Muzz Posted March 6, 2021 Report Share Posted March 6, 2021 Nice piece of rock maple that has been sitting in my basement for a few years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 6, 2021 Report Share Posted March 6, 2021 I take it that this is not the finished item? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted March 6, 2021 Report Share Posted March 6, 2021 For a diddley bow it still lacks something... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted March 6, 2021 Report Share Posted March 6, 2021 4 hours ago, Muzz said: Nice piece of rock maple that has been sitting in my basement for a few years. That's one hell of a good start! SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted March 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 13 hours ago, Prostheta said: I take it that this is not the finished item? No I am 'finishing' a guitar I made about 13 years ago, I made a Marauder style body and put a premade neck on it. Now I'd like a a blonde neck on it with a flying V style head stock, and this is my lump of clay.. 13 hours ago, Bizman62 said: For a diddley bow it still lacks something... I had to look up what a diddley bow was, this guy plays one well 12 hours ago, ScottR said: That's one hell of a good start! SR You know Scott, I think the same way, if you find a nice piece of timber it inspires you to try and make something musical and/or beautiful out of it. Here it is in the scarf jig. Half way through First cut finished 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 7, 2021 Report Share Posted March 7, 2021 7 hours ago, Muzz said: Automatic round of applause for this jig. Did you wangle this one into reality from the depths of your own mind or was it inspired? This could form the basis of an adjustable permanent jig given a few tweaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted March 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2021 22 hours ago, Prostheta said: Automatic round of applause for this jig. Did you wangle this one into reality from the depths of your own mind or was it inspired? This could form the basis of an adjustable permanent jig given a few tweaks. I saw a post on this forum of someone cutting for a scarf joint using a hand saw completely freehand and that was inspirational, but I knew that I did not have that kind of skill. So I designed the jig, yes, from scratch, here are my plans, my mistake placing of one of the dowels is crossed out and repositioned to where it should be. Who knew that trigonometry would come in handy some day. I have started sanding the joint faces using this home made sled One done 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 8, 2021 Report Share Posted March 8, 2021 Trigonometry and general geometric mathematics are a key skill in so many areas of instrument making. It really does create a more solid base to work from, especially when dealing with precise work like this. Like I said, automatic applause bud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted March 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2021 16 hours ago, Prostheta said: Trigonometry and general geometric mathematics are a key skill in so many areas of instrument making. It really does create a more solid base to work from, especially when dealing with precise work like this. Like I said, automatic applause bud. Cheers mate, that is so right, a little bit of mathematics can really help in guitar making, and it is really cool seeing how things can be worked out before making sawdust. I sanded the join surface on the other piece of rock maple tonight, Sanded it until there was no more sawdust, while listening to this awesome band There is way too much wood in the headstock region, but just like beer at a party it is better to have too much than too little 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 9, 2021 Report Share Posted March 9, 2021 Very cool. Run by the numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted March 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2021 On 3/10/2021 at 2:08 AM, Prostheta said: Very cool. Run by the numbers. and the next challenge for me where the numbers are going to be important is making a head stock that is not a modified Ibanez HS design. I downloaded these two images and I'll use the tuner holes which I hope are 10 mm diameter, to get a sense of scale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted March 11, 2021 Report Share Posted March 11, 2021 At this point I had to google for a Marauder to figure out what it's like. An LP Jr with a Flying V neck? If you're going to modify the headstock, have you thought of a straighter string pull? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 11, 2021 Report Share Posted March 11, 2021 It's generally better to scale off larger sizes such as tuner hole spacing or at worst the neck width. Measuring off the tuner hole width is incredibly prone to error. If you knew the headstock angle accurately, you could even infer a size from the spot faced truss rod access footprint. Having a photo of the back of the headstock with tuners installed and the actual tuner body dimensions could help build a value of tuner hole spacing. Those laminates might even be 25mm or 1", however that's difficult to get any reliance from unless you know it as a fact. Also, hole spacing for the truss rod cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10pizza Posted March 11, 2021 Report Share Posted March 11, 2021 i've had a few marauders on my workbench for repairs/setup. Nice guitars, not a model you see a lot. (which I like ) good luck with the build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted March 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 On 3/11/2021 at 8:06 PM, Bizman62 said: At this point I had to google for a Marauder to figure out what it's like. An LP Jr with a Flying V neck? If you're going to modify the headstock, have you thought of a straighter string pull? Yes, the Marauder is a real mixture of styles and features, I really like the way they look. I'm going to start drawing up my plan for it on the weekend, I won't be able to modify the Gibson chubby arrowhead headstock shape much because that shape has, ironically on a 57 varieties guitar, become so synonymous with the species for me, It's funny how we get used to certain combinations of features on guitars. although I love to see builders mix things up now and again On 3/11/2021 at 8:31 PM, Prostheta said: It's generally better to scale off larger sizes such as tuner hole spacing or at worst the neck width. Measuring off the tuner hole width is incredibly prone to error. If you knew the headstock angle accurately, you could even infer a size froGibson m the spot faced truss rod access footprint. Having a photo of the back of the headstock with tuners installed and the actual tuner body dimensions could help build a value of tuner hole spacing. Those laminates might even be 25mm or 1", however that's difficult to get any reliance from unless you know it as a fact. Also, hole spacing for the truss rod cover. Glad I chatted with you, I calibrated the image analysis program ImageJ using the distance between the truss rod cover screw holes (52 mm) versus the tuner holes and you are right, the truss rod holes give a more accurate calibration. If anyone wants the software you can get it here https://imagej.nih.gov/ij/download.html 22 hours ago, 10pizza said: i've had a few marauders on my workbench for repairs/setup. Nice guitars, not a model you see a lot. (which I like ) good luck with the build! Cheers for that, and yes I agree, the Marauder is a nice guitar, and very rare, that may be because Paul Stanley did his best to commit genocide on the species this web page shows him smashing his way through who knows how many dollars worth of Marauders http://axeology.com/P76Marauder.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 12, 2021 Report Share Posted March 12, 2021 Good to hear you got your win! I'll have to check that software out myself; does it account for lens distortions as well? That's always the main enemy of scaling from pictures. Funny that you're building a Norlin-era Gibson-inspired instrument. I've always thought that the more rounded end Flying V headstock was the coolest. Essentially how James Hetfield's white "Gibson" looked, but more Jim Martin's chrome pickguard Kahler-loaded 70s V. Those are just too cool for school. This Marauder's headstock looks a little longer than what I have in my mind, but in the ballpark. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted March 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2021 I don't think it can correct lens distortion, in this case it's OK as I am going to draw out the head stock and the rest of the neck on paper. I am not going for a clone, just something that captures the essence of that model. Jim Martin's Vs were cool http://www.faithnomorefollowers.com/2016/07/happy-birthday-jim-martin.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 13, 2021 Report Share Posted March 13, 2021 4 hours ago, Muzz said: I don't think it can correct lens distortion, in this case it's OK as I am going to draw out the head stock and the rest of the neck on paper. I am not going for a clone, just something that captures the essence of that model. Jim Martin's Vs were cool http://www.faithnomorefollowers.com/2016/07/happy-birthday-jim-martin.html As far as I understand it, Jim's V is a typical Norlin 70s Flying V with little to no neck angle. Instead, the neck is set high off the body. Crazy sort of setup, but some people dig that. Shame you have to raise the neck pickup so far off the body plane in that configuration. Are you chewing over this detail, or going your own way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted March 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 Yep, I have seen a few pictures of tune o matic guitars with no neck angle and raised up necks, it looks very strange. Some early 70's guitars were built that way I think. This guitar has a neck angle, and I have/am definitely going my own way with this, I am not trying to make a perfect copy here, I wan't to inject some of my own features into the mix. Here is the 13 year old body, this was the first guitar I made, with no templates! and here is the practise on scrap neck from the Destroyer I made a few years back, it wil get used here a bit It's beer o'clock 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 14, 2021 Report Share Posted March 14, 2021 Yeah, but unlike most Norlin era stuff, that had a vibe. Corvuses and all of the other stuff was desparation in the extreme. Terrible stuff. I hope you can bring something positive into the Marauder that Gibson just failed to do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted March 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2021 Oh yeah, but wait there's more in the 'best' of Gibson's experiments, check out the Spirit II XL, Alpha Q-3000, US-1 and M-III and best of all, the Sonex, made from a central chunk of wood and wrapped in sawdust and resin. The Gibson company history is fascinating, if you can get your hands on a copy of the book, Totally Guitar: The Definitive Guide by Tony Bacon and Dave Hunter it is well worth the read Found these in the spare parts box, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted March 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2021 Today it is absolutely pouring down with rain in Sydney, good day for mucking around on my project. I used some scrap radiata pine and tried a new way for me to glue a scarf joint using a glue clamping caul. I first wrapped my caul in greasproof paper and put some more paper on the bench. Then put some glue on the long neck piece. Rubbed the glue over the joint plane and clamped it to the caul. Then put some glue on the short piece joint plane and shoved it in the wedge, Easy, everything is squared up, no trying to align and hold two slippery fish together, I probably didn't need any clamps, but I could hear the clamp police's sirens at this point so I put a lot of pressure on the joint, probably a total waste of time for a joint with dead flate planes but the sirens faded into the distance. I'll unclamp it tomoz and see if my experiment worked., Have a rockin' weekend \m/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted March 20, 2021 Report Share Posted March 20, 2021 That's a clever way to glue the scarf joint! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 20, 2021 Report Share Posted March 20, 2021 Clamp police! Hands on the Workmate and show me some ID! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted March 20, 2021 Report Share Posted March 20, 2021 In all seriousness though, it's a valid solution but a few tweaks can rattle out possible issues. Reduced clamping pressure needs a good consistent thin film of glue on both surfaces. Pfohl glue rollers are pretty neat, but they waste too much glue on a single component layup! A notched spreader or a hair comb does the trick. If slip is a PITA, lay out your parts dry and shim up the neck part by say 0,5mm or similar. Drill through the areas either side and fit a couple of wood dowels for locating. In the layout shown, downwards pressure on the neck section increases overall pressure in the gluing area, with the dowels stopping the material from slipping out of location. One big clamp in a stable layup with cauls to distribute pressure is all that this really needs. It works. If using dowels, bear in mind the shear force involved as it could easily split out wood from the dowel locations closer to the thin edges. I have literally never done this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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