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help/ advice needed - switch worries


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hi all. hope this is in the right forum. this is my current build the problem is the control cavity is too shallow for the  switch.- it is 22mm deep,. the bottom of the cavity is expoy, why is it expoy? because i slipped when routing and was  2mm shy of going all the way through. i slightly overfilled the cavity but didnt notice until the top was on so now routing it deeper (somehow) seems very scary or impossible! 

 

i think my only option is a low profile rotary switch but given my very rudimentary electronics knowledge i have no idea what i need!

help

 

please

 

Gary

 

 

retro almanac.jpg

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you could just go with a mini on/on/on spdt... very small https://www.stewmac.com/electronics/components-and-parts/switches/mini-toggle-switches.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2020-09-gp&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_5XYq6iP7AIVYB6tBh0yWAlUEAQYASABEgIjSfD_BwE

 

if you do go rotary switch.. pretty simple... you need at least 2 poles and 3 throws ie 2p3t rotary.  once you get the switch I'm happy to help or many others here can guide you but it's really easy.

 

edit: in case you go mini switch... this diagram will come in handy later... just putting it here:

mini-toggle.jpg?fit=597,759&ssl=1

 

and in case you go rotary...

 

5C2j4.png

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If you have router bits with a bearing on the shaft that would still be doable without risking the finish too much. Make a template for the cavity and route the bottom carefully deeper. Since the center of the top seems to be radiused, the template should be thick enough to pass the highest spot of the top. For added security you could even make a two layer template with a smaller triangle on the cavity and a larger plate to cover the top.

Like so:

kuva.png.33300beb3f058ff0cf526f6fe1215479.png

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31 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

If you have router bits with a bearing on the shaft that would still be doable without risking the finish too much. Make a template for the cavity and route the bottom carefully deeper. Since the center of the top seems to be radiused, the template should be thick enough to pass the highest spot of the top. For added security you could even make a two layer template with a smaller triangle on the cavity and a larger plate to cover the top.

Like so:

kuva.png.33300beb3f058ff0cf526f6fe1215479.png

i considered something like this but frankly Bizman it scares me! its so near to being finished i dont want to risk screwing it up   and i have no idea how the epoxy would route. 

cheers 

Gary

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3 hours ago, Retrosonix said:

i considered something like this but frankly Bizman it scares me! its so near to being finished i dont want to risk screwing it up   and i have no idea how the epoxy would route. 

cheers 

Gary

I know that feeling and would say - trust your instincts.  I think you could totally do it... but if it goes south it's "shoots and ladders".  plus an all knob look is clean and cool!!

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5 hours ago, Retrosonix said:

i considered something like this but frankly Bizman it scares me! its so near to being finished i dont want to risk screwing it up   and i have no idea how the epoxy would route. 

Very understandable and since there's less dangerous options choosing one is wise.

I guess routing epoxy isn't much different to routing perspex which I've seen done on a Crimson video. So most likely it can be done, but at what speed and how deep passes are questions that would require testing with scrap pieces.

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  • 3 months later...

this project is still in progress..... i was an utter knob end and had placed the bridge pickup route in the wrong place.(measure once re route twice) i had to strip the body, fill the pickup cavity and re route about 12mm further back....grrrrr...   i am thinking about modifying the lower cutaway before i re spray... i havent even thought about the electrics since i discovered my error.WIN_20210101_22_26_39_Pro.thumb.jpg.e336917946af3a33a572f1dbaaee9f48.jpg

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