LGM Guitars

it might be paint runs down a body, but it's not a swirl, it looks more to me like the paint is poured on and "shmeared" down the body with a rag, hence the name, nothing about it looks like a swirl if you ask me.

Doesn't look anything like a swirl to me.

My best advice is do NOT even start doing work for others until you KNOW what you will charge. Airbrushing rates are generally $100 to $150 an hour, BUT, you better be damn good and KNOW what you are doing. If you don't know what to charge, you haven't been doing it long enough to be doing it for customers. Yes, it sounds harsh but backyard painters who don't know what to charge because they don't know what it should cost are the ones who create major problems for painters doing it for a living. Paint adhesion issues, clear issues, never mind work quality that brings upset customers to other painters looking for a cheap fix. There are two things to keep in mind when doing custom airbrush work. Good paint isn't cheap Cheap paint isn't good. If you are serious about this, post a bunch of pictures of your work, then we know where you are. And it can't just be your airbrushing that is good, are you set up to do high build primer? 2 part clear coat? And willing to accept the warranty issues should one arise? If you're going to charge custom graphix prices you have to be SURE of what you are doing in EVERY aspect, if you're not sure please don't get involved, it makes things difficult for everybody. Based on the questions you have asked in your other posts, you are nowhere near ready to start painting guitars for customers, or anything else. It sounds like you aren't experienced with the products. Painting is one thing, painting for customers is an entirely different thing. You have to know your product, be able to trouble shoot, be able to work with it on any surface, and be willing to deal with any issues that may arise. If you haven't learned yet which paints are compatable and which aren't, you have some reading and researching to do. I sprayed probably 60 gallons of paint in practicing before I ever decided to do work for other people. I'm not trying to discourage you, I'm trying to open your eyes to what can be a very unstable and risky business venture. The only painters that succeed in the custom graphix industry are those who know their sh*t. Product and skills.

180 to 220 for a finish to grab onto huh? Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight, there's some more of that great advice. Even solid color paint will show those scratches, if I'm doing a solid color guitar the body is sanded to 600 before paint, if it's a transparent finish it's taken to 1000 before paint or the sanding scratches WILL show. I have no idea why sandpaper would be leaving black marks, I really don't, is it REALLY cheap hardware store sandpaper? Try blowing all the grain out with compressed air as was mentioned. Then get a better sandpaper and resand it, hopefully it's not TO thin.

Godin, Sadly nothing you can do to that booth will make it meet any codes, so what you need to do is make it as safe as possible so that SHOULD anyone complain and an official looks at it, you can at least plead that it's HOBBY only and used rarely and that you didn't realize what had to be done to make it legal. As long as you appear to have researched some and do things correctly things often will be ok. As for the lights, yes, cut an opening in your walls and then use a piece of lexan (plexiglass is fine and easier to find) and screw it to the wall. Then use the aluminum furnace duct tape, not regular duct tape but the aluminum stuff and run it over the seam inside AND out. Then mount your lights outside. This will allow your light in, but there will be NO electrical connections physically inside the booth, that is key! As for your intake fan, yes, I'd get rid of it altogether, if you dont', you will have to put one in that is the same as your exhaust, where the motor is isolated outside of the booth where no fumes could possibly get to it. The problem with what it is, is should the fan ever jam, you now have a working motor in direct fume and overspray. I would get rid of it completely and simply put some furnace filters over the opening, one thick should be fine. Your exhaust is the tricky one. Go to an automotive paint supply store and buy some exhaust filters. They're cheap, a couple bucks each or something. build yourself a frame to hold them and mount that in front of your exhaust fan. Then I would also put another filter behind the fan to catch any particles that may not get trapped in the first one. Your exhaust fan MUST duct to the outside, preferably through the roof of your shop. Ducting it directly into the shop is pointless, it just puts the fumes back in a dangerous area. The door frame really looks like a cord, sorry, didn't realize it was a door frame As for the silicon, it's not dangerous at all, but it contaminates everything. Paint will fisheye like mad if there is ANY residue on what you're painting. The problem with having the silicon in the booth is if you should even wipe against it and then touch what you are painting it will leave residue behind. Silicon and paint never go together, kind of like baking soda and vinegar The biggest issue is going to be getting ALL electrical (lights) outside of the booth. Also, when you run your air lines into the booth, make sure those fittings are sealed to the walls. (I assume you don't have your compressor in the booth!)

oops missed that scott already had ibanez rules in there

Sure ya can, if ya wanna die. A fresh air compressor is a special kind of compressor, more involved than just oil-less. It's a turbine compressor to start with. Unlike a small oil-less compressor you will not breathe any fumes from the heating electrical components etc. Also, you don't want more than about 7psi for your fresh airsystem. Anyway, Godin, I see some serious issues with your booth. First of all, the lights inside like that, I don't care how good you sealed with silicone it's not good enough. ALL electrical HAS to be outside of the booth, ESPECIALLY if you are going to spray laquers. If you are going to spray laquers those plastic covers on your lights are worthless, the solvents will seep right through. You need either glass or lexan. What is the cord hanging down inside the booth on the right hand side? Electrical? or is that an airline? Evacuating the booth once every 30 seconds is not enough in this case. Next, you have NO filters in your exhaust, so you're just sucking the overspray through the fan? You're going to end up with an out of balance fan that is going to eventually shake and rub, sparks possibly. BOOM. Beyond that, why bother with a booth if you're not going to filter the exhaust air? You're just sending the pollutants outside now. If you do run a fresh air system now all you're going to do is end up breathing in the overspray again since the compressor HAS to be outside of the booth. Last of all, SILICONE??????? IN A BOOTH!!!!!!!!!!!! Just coat your walls with oil now. Man, I don't get silicone anywhere withing 100 feet of a paint booth. Even the fumes given off by silicone while curing will cause paint issues. If you had to seal things, you should have just used caulking. I forsee problems, the biggest one being, as soon as you build any sort of permanent makeshift paint booth you are subject to inspections. If an inspector comes along you better be SURE that booth is up to code and as it sits there is nothing in there that would meet code. This is why if you are going to spray 2 part paints you invest in a proper booth, and if you're not, hanging some poly in a room and just using a fan to send the fumes outside is a better way to go in the long run. Sorry to be a downer, but while I appreciate your effort and congratulate you on your ingenuity, I think you are setting yourself up for a rather expensive mistake.

Oops. forgot to mark this one as sold.

Reduced to $1900US shipped. Must sell now, the paint booth electrical bill ended up nearly $2000 MORE than expected!

wow, that is cheap LOL, I've bought tuners that worked ok for $10. Then I can throw it in my case and take it anywhere I want to

Eventide has been sold!

You need a metal surface for powder coating, so a guitar body won't work. Also, the heat needed to cure it would probably cause the wood to crack, if not when it gets hot, then when it cools down and the powder coat would flake if you could even get it to stick at all.

Item for sale: Custom UV77MC Description & Condition: excellent Asking Price: $2150USD + shipping My Location: Abbotsford, BC Terms of Sale/Purchase: Paypal (+3%) international money order in US funds Again with every regret I could have about selling a guitar present, I have to offer this guitar for sale. Due to a deal falling through on the Leviathan 7, one of the two guitars (leviathan or UV) has to go. Xmas bills have smothered me along with the expenses of getting LGM Guitars up and running again and I need some cash now. Here is what this guitar is: Mahogany UV body with grip and claw UV7BK neck, green dots Standard UV parts, Blaze pickups, lo pro edge etc ATD swirl and an amazing swirl that I waited 18 months for. UV1000C case If you are interested please let me know ASAP, only one of the 2 7's will be sold, either this one, or the leviathan 7, once one is sold the other will be taken off the market. Thank you lgm@lgmguitars.com or PM on jemsite. Jeremy http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/collection/UV77MC.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/collection/UV77MC_911.jpg http://pics.lgmguitars.com/pics/UV77MC/IMGP1103.JPG

Item for sale: The very first ever Leviiathan guitar. Prototype #1 In Bloodburst finish with Leviathan tribal inlay. Description & Condition: Excellent Asking Price: $1700USD My Location: Abbotsford, BC Terms of Sale/Purchase: Paypal, certified check, money order. Other Information: Offered again for sale due to a deal falling through, I need to sell a guitar NOW. I have this guitar and my UV77MC up for sale. Once one or the other is sold, the other one will be taken off the market. I hate to sell either one, but xmas bills along with start up costs on the new shop are smothering so one has to go. This guitar has an alder body, maple neck with flame maple board. Floyd rose 7, Evolution 7 bridge and Blaze 7 neck. There are a few slight changes from this guitar to the production model, most noticable are the shape of the pickup routes. The guitar plays incredibly well, has fantastic action and sounds fantastic. Nice string balance all around and you can get an open harmonic off of nearly every single fret on the neck. Comes with certificate stating that this is Leviiathan #1, hardshell case, and dimarzio clip lock strap. If you want a kickass leviiathan, and some real LGM history, this is it. Replacement cost for this guitar as a production instrument would be $2250. I am asking $1700USD No trades please. lgm@lgmguitars.com Jeremy http://www.lgmguitars.com/images/guitars/l...oodburst_01.jpg http://www.lgmguitars.com/images/guitars/l...oodburst_02.jpg http://www.lgmguitars.com/images/guitars/l...eviathan7_1.jpg http://www.lgmguitars.com/images/guitars/l...eviathan7_2.jpg http://www.lgmguitars.com/images/guitars/l...eviathan7_3.jpg

Item for sale: Eventide H3000D/SX harmonizer Description & Condition: Excellent operating condition, good physical condition Asking Price: $950USD My Location: Abbotsford, BC Terms of Sale/Purchase: Paypal, certified check, money order. Other Information: Eventide H3000D/SX harmonizer. I bought this about 5 years ago from Vwall. During shipping the face plate got dented at the top above the keypad but it does not affect performance in any way shape or form. It is COSMETIC ONLY. I paid $1350 plus shipping when I bought it. I had to make up the 4 cables for it as well since Scott kept his for the new Eventide he got. I am asking $950USD for this unit, I just don't play guitar much anymore and use the Eventide even less. If it doesn't sell it's not going to hurt my feelings any. I also have an ART X15 midi controller for this unit if wanted for an additional $130USD. I will ship anywhere, but buyer must pay shipping. contact me at lgm@lgmguitars.com for more info or PM on jemsite. Thanks Jeremy

Where are you located?

Sent you a PM

$50??????????? where? I paid over a grand for mine, yeah it's bigger, but only because the small ones were still $600 to $800 and I couldn't justify buying a small one for just a few hundred less and having it be less useful for multiple tasks over the bigger one.

I built a jig for my T slide on my bandsaw to cut them, clamp the wood and run it through, same T slide fits on my edge sander table to flatten them before gluing, takes less than 5 minutes to have a scarf joint ready for glue and from the ones I've tested, they never break on the glue join, ask Metal Matt, he saw me step on one, broke the wood, but never touched the scarf joint anywhere

Having your blade tension to tight can also cause this. You also have to make sure your blade guides (both side and rear) are adjusted properly without to much slop and not to tight. Last of all, you have to make sure the wheels are adjusted to allow the blade to run true on them, most bandsaws have this adjustment for the top wheel only, but check to make sure if there is an adjustment for the lower wheel as well.

Sweet, I just discovered there is a showroom in Bellingham washington!!!!!!!! I'm only about 30 minutes from there now!!!!!!

Hey Kev, you can blame us for Celine, but it's your INS that allowed her to move to and live in your country HAAHAA!!!!!!! Besides, Celine is just one, when is the US gonna apologize to the world for Britney Spears, Backstreet Boys, N'Sync, MICHAEL JACKSON etc etc etc etc....... LOL Bryan Adams seems to be good at being sued, he was nailed hard a few years ago for not giving credit where credit is due wasn't he? Seems to me he lost a court case for not paying royalties to the people that wrote "everything I do" and "summer of 69" and claiming them as his own songs that he wrote......

No Seriously, read this http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=11008 Chrome finishes, including the Alsa paints.....

I disagree, stickers are a funny thing. You have to remember that your finish will only remain as good as the bond of your stickers. If you put your stickers onto raw wood, the adhesion isn't going to be great. It might be for a while, but it will diminish. When it does, you will likely see what appears to be bubbles in your finish. You want a smooth flat surface to put the stickers on, even then, over time you MAY see them start to lift under the clear causing the bubble look. At the very least, I would seal the wood completely and sand it dead smooth, then I would apply a couple coats of clear. Sand that nice and flat with some 800. Apply your stickers, then clear over them. You'll need a lot of clear and then sanding to make it all level out, then a final coat of clear. If you don't really care about having a perfect finish then by all means, just apply the stickers and clear over them, it won't be perfect but the stickers won't peel off.

http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=11008