heard it affects feedback and sustain and such. Is there a way you can test some of those qualities? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 I heard it affects feedback and sustain and such. It can,but it doesn't always. Is there a way you can test some of those qualities? Only by building some guitars and trying it out for yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xadioriderx Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 i could be wrong, but i dont see much feedback coming from anything without a soundhole. e-coustics feedback badly. my artcore only feeds back because the nickle pup covers arent waxed to it, so its those that feedback, not the body. you shouldnt have an issue on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 If you have the "chambers" connecting the pickup cavities with the control cavities(as I do in my pics),then it acts much like a "soundhole" and can cause unwanted noise if the cavities are not shielded well and if the pickups aren't properly properly potted....If the "chambers" are not connected to the electronics in any way,I can't see it doing anything at all. I think potted is the right term there..I am tired and drinky right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpm99 Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Feedback is caused when the sound from the guitar, amplified through a speaker or amp, causes additional resonance in the guitar, which leads to more vibration in the strings, hence more sound from the speaker, hence more resonance again in the guitar, and so forth. Feedback is a point at which the vibration the guitar is picking up resulting from speaker sound takes over and creates a sound loop. At least that's how I understand it. The more resonant a guitar is, the more likely feedback is to occur. An acoustic guitar is so resonant that it can produce enough sound to fill a room with no external amplification. That's why it has so many feedback issues. In theory, the louder your guitar is acoustically, the more likely it is to produce feedback. A soundhole creates an effect called Helmholtz Resonance. It turns the guitar into a sort of bellows, where the air moving in and out of the guitar causes the top to move, creating resonance, and therefore sound. Without airflow, Helmholtz Resonance cannot occur. That doesn't mean, however, that feedback is impossible, as the only thing required is sufficient resonance of any type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 awesome info guys thanks Looks Like I'll be building very soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Feedback is caused when the sound from the guitar, amplified through a speaker or amp, causes additional resonance in the guitar, which leads to more vibration in the strings, hence more sound from the speaker, hence more resonance again in the guitar, and so forth. Feedback is a point at which the vibration the guitar is picking up resulting from speaker sound takes over and creates a sound loop. At least that's how I understand it. pretty much. in acoustics its bad and harder to control, but the feedback loop you describe is awesomely musical in electrics... most players standing facing a full 100w stack on full seem very happy with it! Good Feedback the problems all occur in that "causes additional resonance in the guitar" bit. when things like pickup windings/covers or any other metal part which will be in the pickups magnetic field start vibrating you can get the non musical screech of Bad Feedback Something like a 335 (pretty much hollow except for a centre block) works quite well when trying to get a nice feedback from standing in front of the amp - but as soon as you loose that centre block and go a bit more hollow it can get nasty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 (edited) So this was the plan. But now that I sharpied it... it looks like over kill haha... The brown is where the back carve will interfere with the chamber (unless I only routed it to 1/2") The black is where I would chamber it deeper for sure. Any Ideas? Thoughts? Suggestions for tones and or if I should or shouldn't do this? Thanks everyone! You are really helping me plan this all the way through for the best results Edited October 12, 2011 by Pestvic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightninMike Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 (edited) do the belly cut first.... then take a straight edge and measure down into the cut to locate it's depth....you now know how much you have to raise the router to keep the same dimensions and keep a consistent back measure several times and try it on a scrap piece to set yourself up to succeed also, your outer edge (wall) is thicker on the treble side than the bass side.... really no need to keep it that thick Edited October 12, 2011 by LightninMike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xadioriderx Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 definitely do contours first. and that chambering isnt overkill. this is what i do: as long as it doesnt end up neck heavy, and mine didnt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpm99 Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 definitely do contours first. and that chambering isnt overkill. this is what i do: as long as it doesnt end up neck heavy, and mine didnt Y'know, I wouldn't mind seeing a Tele like that without a front or back added. Just big holes. You could play it in church, since it's so holy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted October 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 do the belly cut first.... then take a straight edge and measure down into the cut to locate it's depth....you now know how much you have to raise the router to keep the same dimensions and keep a consistent back measure several times and try it on a scrap piece to set yourself up to succeed also, your outer edge (wall) is thicker on the treble side than the bass side.... really no need to keep it that thick Thats what I Had in mind, which is why I had said "(unless I only routed it to 1/2")" cause thats what I measured for the back carve. Also, The Treble side is that thick cause its the control cavity. I dont need it bigger than where the controls end and what not :-P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightninMike Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 was this the Holy kinda guitar you were thinking about dpm99?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpm99 Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 was this the Holy kinda guitar you were thinking about dpm99?? Yeah. I'd bring that one to church. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted October 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 Truss rod channel routed Tip I learned here on the board. Add Hot Glue in the Truss rod channel and then put the truss rod in right away so it sits nicely in the channel. This keeps it snug and prevents the truss rod from rattling if the channel isnt perfectly tight. My first channel wasn't and rattled. I dont have that problem this time but I added it anyway (First guitar I made the two way truss rod rattled.) Installed, PERFECT fit haha forgot to take pics (ill get some in the morning) but I routed out the chambers and control cavity on the body too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 That wood could make two necks. Wasteful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 It still can,most likely,if the cuttofs are saved,then laminated side by side(at the face) with some other laminate in the middle... But yeah,on any future blanks like that,if the grain is suitable all the way cross you can put the headstocks at opposing ends and get two one piece necks out of something that size...live and learn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted October 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 It still can,most likely,if the cuttofs are saved,then laminated side by side(at the face) with some other laminate in the middle... But yeah,on any future blanks like that,if the grain is suitable all the way cross you can put the headstocks at opposing ends and get two one piece necks out of something that size...live and learn Thats the thing the grain wasn't after the headstock. It basically goes perpendicular. Thats why I only used what I used. Its ok though. I Save and use the peices for other stuff. Making little knicknacks and what not. Nothings wasted :-P But I liked the Idea of a laminated neck. Ill have to see if they can be used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IPA or death Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 But Les Pauls are comfortable to play maybe the lightest 20% of them are ok - they are certainly not the comfiest design and can get pretty backbreaking at the heavier end of the scale so really i would say if it feels heavy now it will be when completed. thinning it down or hollowing it out will save back cracker bills later on down the line and give you a guitar you still play a fdew years down the line. i say that as someone who has made the mistake of leaving things a little heavy thinking it doesnt matter too much if its just for me! Yeah, they are heavy usually. I meant comfortable to play sitting down. I never stand and play but you didn't know that ...or care for that matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted October 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 Ok so we have a lot more work done Routed the body to shape Love the figure and how well the join between the mahogany and maple went. Also routed the neck pocket. Rough cut the headstock Shaped the heel and test fitted the neck joint Fits PERFECT haha Pretty excited on how well its going as this is my 3rd build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted October 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 (edited) Also Shaped a Bone blank Nut I also routed the pickup routes (my MDF Template had some nicks and they came out like crap.... Next time I'm going to remake them with acrylic again) Im not worried though... The pickup Rings will cover them, I'll take more time on this step next time. I was also checking the bridge placement in this photo. So I installed the bridge in and rechecked everything. Here was checking the Nut, It sits perfectly. Here it is all aligned, strings running down the fretboard just right And here it is so far I also beveled the belly cut and things here and there on the back. So I'll get some HD close up pictures of all the detail tomorrow in the light. Edited October 19, 2011 by Pestvic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menapia Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 Look'n good . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pestvic Posted November 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 (edited) started carving the back finshed the neck (shaped, heel carved, sealed) carving the front. (yes what you see later was all done with a straight chisel.. haha hand sanded (wanted most of the hard work done literally by hand) progress sealing finish test Edited November 2, 2011 by Pestvic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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