LukeR Posted August 29, 2004 Report Share Posted August 29, 2004 Hi, Exactly what I hoped to hear Thanks again, Setch. Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyunsu Posted August 31, 2004 Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 (edited) Wow .. realy good job... wonderfull.. Setch. what do you job? i'm computer programmer.. 32 years old.. Edited August 31, 2004 by hyunsu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted August 31, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 I work behind the counter in an off licence (liquor store/bottle shop/etc). 25 years old. I work part time, and I'm always amazed by the amount of work you fit it on top of a fulltime job - very impressive! Thanks for the kind words. The neck is carved now, grain filler's been applied, and I've sealed and colour coated the back. It's looking very sweet. More pictures very soon, but my photo uploading/editing computer is offline at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jivin Posted August 31, 2004 Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 Hey Setch, I've been meaning to ask, since this is your thrread, could you please post some more pics of the guitar in your avatar? It looks awesome Like a PRS with white EMG's Puhhlease - Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotrock Posted August 31, 2004 Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 Hey Setch, I've been meaning to ask, since this is your thrread, could you please post some more pics of the guitar in your avatar? It looks awesome Like a PRS with white EMG's Puhhlease - Dan Yeah, I'll second that. That guitar is the reason for my double cut. I likey a lot. Next time I'm down in London, lock your doors because I'm afraid that I'm going to have to pinch it. errr, did I say that out loud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted August 31, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2004 You can expect some more shot's of that guitar soon(ish). It was my first carved top, and as such it isn't nearly as well carved as the two that have followed it. Pretty soon I plan to strip it down, recarve the top, re-bind it, and tweak the neck angle so I don't have to jack the bridge up so far. In the interests of keeping all the pics in one place I'll wait till I begin that project before posting the 'before' shots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www Posted September 1, 2004 Report Share Posted September 1, 2004 That LP is looking really great as always, Setch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted September 1, 2004 Report Share Posted September 1, 2004 (edited) Great looking guitar Setch. I'm a cherry-burst man myself, but that is a really nice looking brown-burst. I love LPs, so solid. Does the CA form a good chemical bond with the StewMac binding like the binding glue does? I'd love to get away from that airplane glue... And you taped the binding first, THEN wicked in the CA? Did you need to tighten up the tape afterward? Edited September 1, 2004 by erikbojerik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted September 1, 2004 Report Share Posted September 1, 2004 Hello there I am new here but I've been watching for a while and so far what I have seen is very cool!! Although the Les Paul style is a bit more conservative then what I would go for I found the quality of your work amazing. I've only been building guitars for 3 years and I am just starting to try my hand at buiding necks. Usually I only design and build the bodies with parts I buy but I've decided to put aside my fear and try the necks now. I had only been working on it for awhile when I found your photos and you would not believe how much they have helped and inspired me. Oh yeah by the way I am building a custom 7 string fretless neck to go with the newest design I have. I call the guitar 'The Razor' I will post some pics as soon as I can get some taken. I look forward to talking to you in the future and getting your feedback on my designs. thanks '!!METAL MATT!!' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skr4ped Posted September 2, 2004 Report Share Posted September 2, 2004 How exactly do you "wick" glue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jer7440 Posted September 2, 2004 Report Share Posted September 2, 2004 (edited) Super glue ,or CA glue, or cyanoacrelate (spelling) comes in at least 3 different consistencies. Thick, medium, and thin. If you use the thin variety (thin like water) and apply right to the joint line of the 2 pieces you are gluing together, the joint will actually "suck up" or wick the glue into itself. I had one question about doing this, doesn't the CA stain the fingerboard? Does this scrape off? Setch, awsome build man! Thanks for all the detailed pics. Edited September 2, 2004 by jer7440 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted September 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2004 I scrape the binding flush, which removes 90% of the glue, and any left over is sanded away. If there happened to be the odd bit still around it is removed when I level the inlays with a radius block. The CA can soak into the end grain of the maple top, so I'd recommend sealing the binding channel with a wash coat of shellac. This will all be sanded away when you finish sand the sides and top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jer7440 Posted September 3, 2004 Report Share Posted September 3, 2004 Setch, I was wondering if you could elaborate a little more on carving the neck angle and "pickup plane". I've read in the past that the neck angle for a LP is about 4 deg. How do you know how deep to carve this angle? Also what angle is the "pickup plane"? These questions might sound silly, but I am trying to create a 3d model of a LP top in a CAD program. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aidlook Posted September 3, 2004 Report Share Posted September 3, 2004 Holy crap that´s a sweet lookin´guitar...looks kinda like the new slash signature...wish I could build guitars like that...well gotta get started with my first project and maybe I´ll be able some day... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill-Murray Posted September 3, 2004 Report Share Posted September 3, 2004 Dude awesome, how did you know how much to carve??? Do you have plans or an LP on you?? Or did you just go with the flow and do what feels best? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted September 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2004 Setch, I was wondering if you could elaborate a little more on carving the neck angle and "pickup plane". I've read in the past that the neck angle for a LP is about 4 deg. How do you know how deep to carve this angle? Also what angle is the "pickup plane"? These questions might sound silly, but I am trying to create a 3d model of a LP top in a CAD program. Neck angles generate a lot of questions and seem to confuse a lot of folks, but they're really very easy to understand. I find out the angle I require following the process described by Melvyn Hiscock in Make Your Own Electric Guitar. If you don't already have a copy, I suggest you get one post-haste, it's essential reading. The depth of the angle is simple - it has to start at the top of the binding. I use my drawing to work out where the angle ends, and join these two points. Likewise, the pickup plane is simply the angle created by joining the end of the fretboard and the bridge - I have no idea what angle it is... Dude awesome, how did you know how much to carve??? Do you have plans or an LP on you?? Or did you just go with the flow and do what feels best? I have a body template. I also know the depth of the carve is 1/2". From there is simply a case of carving the top so the transition from full thickness in the middle to 1/4" at the edge is gracefull and smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northendem Posted September 6, 2004 Report Share Posted September 6, 2004 Dying to see the finished project dude But man, I feel retarded after seeing what you can do man!! I really want to start building guitars, you do excellent work. Where do you gyus learn this stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted September 9, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2004 If anyone should be wearing the retarded hat right now, it's me. Yesterday night, whilst preparing to fix a minor sandthrough on the colour coat, I dropped the guitar on the concrete floor of my garage. It picked up a nasty dent/scratch on the lower bass bout, and took the brunt of the fall on the end of the head stock. I cried (seriously, I did, I was absolutely gutted) The body was being clearcoated, and I'd just got to the point where the colour coat ridge around the binding was smoothed out - I was about 3 clear coats from being finished, so the idea of totally stripping and refinishing didn't appeal at all. Fortunately, after steaming out the dent, the body ding looks like it can be fixed invisibly, and the headstock will be stripped, and either veneered or tapered slightly to remove the damaged area. Working without an 'undo' button sucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themikestro Posted September 9, 2004 Report Share Posted September 9, 2004 I feel your pain, I only ever seem to do dumb things once the whole project is near completion! Have a virtual pat on the back and a "there-there" from me and good luck in getting it fixed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotrock Posted September 9, 2004 Report Share Posted September 9, 2004 That sucks dude. I feel for you. Could be worse, you could have just drilled three holes in your 4A quilted top (insert little whistling "wasn't me" avatar) Good luck on the repair Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannoG Posted September 9, 2004 Report Share Posted September 9, 2004 Ouch. I imagine all of us make mistakes, I know I do (too many). You'll make the repairs and they'll be good work, I'm sure. Sounds like your construction was pretty solid to limit damage to cosmetics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
american_jesus Posted September 10, 2004 Report Share Posted September 10, 2004 oooh man...that's a pisser...hopefully everything comes out fine..it's such a beautiful guitar... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeR Posted September 15, 2004 Report Share Posted September 15, 2004 Im sure you will get it all ironed out, Setch. Hope its all smooth going for you from now on though! Luke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicksguitar Posted September 15, 2004 Report Share Posted September 15, 2004 I think I speak for everyone when I say tha tI feel for you man... It's almost like dropping your kid on its head. Good luck with the fixes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted September 19, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2004 Thanks to everyone for the pep talk, sorry that I've been slacking off on the updates. The image uploading/processing PC is back online, so here's where I left off last time. Now that the neck is glued in, and the fretboard attached attached and scraped flush, it's time to shape the back of the neck. The guitar is clamped firmly to the workbench ready for me to start work. I remove the corners on either side of the neck, leaving flat 45 degree facets along the whole length of the neck. I do my best to keep these flat and level. I keep removing the corners until the neck is curved nicely, leaving the area in the centre of the neck and the very edges by the fretboard untouched. This ensures I don't alter the width or depth of the neck accidentally. Once I'm close to final shape I smooth the corners at the fretboard edge, and switch to sanding to achieve final dimensions. I use a long flat block to keep the neck straight, and a shorter semi-hard block once I get to smaller grits (220 - 400). Here's how it looks after all the sanding is done: Now, a bit of a leap. I've grain filled and sealed the guitar, using a dark brown waterbased grain filler, and thinned plastic coating to seal. I then masked the top, fretboard and all the binding, and shot my colour coats, using red aniline dye disolved in a 70/30 mix of thinners and plastic coating. At this point I was bitten by rushing - my grain filling wasn't good enough, and I had a lot of pores unfilled. I tried a few heavy clear coats to see how bad the problem was, and ended up sanding back to bare wood. There was no need to re-fill the grain, since I sanded very sparingly, and first attempt at colour and clear had filled most of the open pores. After carefull clean up, I reshot the colour coats, this time getting a nice smooth surface ready for clearing. After about 5 coats of clear all over, I applied clear plastic coating to the bindings by hand, to help fill the ridge from the colour coats, and sanded this back to level. I also sanded through my colour coat on the front, and dropped the guitar on a concrete floor, but I don't recommend these steps... it took a long time to fix the result of trying to work when I was tired and grumpy, but here's the result. The colour around the neck - this looks *way* to bright, red is tough to photograph well, the real deal is nice and dark, but with the grain clearly visible, not washed out as it appears here. And here she is full length. Tomorrow I'll take her down to the workshop at my former Uni' and drill for the stoptail studs, which I'll fit before applying more clear. Edit... Looking down: Aaaaaw..... you guys.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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