YDoesGodMockMeSo Posted January 12, 2004 Report Posted January 12, 2004 http://home.rgv.rr.com/kingv1474/100_FUJI/3/ Has the pictures. #2, 3, 5, 7 show some fissures that have crept up on me... Any ideas? I read in a Stewmac tutorial that that kinda crap is normal for alder? What am I supposed to do? Should I go deeper w/ the cutways near the neck pocket? Any opinions? Words of hatred? Encouragement? Oh..i damped the wood down to bring out the fibers that are loose and what not. Hence the wet appearnce in some pics, and dry in others > Quote
Snork Posted January 13, 2004 Report Posted January 13, 2004 very clean routes my man! nice job!!!!!! Is it just me or is everyone doing a jem now! dont know how to help ya though. Quote
StreamLine Posted January 13, 2004 Report Posted January 13, 2004 it looks good....... if not a little 'unimaginative' still, good work, should be v good! Roman Quote
YDoesGodMockMeSo Posted January 13, 2004 Author Report Posted January 13, 2004 very clean routes my man! nice job!!!!!! Is it just me or is everyone doing a jem now! dont know how to help ya though. not a jem. JPM-esque. Quote
lovekraft Posted January 13, 2004 Report Posted January 13, 2004 It looks like checking to me, could be the wood wasn't completely dry in those spots, or punky in spots. No big, just fill and finish as usual. If you're doing a transparent finish, I'd use CA to fill (outdoors, and wearing a respirator and safety glasses - it doesn't take long to cure, but the fumes are brutal), then sand, seal and finish. If it's an opaque finish, use any filler you like, Bondo, red body filler, whatever, then primer and finish. I've found spots in alder and poplar that got worse and worse as I sanded them, but a little CA and some judicious spot sanding makes 'em go away. Nice job so far, don't let this sidetrack you. Quote
YDoesGodMockMeSo Posted January 13, 2004 Author Report Posted January 13, 2004 CA? I was planning on getting some veneer and dyeing the top..so the top doesn't matter TOOO much. But the fissures on the back do... Quote
lovekraft Posted January 13, 2004 Report Posted January 13, 2004 Sorry, CA is cyanoacrylate glue, as in Super glue. I use the thicker viscosity, and just wipe it into the grain, scrape off the excess, and sand it smooth after it cures. It sinks into the grain fairly well, I've used it to stabilize some soft spots in veneers, too. Some folks use epoxy, or poly resin, but I've never tried either, since I've got this on my bench anyway. Quote
monkyboy777 Posted January 13, 2004 Report Posted January 13, 2004 YDoesGodMockMeSo, Looks good so far. I used the JPM from the download section (other than the handle, I don't see much diffence between the JPM and the JEM, except for maybe the JEM has a deeper cutaway maybe) to make the body below. As far as suggestions, just do what you want with the routes, it is your guitar. lovekraft, When you have used the CA to fill, have you ever had any problems with staining or tung oiling? Does the glue create "gaps" or "streaks" from not taking the stain or oil? Quote
YDoesGodMockMeSo Posted January 13, 2004 Author Report Posted January 13, 2004 YDoesGodMockMeSo, Looks good so far. I used the JPM from the download section (other than the handle, I don't see much diffence between the JPM and the JEM, except for maybe the JEM has a deeper cutaway maybe) to make the body below. As far as suggestions, just do what you want with the routes, it is your guitar. lovekraft, When you have used the CA to fill, have you ever had any problems with staining or tung oiling? Does the glue create "gaps" or "streaks" from not taking the stain or oil? its the # of pickups + control layout that makes a the JPM *NOT* a jem. Quote
lovekraft Posted January 13, 2004 Report Posted January 13, 2004 Yeah, I don't put dye directly on the wood, so that might cause a problem - perhaps dye and then fill? It's a non-issue for me, I think a transparent dyecoat gives a cleaner color than dyeing the wood, and it doesn't obscure the figure as much, but to each his own. I generally use a shellac sealcoat over the bare wood before any finish goes on, but I've never used any kind of catalyzed oil finish, so I'm not sure there wouldn't be adhesion problems. I do know it'll work under nitro and acrylic lacquer and auto poly, but as always, I can't really speak to stuff I haven't used. Check the Musical Instrument Makers Forum for more on CA filling, it seems to me that Ellie Erickson has used it extensively. Now personally, I'd only use alder on a painted guitar, and I'd probably use reg'lar ol' red spot putty for filling it, and primer over it, but that's just me. Quote
balooka Posted January 14, 2004 Report Posted January 14, 2004 nice yob there on the routing, however, how are you gonna screw on the cavity covers? you didnt leave any wood to mount them on... Are you glueing those parts in? JP Quote
daveq Posted January 14, 2004 Report Posted January 14, 2004 nice yob there on the routing, very clean routes my man! nice job!!!!!! Yes but take a look at #12 - the neck pocket. It's gonna need some work. Were you planning on routing that again or something? Other than that, it looks very nice. Keep the pics comming! Quote
YDoesGodMockMeSo Posted January 14, 2004 Author Report Posted January 14, 2004 nice yob there on the routing, however, how are you gonna screw on the cavity covers? you didnt leave any wood to mount them on... Are you glueing those parts in? JP at the time of the pics i hadn't routed at all for the cavity covers. Just the cavities themselves. about the neck; i'm gonna wait til i get the neck before i decide what needs to be done with it. about the pics; my sis took my digital camera for a while Quote
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