Starting a new build (After a brief pause)

[Dward13]

Got 4 coats of Tru-Oil done.

Been diligent:

Thin coats - Top - 24 hr. - Back - 24 hr. - Sides - 24 hr. - Repeat

Been doing a light dry sand with 800 grit on the first couple then 1200 grit + 00 steel wool on the last couple.

Will probably switch to thinned Tru-Oil for a few more coats.

And will try coating the entire body in each application to make sure the edges don't build up from coats overlapping.

[Dward13]

Finally got up the nerve to drill out for the tuners.

Usually tend to be overly cautious when executing an operation that requires some precision.

And as usual it was much easier than I thought it would be.

Sure am glad I invested in the template.

[Bizman62]

Those stripes sure look classy! I once made a three piece neck with a broad contrasting centre piece and it looks a bit clumsy. The thin veneers make it look so much more delicate.

[Dward13]

Finally got around to finishing this one up.

Next project: A Strat like outline with no magnetic pickups and a GraphTech piezo/midi system.

 

[Dward13]

Got the blocks made for the new project.

Wings are made from wood I bought years ago that was sold as "Asian White Mahogany".

I can't seem to find a wood listed as that; the closest thing is a wood called Jelutong.

The weight and grain pattern seems to match.

Anybody have more info on this?

The back has a flame maple backbone and the top a flame maple center section with walnut and maple accents.

[Dward13]

Got the body roughed out and the control cavity routed.

[Dward13]

On a roll today, got the neck pocket routed.

Amazing how fast it goes when you already have the jig made.

I inset the neck a couple more frets than I could have, body will be fairly light and want to avoid it being too neck heavy.

Edited June 25, 2023 by Dward13

[Dward13]

Ticked off a few more tasks:

Routed a channel for the piezo wires.

Drilled the screw holes and string access holes for the bridge.

Drilled out for the phono plug and 13-hole MIDI plug.

Edited June 28, 2023 by Dward13

[Dward13]

Came up with a control cavity door: Bubinga

Was going to use a store bought Fender Strat neck, but I've been messing with a scratch one that I think will work out.

Interesting history, it's curly maple with a birdseye center; the maple I got from NorthWestTimber about 20 years ago.

The piece still had a tag on it and I wrote to them and it was still on their books.  3.2 Bf of music grade flame maple $144, they said it would be $240 today.

The birdeye is from a piece the guy who I worked with at the violin shop gave me circa 1977.

Bubinga fretboard.

 

Edited July 5, 2023 by Dward13

[Dward13]

Got the frets pressed in, not sure what I'll do about markers, may leave the fret board plain or add a 12th fret marker.

Drilled out for the neck screws.

Started with the shaping of the body.

Edited July 12, 2023 by Dward13

[Bizman62]

Wo-ho-hoo! That multi-layer body is ever so subtly insane! The centre block that is striped on the top but solid in the bottom, and how the stripes curve at the roundover... And how the top falls down to the seam at the arm bevel - funny how visible the glue line is between the top and the bottom, almost like a veneer! Nothing wrong with that, I'm sure it isn't because of insufficient pressure, more likely I'd think it's about different grain directions.

Do you always add fret markers after fretting? To me getting even a small marker leveled and polished between the frets sounds more challenging than doing it on a slotted board. Side dots are different, they can usually be added at any stage of the process.

[Dward13]

Thanks, my idea with the center is to have a “backbone” of harder wood, sort of a neck through compromise.  
With this guitar I was wanting to use this wood I bought as “Asian White Mahogany”, but the pieces I have are only 4 in. wide so the center pieces were wider than I usually use.
And, I have usually made the top piece from a solid book matched  block without the center laminated etc..
I am a little disappointed in the glue line showing as much as it does.
I would have routed out for fret markers when the board was flat, but I had planned on going without them.

 

[Bizman62]

3 hours ago, Dward13 said:

I am a little disappointed in the glue line showing as much as it does.

Don't. Showing in all places it looks like intended. It almost makes me feel like you have intentionally been using a dark glue for an ultra thin dark veneer effect!

[Dward13]

This was my first attempt at a string through bridge and my drilling job was not specifically too great.
Had to use my inlay tool for the router to make a patch.
I do think that if I do another string through build I’ll just plan on the inlayed piece.
That way you can make sure the holes are aligned and spaced correctly before mounting it.

 

[Bizman62]

That holey piece sure looks much more accurate than the original holes! And it's also a nice detail echoing the stripes on the front.

Drilling aligned holes through the body is a pain no matter how you do it. I don't know if there's some ultra stiff adamantium drill bits unavailable for mere mortals, at least I haven't heard of any. Drilling from both sides with a brad point bit is challenging as well. It works with thinner pieces like the headstock but inside a body the bit will warp. Maybe the easiest way would be to use a machined steel template on both sides and drill the end holes first for guidance. But where to get said steel template and would it be worth to make a special order for a one off build?

I've built two string through bodies, the first in the traditional way using ferrules and the other using a metal insert that only requires one slot to cover all six holes.

[Akula]

Great work on the inlaid string though holes!

There's a technique for using a drill press with a locator pin on the baseplate, very clever as it allows you to drill six holes halfway through the body, then flip the thing over and drill six holes from the other side to match up halfway through. All drill bits will wander in timber, but drilling a 3mm diameter hole through 25mm of wood may only wander a fraction of a mil and join up pretty good with it's partner tunnelling from the other side. Drill the same 3mm hole through the full 50mm of wood, and you'll be out by a couple of mil, and definitely see the "wonky". 

 

Love the choice of timbers for this build.

 

 - Jam

[Bizman62]

29 minutes ago, Akula said:

There's a technique for using a drill press with a locator pin on the baseplate,

So you only have to mark the location accurately with an awl and sit that notch on the pin? Sounds easy enough, although every time I try to align such notches I seem to find a hard spot that misplaces the pointy tool. Or maybe it's just the brad point drill bits having the brad off center???

[ScottR]

3 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

So you only have to mark the location accurately with an awl and sit that notch on the pin? Sounds easy enough, although every time I try to align such notches I seem to find a hard spot that misplaces the pointy tool. Or maybe it's just the brad point drill bits having the brad off center???

You want the pin to be the same diameter as the hole/bit. Drill the top half of the holes using your bridge as the guide. Then without moving any of the setup drill the hole in spoil board clamped under the bit. Drop the pin in. Flip the guitar and set each string hole onto the pin and drill the bottom half of the hole. Be sure that the bit is 90 degrees to the surface of each face of the guitar..

SR

[Akula]

Yep, exactly. 

 

Easiest way to make this jig: Take a 12mm sheet of plywood and sticky-tape it down to your drill press table. Now take a 3mm drill bit and drill down into it. Then glue a 3mm dowel into the hole. You now have a locating pin at exactly the same position as the drill bit of your press. Of course you'd need to have drilled the six holes on one side of the guitar to avoid having to move the sticky-taped plywood base - but the proper way to make a reusable jig is to make a plywood base which fits perfectly over the top of your press table with no wiggle-room, or to have it's own locators to position it back in the same spot every time. 

It'll save a lot of time when it comes to these string-through jobs, especially if you intend on cranking out multiple guitars.

 

All of this, by the way, is wasted on me - I have no room for a drill press, so I do it the hard way every time, haha.

 

 - Jam

[curtisa]

Also, use the shortest drill you can reasonably get away with. Rivet drills are ideal, as the fluted section is quite short compared to the overall length. The stiffer the drill, the less likely it is to flex and wander once it's knee-deep in the timber.

[Bizman62]

Thanks, guys! Having learned a new trick right after breakfast, this day is definitely not wasted!

[Dward13]

Got the body sanded to 600 and ready for the TruOil.

Made some gizmos for apply the TruOil.

Just for fun I tossed in a picture of what's left of my first guitar circa. 1977.

[Bizman62]

Gizmos are good to have and one should always take the little time needed to build them - says a guy who currently struggles with oiling the handles of a Stanley plane and has only been thinking about using a bolt or something like that as a handle.

[Dward13]

Two light coats of TruOil.

Really bring out darker highlights in the wings.

[Bizman62]

Oiling just brings the best out of wood! The contrast between the stripes in the center block and the longitudinal scratches (in lack of a better word) of the wings is subtle but it adds interest by a margin. I see it like there's a transverse force in the centre block trying to escape through the dark barrier lines, and the barrier lines are chipping yet keeping their direction. Sort of a two-dimensional big bang...