Nicco Posted June 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2022 Thanks fellas. That's a handy guide, Charlie, thanks for that. My blade always seems to drift the same direction, I wonder if perhaps my tracking and tension are a bit out. Hrmm. And wow, Biz, that's quite a set up going on there. I think you're overestimating my saw using abilities though, very much capable of operating error! I originally cut two blanks of mulga, one with and one without sap wood. This must have been the guitar building God's suggesting I needed to use the sap wood one all along. Ha ha. My kerfing strips turned up the other day, so I got the top of the soprano kerfing on. I've sanded it all flat and ready to plane the taper into three back face now; it's about 5 or 10mm deeper at the tail than the neck. I've also started on the forms for the tenor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted June 2, 2022 Report Share Posted June 2, 2022 56 minutes ago, Nicco said: that's quite a set up going on there. I came to thinking about a much simpler solution: If you have a fence, you can reduce the effect of changing pressure with every soft spot in the wood by attaching your workpiece to a rectangular solid block or other perpendicular jig similarly to what was described in the video. You'd lose the exact adjusting method but you'd have a means to keep your piece straight. Like so: Another simple trick is to take a large enough board and saw a kerf up to the middle of the board. Usually the plate in the table has a large opening, a narrow gap just the width of the blade should help from wandering. The image is from up above: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicco Posted June 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2022 Yep, awesome suggestions thanks Biz. I think the angle blocks to hold the work piece would definitely help me, the more I think about it the more I wonder if my issue was letting the downstream end of the piece wander around; it was the last 20% where the cut really went wonky, which means 80% was flapping in the breeze behind the blade. Then it's just a simple matter of leverage; a little bit of wander at the far end is hard to overcome at the short end with sideways force. I've made some more progress on the ukes; tenor forms are almost done now, just need to finish sand the inside of the second half. It's going to be a much bigger instrument than the soprano, that's for sure! I've also cut the side taper on the soprano and fitted the kerfing for the back. I'm off to visit family for the next week, so that will be all for progress for a while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicco Posted June 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2022 Back from the family visit now, had a quick run at it today before I have to disappear for a few days again tomorrow. I've managed to get the radius dish done; I used the method from the book I purchased, 50mm wide pine strips cut to the right radius on the bandsaw, then a 3mm mdf panel glued down on the top. The underside of the bench doubles as a handy go bar deck 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted June 15, 2022 Report Share Posted June 15, 2022 13 hours ago, Nicco said: Back from the family visit now, had a quick run at it today before I have to disappear for a few days again tomorrow. I've managed to get the radius dish done; I used the method from the book I purchased, 50mm wide pine strips cut to the right radius on the bandsaw, then a 3mm mdf panel glued down on the top. The underside of the bench doubles as a handy go bar deck I like your low tech approach to this (dowels, rough radius + thin mdf). I have seen an interesting other take on this... you make a set of arched supports for a router to slide over w the radius you need... then you mount a circle underneath those arches attached to a lazy susan (used in kitchen counters... allows the circle to spin). the idea being that you fix the router along the arch, turn it on, then spin/turn the wood mounted to the lazy susan. then you move the router along the arch and fix it in another locale and repeat. Always thought that was a cool idea anyway. nice clean work on the ukes. bravo. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicco Posted June 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2022 Yeah thanks, Mike. The book recommended this method. I thought either this or @Dave Higham's method looked like the easiest. The router options are more solid and consistent, but I shudder at the thought of how much dust they'd make. Ha ha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicco Posted June 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2022 I also got to working on the soundboard for the soprano last night. First I made a mistake with the sound hole, I did it first but should have done it after the rosette, so it chipped out when I cut the rosette channel. I'll have to go in and sort that out later. Also, my circle cutting jig didn't quite work as planned, the rosette channel came out to an outside diameter of 60mm which is where I wanted it, but the rosette came out at 59.5mm, so there's a little gap there. Annoying, cause it should have been perfect. I'll see what I can do, I might just have to suck it up and do another rosette. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted June 16, 2022 Report Share Posted June 16, 2022 1 hour ago, Nicco said: Yeah thanks, Mike. The book recommended this method. I thought either this or @Dave Higham's method looked like the easiest. The router options are more solid and consistent, but I shudder at the thought of how much dust they'd make. Ha ha is it really dust tho....... or man glitter? hehe, right on. nice work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted June 16, 2022 Report Share Posted June 16, 2022 3 hours ago, Nicco said: the rosette channel came out to an outside diameter of 60mm which is where I wanted it, but the rosette came out at 59.5mm, so there's a little gap there. Isn't that about the thickness of standard veneer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicco Posted June 20, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2022 On 6/16/2022 at 11:13 PM, Bizman62 said: Isn't that about the thickness of standard veneer? A standard veneer is between 0.5mm up to about 0.8mm (as far as my collection goes anyway) The OD of the rosette was actually a little smaller again once I'd cleaned it up, works well as it's meant I can use a black veneer as a trim piece (0.5mm thick but needs a 1mm diameter difference obviously) I'll put a black trim on the inside diameter as well to even up the look. I've cleaned out all the inner diameter of the rosette now to make space. Should be apple's now. In other news, I've bent up the first tenor side and the second one is in the forms. It's going to be a much bigger instrument than the soprano (but still much smaller than a guitar) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted June 20, 2022 Report Share Posted June 20, 2022 The black trim makes the rosette look more like a designed thing instead of "just" a round piece of wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicco Posted June 20, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2022 Yeah, agreed, I reckon it neatens it up nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted June 20, 2022 Report Share Posted June 20, 2022 They say that the Devil is in the details. Then again well made details make any work look much classier. An item showing flawless craftmanship is worth admiring but a detail that looks like planned can take it to the next level. Can't remember who it was, but he tends to glue a strip of veneer around the control cavity cover for a tighter fit, similarly to your rosette. Another similar trick is to inlay the jack plate. Simple but effective... And don't they even say that binding is just another way to hide poor top joints? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicco Posted June 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2022 Well, the rosette is in, and I'm very happy with the effect of the black veneer trims. I'm really glad that it worked out this way. The light trim on the ID is bunya pine, same as the soundboard. Once it's all sanded and finished it'll be nicely round and flushed with the sound hole. The rosette is still just a hair proud as well, which is why it's got the glue marks around it still. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicco Posted June 22, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2022 I'm toying with the idea of doing an inlay on the soundboard of the soprano as well, using one of my designs for timber brooches we sell. I'm still not sure if it's just adding detail for details sake at this stage; it would work on a bigger instrument, but I think it might end up looking cramped next to the bridge 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted June 22, 2022 Report Share Posted June 22, 2022 Ooh, a birdie sitting on the bridge! In my books ukes sound like songbirds so... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicco Posted June 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2022 Righto, so the artistic director (my other half) and I agreed that the wren inlay is just detail for detail's sake, which neither of us are massively keen on. It's too cramped up, so it's not adding to the instrument. I like it, but maybe next time. I had a first crack at trying to make a bridge. It's not bad, but I'll do another better. Also, the rims are together now for the tenor as well. Very exciting! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted June 27, 2022 Report Share Posted June 27, 2022 I'm a fan of the rosette, and the bird. SR 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicco Posted June 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2022 Thanks Scott. And Bizman, I never responded to your comment directly either. I see where you're coming from re the sound and the inlay, but to my ears, ukelele's sound shit... so maybe that's what I need to inlay. Frustrating progress on the ukes. I got inspired by Dave Higham using a mini mill for machining parts and remembered that I have one in the corner of the shed. I got another bridge blank all ready to go and machined the saddle slot with a 3.125mm straight bit for the 3.33mm saddle. Unfortunately it turns out the collet had some weird run out and the slot came out at 4mm. ☹ Unfortunately that's the only collet I've got for the mill, so I'll need to use a router for take 3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicco Posted June 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2022 So, at the risk of using veneer to fix everything; it occurred to me that the 0.5mm black maple veneer would bring the saddle slot back to dimension. I might give it a whirl cause this one is cactus anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted June 29, 2022 Report Share Posted June 29, 2022 10 hours ago, Nicco said: I see where you're coming from re the sound and the inlay, but to my ears, ukelele's sound shit... I guess you've already familiar with the world famous uke players so I won't bother listing them. My late cousin Martin could do some exciting rhythms with it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicco Posted June 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2022 Ha ha true, maybe I was being a little harsh for the sake of the joke, but the point roughly still stands, a good acoustic guitar sounds like honey to me, but ukuleles are always a bit clacky. But, no doubt, in the right hands they can sound amazing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicco Posted July 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2022 So I resisted the urge to dodgy my way through the bridge build with veneer and set to fixing the mill; the fella I'd bought it from had jammed the collet chuck in so hard it wouldn't come out and was bending everything to try and get it loose. Given the collet wasn't concentric (defeats the purpose of a collet chuck, but anyway) I needed to get it out and fit the drill type chuck that also came with the mill. I ended up fairly disassembling the head to get enough purchase to get a bearing puller on it. Eventually I got it out and the drill chuck in. The bits are running straight and true now. Phew! I ended up doing a third prototype of the soprano bridge before finally getting it right on number 4. All the hard work paid off though, because the tenor bridge came together on the first go. All that's left on the bridges now is to final sand and break the edges on the soprano one, and final contour shaping of the tenor one. Excited to get these done. It was fun doing some "machining" but I'm ready to get the mill off my bench and get back to the woodwork now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicco Posted July 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2022 It's worth adding that the tenor bridge is birdseye jarrah, and it really doesn't photograph well under the led lights in the shed; it looks more brown and less orange in real life. It goes with the fretboard rather nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted July 5, 2022 Report Share Posted July 5, 2022 looks rather exotic to me (jarrah). enjoy seeing the work to build the bridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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