Jump to content

West Poole Build


Stu.

Recommended Posts

Still haven't finished the Tele, but I wanted to do something different at the same time. I'm trying to get the guitars moving again after finishing a couple of quick projects.

This will be a single cut inspired by a very famous guitar. I'm calling it the West Poole to avoid copyright infringement (I've probably only been to Poole once in my life).

The original plan was to use swamp ash for the body, however I decided it might be a bit weighty and didn't fancy relieving it. This will have an obeche body with a flamed maple cap, ovangkol neck, and ebony fingerboard bound with flamed maple. 24.75" scale, 12" radius, block MOP inlays, fibre headstock faceplate, EMG Het Set, other stuff TBC.

386BC708-B625-40EB-BED0-16C9652554F3.thumb.jpg.4d91e65cf2c03e31b9e0653de3bec18c.jpg

IMG_9880_00.thumb.jpeg.5077c4f8182c2cf9921c272fd01cd8ee.jpeg

IMG_9887_00.thumb.jpeg.fcb242f29aba602cbc84b36a577a048b.jpeg

I've since changed the knives in my thicknesser and also rectified the snipe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm enjoying working with obeche so far. It's quite delicate though, so I'm trying my best not to knock it. I also had a tiny bit of tear out in the control cavity, which I patched up and will tidy later. Hopefully I can get the top glued on tomorrow! The plan is to clamp the edges and then put a stack of weighted plates in the middle - I alway forget to try that!

IMG_9890_00.thumb.jpeg.747e17f01fbed5ae9f14855c78ef3cc6.jpeg

Main cavities routed:

IMG_9950_00.thumb.jpeg.4ef66933060869eddb364193c917caed.jpeg

Top rough cut and trimmed down to ~20mm. Still need to get it closer to 15mm:

IMG_9952_00.thumb.jpeg.c05424dd47829b45d6a73d4e9b41e2bb.jpeg

That's a lot of chonk:

IMG_9954_00.thumb.jpeg.746a96bb12466eacb7e73b25661a344d.jpeg

 

Meanwhile, our smallest cat was channeling his inner Jedi:

IMG_4191_00.thumb.jpeg.a514ea0fa5cb657fed8842dacd09bd94.jpeg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The top is now down to 15mm and the body is 41mm. I'm aiming for 6mm of the top exposed at the sides, so this should make the guitar slimmer than a normal Les Paul at the sides and the same thickness at the middle - with a marginally deeper carve.

I really can't decide whether to bind the body. The original plan was to use spare flamed maple binding for the fingerboard and then faux binding for the body, but I do also like cream binding on a LP (body and fingerboard). If the glue-up isn't great, that'll make the decision for me 😅

Also, I need to get some nylon/PTFE/HDPE rod to cut down and use as indexing pins.

IMG_9976_00.thumb.jpeg.da92960b7db1bbf21d823ba2af389db1.jpeg

IMG_9977_00.thumb.jpeg.16b187d6de20d087d3b9013a01a972d0.jpeg

IMG_9978_00.thumb.jpeg.9f40d8278ed680c22f904cc60e23fe0d.jpeg

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Stu. said:

I need to get some nylon/PTFE/HDPE rod to cut down and use as indexing pins.

Cocktail sticks are easier to find and work as well. Just a reminder.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

Cocktail sticks are easier to find and work as well. Just a reminder.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I can never seem to get on with cocktail sticks - or maybe the ones we get in the UK are just useless.

A bit of a photo dump from today's activities! I wanted to share the little Trend cutters that I use for cavity cover rebates and also for tight routing (e.g. direct mount pickups, battery boxes, bass pickups).

IMG_9980.thumb.JPEG.5cb74ced538126e1e2f23fa0fd1e358a.JPEG

And an impulse buy from StewMac that I'm finding really useful in all of my projects (guitars and others). I've since realised that the cutters are just replaceable heads from turning chisels, so I'll buy those if I need replacements.

IMG_9981.thumb.JPEG.0b3a5634e5dfc8a5f1cbfcb0489555ce.JPEG

Clamps came off the body today and the join seems really good. I trimmed the edges of the top to meet the body and then sanded tooling marks out:

IMG_9984.thumb.JPEG.eef1bdb5e1a354a3253ef51385bf5338.JPEG

Followed by sanding by hand:

IMG_9985.thumb.JPEG.fe77876eaee13bf5a5a5f0af27f812f7.JPEG

The obeche looks pretty nice with white spirit, so I'm going to just use vintage nitro for a slight amber tint:

IMG_9988.thumb.JPEG.4512848faf127ad149c28cfb3a251c08.JPEGIMG_9989.thumb.JPEG.258424de1b0b6c85958ccfa940d433e4.JPEG

Followed by routing the binding channel:

IMG_9991.thumb.JPEG.5bd091385841860323a6c58e780343d7.JPEGIMG_9992.thumb.JPEG.9d8548c47300ab355992b336b94d6d88.JPEG

So we end the weekend with a roughed out body that's ready for cavity covers and cream binding:

IMG_9993.thumb.JPEG.05a8a32f45e81d9f68123103c6658186.JPEGIMG_9996.thumb.JPEG.d310c4f184ffacea68f59898504b7ea5.JPEG

Side note: giving the ISOTunes Air Defender product a shot. I have normal 3M earmuffs which are decent and ISOTunes in-ear protectors, but they're not comfortable together. These new ones seem good so far!

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

Had a few days in Poole the year before last, you haven't missed much. LP looks fab, looking forward to seeing it carved.  

It looks lovely on Google, however I can imagine it's a tourist trap these days

 

Cream binding is on order from StewMac, because Rothko & Frost didn't have the 6mm in stock and SM actually ended up being cheaper. We're going for 14 x 2mm on the body and 6 x 1.5mm on the fingerboard. Plenty to do before it arrives...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Only a very small update for this weekend. I've been unwell for a few days and also diagnosing a problem with my little CNC router, so minor tasks completed.

New StewMac items arrived! Looking forward to gettting these both to the same stage, so I can do the tenon shoulder fitting twice in a row.

3D204CF8-4154-40BF-A58A-FC9B5046D56D.thumb.jpg.dbf22ef9433ad93c1e123df501853d85.jpg

The CNC issue was a bit of a headscratcher, until I eventually reproduced it. The Arduino Uno microcontroller basically corrupted the GRBL command interpreter. After flashing a couple of different versions and eventually finding the original on a USB stick from the original kit manufacturer (before I modified it), he came back to life! I was trying to vacuum up some swarf mid run and created the same problem again - it was caused by starting the cordless vac too close to the microcontroller!

Anyway, quick prototype of my neck alignment jig. I'll make this properly with a new design and stock, because the bushings are pushing out of the plywood at the sides. It's just a mirrored array of 8mm bushings with 5mm ID - 5mm holes for the neck, fingerboard, and all of my other jigs, with 5mm delrin to cut down to ~6mm. Holes are placed for 25.5" and 24.75" scale, avoiding fret slots. There are holes for necks with full or narrow tenons (a la Les Paul).

Also, LP cover prep:

IMG_0101.thumb.JPEG.5202e0ce8a1fb5731c4451444e1cb086.JPEG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said:

That Obeche (which I had never seen or heard of before this thread) looks really nice, what's it like price-wise? is it easy to find in the UK? 

It seems pretty nice so far! It’s very light and works easily, but that also means it marks easily - kind of like a lightweight alder.

This blank was £40 from Exotic Hardwoods. I was looking for something cheap and lightweight, whilst also having interesting enough aesthetics to keep natural.

https://exotichardwoodsukltd.com/product/obeche-body-blank-20-x-7-x-2-2-pieces/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Stu. said:

It seems pretty nice so far! It’s very light and works easily, but that also means it marks easily - kind of like a lightweight alder.

This blank was £40 from Exotic Hardwoods. I was looking for something cheap and lightweight, whilst also having interesting enough aesthetics to keep natural.

https://exotichardwoodsukltd.com/product/obeche-body-blank-20-x-7-x-2-2-pieces/

Maybe it's just the sanding scratches but it looks fairly open-grained on the pics, like a slightly yellow mahogany. 

dents/scratches when working softer woods is annoying, I've taken to iron the backs of my bodies with a damp tea-towel prior to getting the oribital sander out to expand all the marks, I do a lot more work with a towel down on the workbench that I used to as well. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said:

Maybe it's just the sanding scratches but it looks fairly open-grained on the pics, like a slightly yellow mahogany. 

Oh, it’s super open and roughs up just like mahogany. There are basically no sanding scratches on the back of the body, just open grain. 

It’s a fraction of the weigh of mahogany though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

43 minutes ago, Stu. said:

Oh, it’s super open and roughs up just like mahogany. There are basically no sanding scratches on the back of the body, just open grain. 

It’s a fraction of the weigh of mahogany though.

yeah I was just looking at it on wooddatabase. On spec it looks very similar to african mahogany, about 2/3 the hardness and 3/4 the weight. I think it could be really well suited for a solid-body with TV finish, I think I'll get some!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

yeah I was just looking at it on wooddatabase. On spec it looks very similar to african mahogany, about 2/3 the hardness and 3/4 the weight. I think it could be really well suited for a solid-body with TV finish, I think I'll get some!

Good luck! I’m pleased so far, although now I’m worried that it’ll be neck-heavy with ovangkol.

 

I popped out to my workshop this afternoon for boring tasks. First was sorting through offcuts, ready to get rid of most of the softwood and awkward little pieces of hardwood.

Second was setting up my ‘new’ bench planer. I took a punt on the Rutlands premium bench planer during a 24 hour flash sale. It’s a bit of a nightmare and left me wanting to collect my ~40kg SIP bench  model with cast iron tables from Gloucestershire. This thing is light, but blade setting was infuriating to the extreme and getting the tables co-planer is going to test my limits.

There are four screws and nuts inside to set the left and right planes of movement, and then three nuts to tension the infeed table against them.

Tomorrow will be a rollercoaster.

2A39E495-F43B-4367-8BCC-CB3111E33A52.thumb.jpeg.3525ef65c833fce5f456b2ea41349069.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bench planer is back together and the tables are mostly parallel. I ended up essentially setting it to a fixed 0.5mm depth of cut, because any adjustment takes it out of alignment. I’m actually tempted to try returning it now, but I’ll try with a homemade fence first.

Just a bit of neck blank prep this afternoon. Ovangkol for the LP without needing ears, and then ovangkol/birdseye maple for another build.

CF7E3639-F79A-4122-A0F1-ABAEF6755D06.thumb.jpeg.d635b2bf97dadd6889bf9de0b0ace300.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like to hijack my own threads and I’ve been preparing another neck blank in the background. I glued it up, cut/planed the scarf, and then glued again. After taking the clamps off today, it was painfully obvious that the scarf crept during clamping. I’ve added the ears, however I’m on the fence about whether to re-cut and fix the alignment. 
 

What do you guys think?

97F66729-8DC2-494C-BDDF-1A08D6E8F6BB.thumb.jpeg.4183bc23052da25d7b584a78231186dd.jpeg
 

BB5ECEA3-068D-4CFC-B201-29AD642863B5.thumb.jpeg.e6b391c5335ef7ba9264b54e5d302ccb.jpeg

 

5BCCE7ED-95E9-44DE-B189-1DC9A77F2776.thumb.jpeg.fef053cd7d1dd858cb4f8edff3b14af6.jpeg

 

2D958F94-FE59-498B-B83B-427379BFCA3D.thumb.jpeg.60196907b6c8ca7cd5fc735a02e9696c.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...