Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted April 4, 2004 Report Share Posted April 4, 2004 nice....got pics? i see a pic yeah well....it didnt load earlier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibum5545 Posted April 4, 2004 Report Share Posted April 4, 2004 Go to Lowes or a Hardwood dealer and get a Freud. For $2 more, its worth peace of mind. Bosch bits arent bad, I just reccomend Freuds. Freud bits are INCREDIBLE!!! Use them, they're worth the extra money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted April 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2004 I took the viper bit back to HD and went across the street to Lowes and got the Freud bit and Freud forstner bits as well. STILL waiting on the bridge. I'm experimenting on alder scrap with a few oil finishes in the meantime. I've tried Tru-oil, Tung-oil and Danish oil. I just got done sprayin the first coat of clear polly-u over the Danish oil. The Tru-oil builds up nicely with a deep 3-D grain finish but I see a few lumps that I have to sand out after each coat even though I strain the Tru-oil before use. I need to get some finer grits and polish the Tru-oil to get the shine back after sanding these out. Otherwise it's my favorite so far. The Tung-oil seems to work pretty good but I'm waiting to get 4 or 5 coats to see how well it builds up. Not sure yet about the Danish oil until after the clear dries and is sanded. All three give a similar shade of wood color with the Danish oil being just a tad darker. Once I'm done with the results of all three I'll post pics since I have a hard time finding good pics on the net. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted May 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 YaY! Got my Dimarzio PAFs from Brian today! I've decided that since I want a carve outta this 15/16" piece of flame, and since it still needs to be bookmatched and planed, I'm going to do a flip join instead. The flame is pretty consistent all the way through so it will still look bookmatched AND I'll keep the thickness I want for a nice deep carve. Also, I'll be staining it either blue burst or dark red burst with natural binding. All my hardware is gold. STILL waiting on my darn hipshot babygrand bridge from stew-mac though. I have VERY little finishing skills (read alot of info though) so anyone have advice on which would be easier (if there's a difference in difficulty), blue burst or a dark red burst? BTW...alder back w/ flame maple top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 Looking great!! Now that you're adding a carved top, are you going to thickness plane the main part of the body down to size, or are you just going to go thick-ass guitar, all around? Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted May 1, 2004 Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 I'd say the red would be easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted May 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2004 Looking great!! Now that you're adding a carved top, are you going to thickness plane the main part of the body down to size, or are you just going to go thick-ass guitar, all around? Greg I'll thickness plane it. I don't want it too thick since I'm deciding not to chamber it. I'm not sure if it's true but I've been told by another builder that when the body is too thick the string vibration transfer vibrates through the neck but when it gets to a really thick body it's like hitting a brick wall. I'm thinking 2" at the thickest point should be good. Thoughts on that anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 2, 2004 Report Share Posted May 2, 2004 Beats me, but that sounds good... it's what I went with, though without any specific reason other than it made for a nice round number. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted May 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2004 I'm not sure if it's true but I've been told by another builder that when the body is too thick the string vibration transfer vibrates through the neck but when it gets to a really thick body it's like hitting a brick wall. I'm thinking 2" at the thickest point should be good. Thoughts on that anyone? I just wanted to clarify...I talked again to this builder and he said it's not the string vibrations (*SLAP*). When the top of the pocket in the neck route to the back of the body/neck pocket is too thick, your hand can hit it like a brick wall if it doesn't have an all access neck joint. So...I thickness planed the body down and got the maple top planed & flip joined up this weekend. I'll glue up the top to the body probably tomorrow. It'll be just under 2" at the thickest point by the time I carve the top. BTW...I've decided to use a walnut stain and sand back a little then use tru-oil over it since the test scraps came out so nice. ...and I've totally wimped out on the dye and laquer finish I just don't trust myself but my stained and tru-oiled scraps came out really nice so I'm not too dissappointed with myself (we'll see when it's done, hehe) I finally got my bridge in so after I glue the top, I'll route the neck pocket then mount the bridge posts. Then goes the pickup routes and finally the top carve. Pics of my progress soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 10, 2004 Report Share Posted May 10, 2004 Nothing wrong with 'wimping out' as long as the look is something you'll be happy with. Every day that I'm working on my guitar, I think to myself, "I should have started with the LG copy". Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted May 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 I just got done glueing my top to the body......and I think, if I had hair, It'd all be grey. I put down a nice smooth layer of glue on the top and on the body and smoothed it with a credit card. Then I lined it up and started clamping. Everytime I tightened one side the whole thing would slide and shift a little bit. I was stupid and took the risk by not following some advice given to me by a builder friend. He said to use dowels where my pickup and neck routes would be to hold the two pieces together while glueing. My dumbass thought "naw, I can do it". I finally got it but man that was stressful trying to keep it all lined up as I clamped and before the glue set. I hope I don't go out there in an hour to find the two pieces completely misaligned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKGBass Posted May 11, 2004 Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 wait, your bald? God, the whole fonzi thing has really thrown me off pitch. i gotta stop associating people so much with their avatars. I mean, look at mine! Honestly though, when are you gonna have some new pics? I like your work, must see more... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted May 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 Cool Yeah, I need to start taking more pics. I'd be embarassed to show the clamped top with glue oozing out all over the place and some exercise weights layed on the top MKG, just so you know, the earlier pics of the finished guitars are not mine. They are the style I am modeling after so I can't take credit for an original design. I'll go get some pics as soon as I remove the clamps...and clean off some of the excessive glue. I must admit I'm VERY happy with how well the two piece top glued up. Barely a visible line. Anyways, thanks for the encouragement and pics will be up within the next day or two. I left the top clamped for several hours and it seemed fine. I even left the top and body clamped together while waiting to glue so the top wouldn't warp. Any advice as to how long I should leave it clamped? oh, yeah I'm bald as a bowling ball. Lost it at 15 but the fiance likes it and I stay cool in the summer, hehe. BTW, MKG your HOT!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted May 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 Ok, don't say I didn't warn you I'm prepared for the backlash. Anyways, here's a newbie hack glueing the flame maple top to an alder body. I wished I had more clamps...obviously I just rough cut the shape out of the maple and after the glue sets I'll use the alder body as a template for the final top shape. I thought this would prevent any slipping when routing the top. YaY! neighboor just saved the day with more clamps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted May 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 Here's the hardware that will go on it: A Hipshot Babygrand Bridge & 2 Dimarzio Virtual PAFs (Dimarzio's from Brian at universaljems.com...cheapest and best service anywhere ) The maple strip on the left was finished (3/4 of it) with just tru-oil (about 6 coats). The maple strip on the right was finished (3/4) with diluted walnut stain then tru-oil. The square of maple in the middle is unfinished and I will probably make that my control cavity cover. The small pic shows the scrap of alder behind the pick-ups finished with Formby's tung-oil. I like the stained piece the best because it adds a more 3D effect to the flame. Oil finish samples and hardware Another pic close-up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 11, 2004 Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 Nicely done! I'm looking forward to seeing this one develop! As for the 'hack' thing... I can certainly relate to that, but that's part of why I'm documenting stuff so thoroughly (er... excessively) in my thread; so that complete newbies (meaning, someone who hasn't taken the plunge and made a cut yet... I'm obviously new, too) can share in my triumphs and failures and not feel intimidated by the process. I've already learned from this thread, and I will do something to keep my top and body from shifting around when I glue. You can't get better than that. Nice choice with the hipshot bridge, by the way. It's a nice piece. Greg PS, I am neither chubby nor purple, nor goofy... though that IS one of my 2 electric guitars he's holding in the avatar picture-- a tele-style Pacifica Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted May 11, 2004 Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 Looking good. Keep it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex Luthier Posted May 11, 2004 Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 He said to use dowels where my pickup and neck routes would be to hold the two pieces together while glueing. Yeah, I use 1/16" steel rod. I dry clamp the top in place and drill holes for the rods where the there are cavities, and I also use a caul to clamp, like a piece of MDF or partical board, the thicker the better, to spread out the clamping force. I also do this with fingerboards, drilling the holes for the rods in fret slots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted May 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 I had to learn the hard way that the little 2" x 2" wood squares were not enough to distribute the force Man, I'm just waiting for the "WARNING! THIS THREAD CONTAINS BAD ADVICE" pic to show up under one of my posts Oh well. I'm hooked now and I already have plans for a second guitar. Possibly a neck through with P-90s. Well, after I modify the shape of the free P Bass I got from a friend into something similar to the Flea Modulous bass. The P bass was metallic purple in the middle and burst out to pink I've stripped the top but I need to take some pics of the back before I strip it. It's good for a laugh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted May 11, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 Man! I shoulda had more clamps! There's a small section where I can see a 1/32" gap about 3" long I did learn a few things for my next build though: 1. As Lex & my friend stated, before glueing, drill through the top & into the body at a place where it will be routed later and insert some type of rod or screw to prevent the two pieces from slipping while glueing. This would have saved me ALOT of stress. 2. Use LOTSA clamps and cauls to evenly clamp the two pieces together and prevent any gaps. Several in the middle of the body and lots around the edges. The bearing on my bit had a collet that kept it in place. This collet had a small allen screw that attached it to the shaft of the bit. This leads to: 3. Make sure this allen screw does not stick out further than the bearing. This causes it to cut into the body. File this allen screw down if necessary. (I filed it but after it put a 1/2" long gouge in the body that I had to sand out). BTW, I'm glad I took pics along the way. They will be good reminders of what I did wrong so I won't make the same mistake twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maher Posted May 11, 2004 Report Share Posted May 11, 2004 looking great! more pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted May 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2004 I measured the gap and it's 1/32" wide X around 3 1/2" long. AARGH! Well, I've decided to do be a stained top with a black back anywho so it won't show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted June 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2004 So far so good. Still working on the carve. I've been busy so it's going very slow but I'm in no hurry anyways. I'm VERY happy with the neck pocket. I can pick up the body by just pressing the neck into the pocket. Couldn't slide a piece of paper anywhere between the neck and body I took Myka's advice and routed most of the pocket out then finish with a chisel and sandpaper stuck to a block of maple. Thanks Myka I'm also very happy with the flip join. I was able to keep the thickness I wanted for the carve and the flames still lined up pretty well. I know they don't flow out from the center evenly like a book-matched top but I like it still. I probably jumped the gun a little on the carve but it shouldn't be a problem. I'll still have a flat surface to route the pickup cavities and mount the bridge using my template. Body carve 1 Body carve 2 Body carve 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted June 2, 2004 Report Share Posted June 2, 2004 Holy Shizzle, McDizzle! Dude, that is shaping up -NICE!- ...and I agree w/ Litch, yellow-red-brown types of 'bursts seem to go easier than blue, blue can get sideways on ya sometimes for whatever reasons. It just seems harder for me to do a blueburst that knocks me out on the first try as the other, which I can nail pretty well on the first go most of the time now. Can't really explain why, but there it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted June 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2004 Thanks Drak! Yeah, I was worried if I didn't get the blue right it might look cheap and crappy like washed out jeans so I'm thinking tobacco burst or sunburst. For the carve I just routed 3 steps. One around the outside about a 1/2" wide down to the final depth and the last two 1/2" increments toward the center. This made it easy to carve the contours without accidentally taking away any wood from the outside final depth. I want to do natural binding. I just keep making this harder on myself Ya know?! That upper left corner bothers me. The flame just dies out but....I wonder how a steer head would look carved into it, Eh Drak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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