GregP Posted April 5, 2004 Report Share Posted April 5, 2004 Alrighty, then... here are the first from what's sure to be a long string of questions I'd love to know the answers to. A lot of my questions revolve around trying to save a bit of money. I'm certainly not wanting to "nickel and dime" my project, but if I can save between $2 and $30 per item, depending on the item, I could end up shaving about a hundred bucks off my guitar, which can be rolled into my next one! 1. Chrome vs. Nickel: Well, if you put them side-by side, you can see that Chrome is more mirror-like or silvery, while Nickel has a vaguely yellowish haze to it. Or is it just me? In any case, in the long run is there any reason not to mix and match chrome and nickel parts? Ie. Would chrome pickup covers with nickel tuners look naff? 2. Tune-O-Matic and fretboard radius: Without getting a fancy fully adjustable TOM, the standard seems to be that they are 12" radius. If I want to have a flatter radius for my fretboard (15"), will the TOM throw off the strings too much, or is it negligible? Does it even matter at all? 3. Locking vs. non-locking tuners: I know, it should SEEM self-evident... but aside from the whiz-bang factor of Locking tuners, is there any *compelling* reason to get them on a non-trem guitar? 4. Where should I go for paints/finishes in Canada? Stew-Mac, etc., don't ship those kinds of things up here. In the end, I want a durable mirror finish on a gloss black instrument. 5. What the heck is Bolteron , and why is it so cheap if it's marketed as a brand name? Since binding in general is so cheap, I don't need to save any money here, but I'm still curious since regardless of price, it could be the right binding for the job. 6. My top will be carved (if I don't mess it up! <g>) from a 5/8" piece. That's pretty thick... will it be a HUGE headache to use normal-threaded potentiometers, or should I suck it up and pay 3X the price for those long-threaded ones? 7. For those who use LMI pre-slotted fretboards, it seems like their slot size is .21, but the fretwire they recommend as "standard for Gibson/Fender" is .23, so how the heck is it going to fit into those slots? 8. Has anybody ever seen any speed knobs in chrome or silver? The LMI site has a B&W photo of a "black" one, but the way the photo turned out it looked silverish instead, which I thought was great. Too bad it was just a bad photo. 9. The normal LMI 2-way rod (they also have a pimped out one) is cheaper than the StewMac Hot Rod; however the Hot Rod has some rubbery crud around the metal-- wouldn't the $2 be well spent for the sake of clang-prevention, or has anyone had good success with the LMI rod? I think that's about it for now. Feel free to answer any or all of the above questions. I'm not in a rush or anything (well, except for maybe the fretboard), so I have the luxury of time in making informed decisions. Thanks a bunch, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted April 5, 2004 Report Share Posted April 5, 2004 4. Where should I go for paints/finishes in Canada? Stew-Mac, etc., don't ship those kinds of things up here. In the end, I want a durable mirror finish on a gloss black instrument. It depends on what type of material you'd like to use and what sort of equipment you have available. I'm sure there are more options if you have a compressor/sprayer setup. But if you are a rattle can guy like me and want to use laquer, ya better scramble to the autobody supply stores. I learned that many of the stores near me (in Victoria, BC) won't be carrying laquer in rattlecans anymore. The basic reason I was given is because it takes roughly three times the number of laquer coats to attain the same thickness as one coat of enamel. There is simply no demand for it in autobody application anymore. I guess there are also environmental reasons if you look at the big picture. I managed to scoop the last of the high gloss clear laquer (2 lousy cans) from a few of those places and got one can of semi-gloss black, but thats it. I guess it will be back to polyurethane when that stuff is gone. Also, if you need paint go to the paint store. Most of those guys are pros and if you tell them what you want to do and what kind of results you are looking for they might be able to fix you up. And hopefully they won't tell you that you have to buy the whole gallon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeB Posted April 5, 2004 Report Share Posted April 5, 2004 2. Tune-O-Matic and fretboard radius: Without getting a fancy fully adjustable TOM, the standard seems to be that they are 12" radius. If I want to have a flatter radius for my fretboard (15"), will the TOM throw off the strings too much, or is it negligible? Does it even matter at all? if you decide to have a 15" fretboard eith a 12" bridge your action will suffer, making it quite high. You would get a better playing guitar, and lower action with a 12" on a 12". Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbkim Posted April 5, 2004 Report Share Posted April 5, 2004 2. Tune-O-Matic and fretboard radius: Without getting a fancy fully adjustable TOM, the standard seems to be that they are 12" radius. If I want to have a flatter radius for my fretboard (15"), will the TOM throw off the strings too much, or is it negligible? Does it even matter at all? if you decide to have a 15" fretboard eith a 12" bridge your action will suffer, making it quite high. You would get a better playing guitar, and lower action with a 12" on a 12". Mike Or you could file down the string notches on the TOM saddles to match the 15" radius . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john Posted April 5, 2004 Report Share Posted April 5, 2004 3. Locking vs. non-locking tuners: I know, it should SEEM self-evident... but aside from the whiz-bang factor of Locking tuners, is there any *compelling* reason to get them on a non-trem guitar? YES, oh god YES! they make a big difference to the tuning stability. Crazy String Bends dont put the guitar out of tune(much). also, re-stringing you guitar is made really really easy! i`d say they are worth every penny. my €0.02 euro. john. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsl602000 Posted April 5, 2004 Report Share Posted April 5, 2004 3. Locking vs. non-locking tuners: I know, it should SEEM self-evident... but aside from the whiz-bang factor of Locking tuners, is there any *compelling* reason to get them on a non-trem guitar? I'd say no. I'm a heavy bender and my guitars stay in tune pretty good. I use hard tail strats... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted April 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2004 Thanks a bunch for the replies so far! One of the questions has been made moot today-- I went to the local guitar shop and bought a set of Grover Rotomatics, which are non-locking. I have to agree about the easier string changing... I've never had locking tuners, but that was one of the main reasons I wanted them; however, since the Rotomatics were the right price, I just grabbed'em. Regarding fretboard radius-- at the same guitar shop, one of the techs offered the same advice about filing down the saddles on the TOM, and offered to either file it down for me or at least let me use his files so that I can do it myself. I know that my Godin LG has a 15" fingerboard, but it seems to be a standard Schaller TOM, so I'm wondering if they've filed them, or if they have 15" TOM specially made for them. Hmm... So far, I'm inclined to just get the 12" fretboard. To be absolutely COMPLETELY honest with you, it doesn't make a HUGE difference to me, but I do somewhat prefer flatter fingerboards. Southpa: thanks for that info. I'll take a trip over to some auto shops this week and see if I can snag some. Regarding finishes in general-- I have access to my father's air compressor (dunno what it's rated, but he uses it for his car tires...?) but I don't have a spray nozzle or a booth. Would it be worthwhile getting a nozzle and then make-shifting a booth? Alternatively, although I'd ideally like to do as much of the work on the guitar as possible, there's a custom motorcycle-painting shop just up the road. I wonder how much it'd cost to do, and if he'd have the appropriate finishes. Any opinions on #1? It may seem like a minor thing, but now that I have nickel tuners, I'm tempted to try to track down nickel pickup covers. I've found plenty of chrome, but I don't recall having seen nickel anywhere around. Cheers, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted April 7, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2004 Shameful bump. I could still use opinions on questions 1, 5, and 6 if anybody has anything to share. Thanks a bunch, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibum5545 Posted April 7, 2004 Report Share Posted April 7, 2004 On 1, I would say that you're the one judging the look, if you're satified with them being slightly diff colors, go for it. However, there are plenty of sources for chrome hardware, I would say just stick to chrome. Or you could just go for black pup covers... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted April 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2004 I definitely hear you about the plentitude of chrome hardware. However, I now have nickel tuners. <grin> Seems pretty hard to source nickel covers, though there are some nickel TOMs around. Cheers for the reply! Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithHowell Posted April 8, 2004 Report Share Posted April 8, 2004 6. My top will be carved (if I don't mess it up! <g>) from a 5/8" piece. That's pretty thick... will it be a HUGE headache to use normal-threaded potentiometers, or should I suck it up and pay 3X the price for those long-threaded ones? Get Pots with long enough shafts and normal threaded. Then mount them on a thin piece (1/16'' 1.5mm) of aluminium which you can secure inside your cavity with a few screws and just the shafts will stick out the top. Earth the metal plate and it will help your sheilding as well. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strange Fruit Posted April 8, 2004 Report Share Posted April 8, 2004 Seems pretty hard to source nickel covers, though there are some nickel TOMs around. Erm, Brian sells them on universal Jems. Scroll down to Humbucker covers, their the first ones Nickel Covers the holes are for 1-15/16" pole piece spacing, but if thats not right for your pick ups, then he also sells ones without holes! He also sells Gotoh TOMs in nickel. HTH Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted April 8, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2004 Heh! Well there you have it. I was trying to avoid sourcing parts from multiple suppliers, but if it means getting what I want rather than just 'making do' then I don't mind. Now that I've seen the ones with no holes, I'm wondering if it will look unique or horrible. I love mini-hums with no holes, but I'm not sure about full-sized hums. I know that ultimately it's a decision I'll have to make on my lonesome, but as usual, opinions are welcome. As for the pots, I used the wrong term ... 'long threaded'... what the hell is that? I meant long-shafted, and I can reasonably assume that your recommendation is to just shell out for the longer shaft. Fair enough. I just wish I knew why on earth they were 3X as expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted April 8, 2004 Report Share Posted April 8, 2004 Concerning the radius issue: It's of course true that the ideal case is to have everything match exactly. From what I have experienced and read, if you are within 2 inches you will not likely notice. I don't remember the actual difference in action but I think it's around 1/64"? I recently changed a 12" board to a 14" just to see how much wood is lost and how difficult it is. It turned out pretty nice but I have a feeling changing the bridge radius would be easier (no experience with doing that with TOM bridges). Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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