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Resin inlay test


Mahelcaya

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Ok I going to attempt (not on a guitar for now, on a scrap of wood ) a inlay with EPOXY resin , I stressed out the guy at the paint shop, and this is what we ended up with:

I add some white chalk powder in the epoxy , then add the catalyst ( dunno if that is correct spelling .... ) , and fill the routed cavity, wait various hours, and once dried up i sand it down to wood level.

I will try to pigment the white resin with universal color pigments, and see what comes out.

Anybody try this yet?

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I was hoping it would polish out clear and smooth. I inlayed some blue stained abalone. Countersunk them into the fretboard and then filled with epoxy. Couldn't sand the abalone because that beautiful blue would get sanded off. I glued the inlay in using epoxy mixed with rosewood dust and then covered with clear epoxy. Some spots turned out ok, others not so ok. But I never had any shrinkage problems. However, the epoxy isn't as crystal clear as I hoped.

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Ok I sanded down the excess resin, down to wood level, I took a Picture of it , the color was bright red, untill I added the catalizer , it darkend a lot (almost purple) . I think I'll need to fill a bit the grain before pouring the dyed resin, because the pigment filtered a bit around the edges of the routed cavity.

The inlay is real smooth , I think I'll practice a little more, and probably soon try to inlay a guitar body.

Does anyone know what finish will apply well on the resin?

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That also helps to speed up the dry time

yes it does. however, i'd suggest waiting for the resin to cure naturally so as to avoid rippling, splattering, or forcing dust/hair into it. i've always waited for the resin to become solid, yet tacky, to use a hair dryer.

and another tip: if you're having problems with air bubbles in your resin you can build a vibration table. simply clamp your [object to be filled with resin] to a piece of plywood and lay on a level surface (i suspend it between two sawhorses). then take the sandpaper off your orbital sander, turn it on, and press against the plywood. voila! the vibrations shake the structure forcing air bubbles in the resin to rise.

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Pics I did another test, this time no chalk in the blend, I filled a bit the pores with shellac before pouring the resin, but still a bit of pigment bleeding...... :D

And did not put enough resin on the inlay, as u can see and probably my desk table is not flat straight

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I am using Epoxy resin with universal waterbase concetrated pigments, the resul is great , dunno about poliester resin, never tried it, I need some strong porefiller for the sides , shellac does not seem to do it properly...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am looking for some glow in the dark paint ( fluorescent may be the name...dunno) to blend with the resin. For now I am testing the opaque pigments, I have some alluminium fine dust to blend in for metallic effect, and I tried some thick bronze color metallic waterbase thick paste (WOW that was long).

Post pics , I am interested in the subject ! :D

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Pics of a Epoxy resin with alluminium powder, blended toghether, it has a few handcoats of shellac. ..... Still need to seal better the grain before pouring the resin.....any suggestions?

I would fill the grain with filler, and then shoot a coat or two of lacquer over it all BEFORE routing the inlay area. That'll stop the epoxy getting into the grain.

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looks NICE ! :D

Pouring the resin on a glass mirror will make it uniformly flat like a sheet of paper or veneer, or did you do something in particular like fine sanding it before peeling it off the glass?

What do you use for hardner? Are you talking about a product that is not the catalyst?

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