Prostheta Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 Virtually readout free? (edit: "tearout") Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 Lovely clean work. Very neat boring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 26, 2016 Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 "boring work" 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Thanks guys! Carl, I'm not sure what you mean by 'readout'... Today's update: Started the arm contour on the maple Voyager 7. Since it's such a plain piece of maple, I think I'm going to paint it... what color would you guys like to see? I've got a vision of a nice dark candy purple (think 70's Challenger). I also jointed up a ridiculously light 2pc swamp ash set. It'll be a chambered 6 string with a walnut top. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 28, 2016 Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 On 26/09/2016 at 7:02 AM, Prostheta said: Virtually readout free? 4 hours ago, KnightroExpress said: Thanks guys! Carl, I'm not sure what you mean by 'readout'... Autocorrect. I meant either, "runout" or "tearout". Can't remember now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Ah! Well, none of either, as far as I can tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 28, 2016 Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Just had a re-read. I meant tearout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted September 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2016 Gotcha! No tearout, the 4-flute bit did a lovely job in both grain orientations I subjected it to. Today I scraped some binding, digging the result. Also, I got a box! I'm going full retro-fantastic on this build. Finally, I prepped a few blanks and tops. Here's the ash from last night, plus its future walnut top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted September 29, 2016 Report Share Posted September 29, 2016 Clean work, I love that V! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2k Posted September 30, 2016 Report Share Posted September 30, 2016 The binding on that V really makes the shape pop. That's gonna be one cool guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted October 3, 2016 Report Share Posted October 3, 2016 Gorgeous V - the binding looks spot on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted October 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 Thanks guys! OK. So today, I got started on the ash/walnut guitar that I prepped last week. Not a bad day's work, if I do say so myself! I'm hoping to have the body completely routed and the neck ready to carve by the end of Friday, but we'll see what happens. And, to top it all off, I got some boxes! We have here: the world's only (as far as I know anyway) nickel-plated Hipshot multiscale 8 bridge, and a set of Bare Knuckle Nailbombs with ceramic bridge mag and angled baseplates. Take a look at these magnificent bastards: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 ´Love all your machinery and the stuff you make with it, perfect work. Any special reason for why you've chambered that swamp ash body? It's already quite light wood, not sure if there will be any benefit in terms of sound either... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted October 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 You're too kind! It's certainly far from perfect, but I appreciate it all the same! It's an experiment in weight reduction, mainly. That swamp ash blank was extremely light when I started, so I wanted to see how far I could take it without doing anything too dramatic. Plus, I think the chambers make for a nice photo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 And what steps did you take to get the radiused edges at the bottom of those chambers? SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted October 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 Ah, one of my favorite little details! I started the chambers with a mortising bit to get the bulk of removal done, then switched to a bowl and tray bit with a bearing to do the final cleanup passes and leave the radiused walls. I don't think it'll really have any sort of positive effect on the instrument itself, but it makes me feel good to have a nice looking cavity....even if it'll never be seen beyond these pictures. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted October 4, 2016 Report Share Posted October 4, 2016 It is structurally stronger too, so you can add that to it's feel good value, since it's not a load bearing area anyway. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted October 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2016 Very true! Probably the closest to a legitimate reason I'm likely to think of, haha Today's update: picked out the body, top, and neck for the multiscale 8. It'll be a mahogany core, wenge top, and quartered wenge neck. Back to the chambered ash/walnut guitar, I got to work on the neck. The blank- a nice bit of flame maple with rosewood laminates. Routing the truss rod channel: Marking positions for the T-nuts: Trimming the neck outline. First on the bandsaw, then a bit and guide bushing, and final pass with my trusty mortising bit. Tuner holes drilled ( @Prostheta, please note the decidedly un-exploded headstock ) T-nut recesses drilled, along with little relief holes for the prongs. Then, simply pressed in with a closed chuck. Fretboard glue-up: Finally, added the last bits of binding to the body: This one is currently 3.4lb, I'm pretty confident that it'll be under 3lb once I rout the pickup and control cavities. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdogg Posted October 6, 2016 Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 Question... Why do you choose the T-nut over the threaded insert? I just feel like there are a lot of advantages to the threaded insert as far as placement is concerned and want to know your thought process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted October 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 You're totally right, threaded inserts do have the advantage of being smaller (depending on the size you choose, of course), and therefore easier to find room for and use. Plus, you can retrofit them into the heel of nearly any bolt-on, which is a nice option to have. That said, I prefer T-nuts because I feel that they distribute the clamping load in a better way: over a wide flange rather than relatively narrower threads. When the bolts are tightened in one of these necks, they are pulling on the T-nut and exerting force from the sub-fretboard face of the neck vs pulling on threads that may have a half-inch or less of purchase in the neck heel. I also use 1/4"-20 bolts and matching T-nuts, which are likely entirely overkill for this application. I'd rather have something overly burly and understressed, that way it's never something to worry about. I think of it in the same way as a clamping caul... clamping force is exerted in a roughly 45 degree cone from the point of pressure, so if I can spread that out a bit, I'll have more even pressure throughout the joint. It probably doesn't actually make an appreciable difference in this specific case, but the amateur engineer in my brain likes this method. Hopefully all that makes sense! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted October 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 Little update for today: got the fretboard trimmed and binding scraped on the ash/walnut guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jdogg Posted October 6, 2016 Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 49 minutes ago, KnightroExpress said: You're totally right, threaded inserts do have the advantage of being smaller (depending on the size you choose, of course), and therefore easier to find room for and use. Plus, you can retrofit them into the heel of nearly any bolt-on, which is a nice option to have. That said, I prefer T-nuts because I feel that they distribute the clamping load in a better way: over a wide flange rather than relatively narrower threads. When the bolts are tightened in one of these necks, they are pulling on the T-nut and exerting force from the sub-fretboard face of the neck vs pulling on threads that may have a half-inch or less of purchase in the neck heel. I also use 1/4"-20 bolts and matching T-nuts, which are likely entirely overkill for this application. I'd rather have something overly burly and understressed, that way it's never something to worry about. I think of it in the same way as a clamping caul... clamping force is exerted in a roughly 45 degree cone from the point of pressure, so if I can spread that out a bit, I'll have more even pressure throughout the joint. It probably doesn't actually make an appreciable difference in this specific case, but the amateur engineer in my brain likes this method. Hopefully all that makes sense! I hadn't thought of the distribution of force... that actually makes a lot of sense... they're also significantly easier to install... I use 6mm threaded inserts as I found the standard 10-32 doesn't fill up the screw ferrules enough for my liking... You have to drill and tap the holes in wood like wenge to avoid massive splitting.... even when you tap the hoes... it still makes a mess... I've been thinking about epoxy gluing in a brass slug and then drilling and tapping... but figured that may creep out of the hole given enough time and an accidental stay in a hot car or something... my current design doesn't allow for T-nuts due to placement near the truss rod... but I've been thinking I'd like to rework my heel design anyways... or I could just trim the flange on the T-nut to get er closer to the truss rod slot... all food for thought... thank you... this got my brain going.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted October 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2016 Any time! You could also use smaller T-nuts than I do, that would get you a bit of extra clearance around your truss rod channel. I'm sure you could go as small as 10-32 and still have more than enough force for this application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnightroExpress Posted October 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 A lot of routing done today, this guitar is 4.6lb as it sits right now. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockhorst Posted October 8, 2016 Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 Your build updates just give me serious GAS everytime I check in Just so perdy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.