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How to duplicate Les Paul burst finish quilted maple


rx2man

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Hello, 1st post, 1st guitar build...I picked up the

 https://thefretwire.com/collections/diy-guitar-kits/products/diy-electric-guitar-kit-singlecut-mahogany-style-build-your-own-guitar-kit

 

Has the mahogany body and flame maple top...and yes I realize quilted and flame are different.  But my question is what to do to duplicate the the finish...pic is attached...it looks like there was no black dye sand back and just red and yellow with a orangy blending of the 2 between the red and yellow...but inam not sure...

m1vva3vlmugcupjpfvum.jpg

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There's several ways to do a burst. One is to apply stain on bare wood, another is to spray alcohol based stain over wet lacquer. A mix of the two is also possible. And of course there's both water based that blend and spirit based stains which don't blend. Oh, and to stir it up even more, stain and dye can or can not mean the same depending on who's talking and which side of the pond!

Anyhow, as you said there's no black dye sand back. But it may well be red dye sanded back and it may well be a different red than the burst.

Some scrap piece testing should definitely be done before attacking the real thing.

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Were it me, I'd dye the whole thing that dark orange and sand that back. Then I'd dye the whole thing that yellow. I'd spray a couple of coats of clear lacquer and lightly level them--knock the tops off the orange peel. Then I'd mix up a tint for the burst. Orange dye mixed with alcohol and then mixed with lacquer. I'd spray it with an airbrush, but a good detail gun can be used to good effect as well. Heavy on the edges fading to nothing in the middle. For the darkest edges I'd add burgundy to the orange tint. And as a last resort a drop of black if the very edge needs to be darker. Then bury that under 12 - 20 coats of clear lacquer.

SR

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18 minutes ago, rx2man said:

seems there is more to that finish than simply blending from red to yellow...and applying a clear coat

You can do that as well. Apply that dark orange (spirit based) and sand it back. Apply the yellow (water based) and blend the red (water based). And apply a clear coat. I may have missed a step or three but that's how I figure it could be done as well as how @ScottR described.

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1 hour ago, Bizman62 said:

You can do that as well. Apply that dark orange (spirit based) and sand it back. Apply the yellow (water based) and blend the red (water based). And apply a clear coat. I may have missed a step or three but that's how I figure it could be done as well as how @ScottR described.

Absolutely. And you can wipe on and blend the various colors all water based or all alcohol based too. And you can spray the dyes on as well to get smooth blends. I've tryed them all and what I mentioned earlier is just what I'd do these days.

SR

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All of that. You can almost be sure there is no dye and sand back. The commercial companies don't spend the time to do that as far as I know. but the things you can be sure of is the wood is a very high end piece that has been well prepared. The dye work and tint (my eyes says the burst is a tint layer) is superb and the clear thick and polished to within an inch of its life. And most of all it is lit and photographed to get the maximum effect. Light intensity and angle are a huge factor in how figured maple looks. I've got one that looks navy blue in room lighting. But in the sun or under a focused light it is turquoise in the center to royal blue to purple to black.

SR

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By looking at the knobs, binding and inlays I'd even say that aside good lighting there's also quite some photo manipulation involved. The orange is very saturated and if you look at the tail block and bridge they have an orange hue as well. All chrome parts look like worn out. The vol and tone knobs which I believe should look like brass also look weird.

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Well it is all good to know, that even if I nailed it exactely right it would not look like that.  The lighting it is under in the photograph has altered it so much.  As well as that being a very nice piece of wood.  But knowing that I am after that look I cannot replicate the traditional cherry sunburst.  I really appreciate the feedback...i made tobacco briar and bamboo pipes in the past and love working with wood so I can't wait to get this project going.  But I needed to know what was going on in the photograph...

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Just to show you how what can be done with just a couple of simple tricks. Notice that I was very sloppy with the outlining, I obviously don't have all the plugins in my Paint.net:

kuva.thumb.png.6234e65999cd0efc8284eb3d4b0f7115.png

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On 12/4/2020 at 4:39 PM, rx2man said:

Well it is all good to know, that even if I nailed it exactly right it would not look like that. 

You can get there. this is one of mine in both direct sunlight and indirect sunlight. Granted it is an excellent piece of wood and a pretty good finishing job, but it can be done.

DSC_0020.JPGDSC_0095.JPG

SR

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That's crazy with the lighting....will check out Freddy's frets and Scott R that is an awsome finish on it...REALLY like that... makes ya wanna eat it, it's tasty lookin lol....that is a finish I would like to pull off.  Do you have a build thread for that guitar??

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You can really see how the light brings out the lighter tones....

And guys i have to say this is a great forum!!!  Very helpful to a total noob and it really is appreciated...i did my research before asking a bunch of stupid questions that have been answered a 100 times already but just coukd not figure out what was going on with thst particular guitars finish.  

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On 12/5/2020 at 11:06 AM, rx2man said:

That's crazy with the lighting....will check out Freddy's frets and Scott R that is an awsome finish on it...REALLY like that... makes ya wanna eat it, it's tasty lookin lol....that is a finish I would like to pull off.  Do you have a build thread for that guitar??

Here you go:

And thanks, glad you like it

SR

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  • 1 month later...

12 layer sandwich (IIRC), counting clear coats as 2 of 12 because there are two separate 'sections' of clear.

Several layers directly onto bare wood, clearcoated and leveled, then several shader coats on top of the leveled finish.

And there is sandback, but it's not black.

Why does everyone always think sandback has to be black?

That has always mystified me, I use all kinds of colors for sandbacks.

And that bookmatched top cost me +/- $25.00.

It wasn't much to look at raw, which I have pics of.

WhYebOE.jpg

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This top I almost got for free, it was nearly a throaway set to the seller because the flame only went halfway.

If you saw it in the raw, you would probably have agreed.

I said fine, give it to me and I'll show you what you can do with a throaway set.

I think $15.00 plus shipping.

Yes, the wood is important, but what you can do with it is far more important.

QQaYCvU.jpg

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OK, I think I did pay about $50.00 for this set.

This was done with (probably) the same basic colorset as the first pic.

I don't think 12 layers, probably 7-8 using the same basic recipe.

If you can't tell, I love southwestern and what I call 'Cowboy Sunset' color schemes.

Didn't do such a hot job on the final buffout, see all those finishing scratches on the bottom of the pic?

Bad Drak, Baaad...

HNuaMUz.jpg

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