ScottR Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Haven't heard of grain raise on an oil-finished instrument, but I'm not a particularly sweaty person, and my gigging days are long gone now. Could also be down to a number of factors too - number of coats applied, pore density of timber, hardness of timber, the way it was applied... IME not all danish oils are created equally. Even the same product by a single manufacturer changes when they decide to tweak the formula. I used to use Cabots danish oil until the recipe changed and suddenly it wouldn't go on using my usual method without turning into a gummy, lumpy mess. I've settled on Rustins danish oil for now. Most people seem to use a wet flood coat on the first application, leaving it to settle for 10-15mins, rub out the excess, followed by subsequent lighter rub in/rub out coats with a light sand in between each coat. I've found that after the initial flood coat you need to rub out the surface every few minutes as excess oil tends to ooze up out of the pores for a while, particularly in open pored timbers. If they're left to dry on the surface you end up with little tiny flecks of solidified oil that will have to be sanded out. Wet sanding the oil with 600+ grit is another method that helps push the oil and slurry mix into the timber pores for a smoother finish. Surface protection is minimal (heat, water, abrasion, dents), but minor blemishes are easy to fix without having to strip the whole thing down and refinish. Despite this I much prefer the look and feel of oiled timber over uber-glossy finishes. The minimal tool and workshop requirements, and a dunderhead-proof method of application suits my personal situation too That's the way mine was finished, only using Behlen's Teak Oil--chosen because RAD has always had such good luck with it. Maybe my sweat is just super caustic. Sweating is a fact of life in south Texas. I agree about an oil finished neck felling the best. I've gone to that no matter what finish goes on the rest of the body. The best feeling neck I own is jatoba porefilled with a shellac slurry and finished with a couple of light coats of Danish oil. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 I'm not sure those are cracks in alder. I've used it a number of times and haven't had that issue. I do see those markings though like in the Fender picture. Not sure what they are, but when I've seen them they have not been cracks but part of the grain detail of the wood. Chris Those markings is what I meant with cracks... maybe is not the right word. It happened to me in the first body I made, long time ago. First I didn't see anything, but in a week or so they appeared in the surface... is something superficial, not really deep cracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 I suspect that what you're seeing is some sort of medullary ray expression such as pith flecks. Wood which hasn't been well-selected and/or improperly prepared from the rough might surface check I guess. I can't say that I've seen Alder play games yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 Hi guys... *** with the forum... ^^ @admins: How can I adjust the transparency of the background in the posts? I can't read a ****... Anyway, here some progress. Basically sanding the body, and still left to do...... ok, so while I'm getting used to the new image upload system...... here u go...So the body is mostly done... I still need to place the bridge and the electronics...And here testing some hardware... Next step is to radius the fretboard and finish the neck... let's see...Thanks for watching! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 14, 2015 Report Share Posted August 14, 2015 I'm sure Prostheta is still tweaking things like transparencies.....'cause I agree with that part.The guitar is dying to be seen with finish on it.SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2015 I wanted to have a break from body sanding and worked this weekend mostly on the neck... I've tweaked the back carve profile a lil bit and I think I got it... also worked on the fingerboard, 16" radius and polishing given, now it's ready for fretwork...There are a couple of fret slots that are slightly out of place, I must admit... hope they don't turn in problems while playing... I missed that pretty fret slotting jig from Stewmac, which everybody has except me. Anyway, the scale is 666 mm, doubt that Stewmac has such diabolic templates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted August 17, 2015 Report Share Posted August 17, 2015 I was about to say that I have a source for StewMac-compatible custom slotting templates, but then I reread your post. This guitar is turning out to be a stunner, I'm excited to see more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2015 Thanks!Fretting this thing... I had to cut the tangs in order to hide them from the side view. I did it with the (pseudo) dremel and a small file.It worked very well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 20, 2015 Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 666mm (a hair under 26,25") is a fantastic scale. I made my Dark Sabre 7-string over that same scale length and it works great as a more "Fender-familiar" sizing in comparison to more baritone 27"-27.5". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2015 Never tried anything different to 25.5"... and a baritone looks quite long to me, so I made something in between. Let's see how it works. Also wanted to tune it in drop B, not sure if the length helps... The nut is also wider than the others I built, 42mm this time... always made the nut 40mm wide, so in general, the whole thing is proportionally bigger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 22, 2015 Report Share Posted August 22, 2015 Even the difference between the Gibson "24-and-about-three-quarters" and Fender 25,5" makes a significant difference in tension and tone. I find 26,25" perfect for a seven with a low B, so you'll be golden with this configuration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 Even the difference between the Gibson "24-and-about-three-quarters" and Fender 25,5" makes a significant difference in tension and tone. I find 26,25" perfect for a seven with a low B, so you'll be golden with this configuration.Can I ask which gauge would you recommend?... I need to be sure before making the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 Hi there,I want to show you how I made the pickup rings. I got this method from a tutorial here in the old forum, some time ago... I couldn't find it again, but just want to say thanks whoever posted it, although it was not really clear due to lack on images, I finally figured how and wanted to share it again, but a lil bit better explained. Hope you find it useful too.First I got three mahogany veneers, planned and sanded to 2mm thick:Then I glued them together with the grain crossed, to give more resistance to the final piece:Then I've made a template/jig/whatever to route the inner and outer sides, all in the same piece:First I've routed the inner part in both pieces:And this is the funny part. I'm gonna use the squared edge of the board to route the ring, so I need some kinda stops to place the inner part. You have to be very precise in this step in order to get a perfect shape.Then insert the ring and route the first corner:After that, you just have to flip the ring 180º and route the opposite corner:And here you go. It just need some rounding and the holes.And that's all... I must say that I have to make another pair of rings because I've broken one of them while routing, but more or less you get the idea. ^^I'm gonna paint them in black, mostly because I don't have ebony... the idea was making them 3 layers ebony, maple, ebony line in the headstock... what a pitty!Cheers 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2015 Pickups and electronics in place... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 That is looking all dressed up. What pickups and bridge do you have there?SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 That is looking all dressed up. What pickups and bridge do you have there?SRThe bridge is a unbranded chinese hardtail I bought long time ago. The pickups are Wilkinson, they have a great sound for the price IMO.Here some shots of the work in progress. I still have to make the nut, place/screw the bridge, finish the fret job and proceed with the final sanding before finishing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 Making the nut... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 29, 2015 Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 Wow. The finishing post isn't that far off now. How have you found Alder, now you've worked with it for a while? I ended up having to steam out a bunch of scratches and dings on my last bass from forgetfulness. I bought a few rolls of that grippy non-slip rubber mat stuff same as you using that towel. It saves time and all kinds of cosmetic distractions....! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 29, 2015 Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 How do you like bone nuts? That is supposed to be the classic material. I have a bone nut on a guitar I built a few years back and I find it a bit grippy on the strings. The strings occasionally hang up during tuning or bending. I have to put a little graphite on it from time to time.SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2015 Wow. The finishing post isn't that far off now. How have you found Alder, now you've worked with it for a while? I ended up having to steam out a bunch of scratches and dings on my last bass from forgetfulness. I bought a few rolls of that grippy non-slip rubber mat stuff same as you using that towel. It saves time and all kinds of cosmetic distractions....!Alder worked great so far... I have been very cautious to avoid scratches and dings, and always using an old towel over the bench... too poor for a non-slip-rubber thingee I fear.How do you like bone nuts? That is supposed to be the classic material. I have a bone nut on a guitar I built a few years back and I find it a bit grippy on the strings. The strings occasionally hang up during tuning or bending. I have to put a little graphite on it from time to time.SRWell, I never tried anything different... you're right, the bone is a lil bit grippy, specially if the strings have an angle between the nut and the tuners (like Gibson design)... I thought it would work better with the straight direction of the strings this time, let's see. Adding graphite to a bone nut is a common procedure, as far as I know. I should try some cool graphite nuts or something like that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 I've gone to Graph Tech nuts ever since the bone nut experience.http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Supplies/Nuts_and_Saddles/Black_TUSQ_XL_Nuts.htmlSR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 Thanks for the link Scott... I never bought on Stewmac but sure I can find them in Ebay. Do you buy them pre-slotted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 It's another case of "horses for courses". A graphite nut has the lubrication built in, however the material is ablative. Strings (wound moreso) slowly wear through the material as they slip through, ultimately resulting in fret buzz in the first position. Not so much of a problem since you don't have a tremolo bridge. Bone is more resilient to wear but requires graphite lubrication. I think bone would be so much cooler for this project, especially as you used it for the logo and it ties in better with the binding scheme. If there's any grain in the bone that might stain like the logo, that might be a nice little feature. I doubt that it would be a pleasant job (work and smell-wise) turning a new switch cap or making pickup rings from bone :-DThe whole other topic of "nut tone" is a non-starter in my book purely because I use Graph Tech products out of convenience rather than for their specifics. My implementation of zero frets negate the point of buying a Graph Tech TUSQ nut for their apparent tonal qualities. If they have an off-the-shelf product which removes the work of shaping and slotting, great. Not bad for a few bucks. Beyond that, materials like bone, Corian, brass or whatever else happens to be available for guide nuts become considerations. The only tone that guarantees opening notes sounding the same as fretted ones is a zero fret in my book.Rant over ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 Thanks for the link Scott... I never bought on Stewmac but sure I can find them in Ebay. Do you buy them pre-slotted?No, I slot them myself. I like a little wider string spacing at the nut than the pre-spaced ones typically come with.SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted August 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 I like the 'natural' touch of the bone in my builds, there is something primitive on it... not to mention that I try to avoid buying as many parts as I can.I found this, the initial design made in Illustrator... there are some differences with the real one, like the headstock - I had to make it smaller due to the size of the ebony veneers from Madinter - and the neck joint, which I still didn't figure it out when I made these plans. So now that I have the prototype in real, I will prepare this winter the next builds for the 2016 building season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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