Floys Rose question...

[Jupiter]

Hey guys!

I have a Floyd Rose-equipped 7-string, and i've recently found nearly perfect action on it. The only problem is, the low B string rattles a LOT pretty much up to the 8th fret or so, and the low E has a tiny bit of buzz to it. The low E i can deal with, but i need to fix the low B... Is there a way i can tweak the height of just the low B? Or am i stuck with adding some frontbow to the neck, and affecting the other strings?

Please help!

Ben

[BeAR]

Id prolly just shim the low B string with a slip of thin card or paper. Cut slightly smaller than the area between the bridge and the bottom of the saddle and you wont even see it. Ive done this before and it definately doesnt affect the tone transfer. Or if it does its not audibly noticable. Should raise the srring enough to get rid of the buzz.

[Jupiter]

Hmm, okay, sounds good. But where does the shim go? Under the actual saddle on the bridge? How do you lift the saddle up?

Thanks!

Ben

[rhoads56]

Shimming?? huh??

Why not just adjust the saddle height for those strings that buzz?? Adding a sheet of cardboard under a saddle will only deaden the sustain.

Did you adjust the saddles to get the action right, or the posts??

[BeAR]

huh? Height adjustment on a Floyd saddle?

Never seen that before. Ive got a floyd, floyd 2, and lo-pro and none of them have individual saddle height adjustments. What am I missing here? Each saddle is a different height to match the curvature of the fret board but thats as far as it goes.

Height is set by the posts, on every locking trem I have. And I defy anyone to pick the tonal difference with a slip of paper 1cm square under one saddle. Rhodes56 your ears are better than mine!!!!!!

[Scott Rosenberger]

Make a shim out of a piece of Beer can or similar metal and put it under the low b saddle

[rhoads56]

BeAR, i need more sleep, and your 110% correct. Ive just set the intonation on two cheap floyd knock offs, and one kahler, and they all had saddle adjustments. Case of mistaken identity i suppose!!

As for the paper under the saddle... if a jobs worth doing, its worth doing properly. As someone else suggested, cut up a beer can. Only last week someone on this forum (was it this one?)was commenting how his guitar neck had been shimmed with sandpaper.

[_FR0D0]

all old fender guitars had their necks shimmed that way form factory(with sand paper), and people pay big bucks for those guitars...

[Jupiter]

Heh, well, last night after my last post, i just decided to have a go at it! I just kinda did what i thought would work! I blocked the trem and took all of the tension off of the low B first. Next, i used the appropriate allen wrench to undo the saddle lock { never done that before... cool little devices, these Floyd things! }. I slipped a small piece of the thin cardstock from the back of a notebook for my shim. Putting the saddle lock back on was a hassle, let me tell you! But i got it. Tuned up, unblocked the trem, and plugged it in... it reduced the rattle quite a bit! It's still there, but it's not too audible through an amp. But then again, i have a practically straight neck, too. I'll go back and shim it with a piece of metal soon, that sounds like a better idea.

Thanks guys, you all rock!

ben

[westhemann]

this guitar was shimmed on the side of the neck not the bottom.if i paid big bucks for any guitar regardless of the name on it i would expect the tolerances to be tighter than that.i am telling you that the neck pocket on that guitar was a full 1/32 of an inch bigger than the neck.if that doesn't matter to you,by all means spend as much as you want.but tighter tolerances mean more consistant sound and a better feeling instrument.try to remember that some people can hear the difference in a guitar based on temperature and humidity,while the majority of people can't even distinguish between alder and basswood.(big difference trust me)

[_FR0D0]

shimmed on the side of the neck ? oh, thats very nasty to me, I agree 100% with you then.