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Quarter

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Everything posted by Quarter

  1. Maple burl might make a nice top with snakewood
  2. I think you Mom should take away all your sharp toys until you learn to do things right. The toys with small parts too, they can be a choking hazard you know.
  3. Lets see, he comes here asking advice, gets great suggestions, does not want to take the time to do it right, then is all to happy to justify stiffing someone out of a few bucks. So what happens when he comes back with more problems that he does not have the time or patience to fix?
  4. Different metal covers can be different too. The most transparent is pure nickel, many cheep ones are chromed copper
  5. Tru-Oil would work fine. When it gets to needing a little attention, wool it down and give it another quick coat.
  6. Maybe something like this? http://www.lapstick.com/specs.htm
  7. A little Tru-Oil goes a long way. One 8oz bottle would be more than enough. I've not used their filler or sealer, so I'll be of no help there. For sealing, you can use thin wash coat of shellac or go strait to the oil. For filling, I've been having some luck with wet sanding after the first coat using 400 paper and Tru-Oil. Do small areas and wipe the slurry off across the grain. After that, I apply more oil, let dry and then block it down between coats using mineral spirits as a lube. Once leveled, 2 - 3 coats of the spray is handy for getting a nice smooth gloss coat.
  8. Cool, looking forward to some more info on these.
  9. As was stated, you probably don't need to seal the ends, but with the rarity of Brazilian, I'd probably seal it just to be safe. It may not help, but it will not hurt.
  10. A copy / paste from http://www.ruddcompany.com/clearsf.php A single component, pre-catalyzed, water-white clear Vinyl lacquer. Duracat-V is low HAPs and AIM VOC compliant. The Duracat-V formulation is below the OSHA/EPA reportable quantities for formaldehyde content. Duracat-V has a clear water-white finish ideal for use over white and pastel stains. Duracat-V is tough, durable and provides exceptional water and chemical resistance. Duracat-V is easy to use, has excellent flow and leveling and gives a superior smooth, silky feel. Duracat-V can be used "self seal". Duracat-V is recommended for use on quality residential and commercial interior wood products and is available in five stock sheens. Sounds interesting
  11. I'm no expert, but this is how I'd tackle it. I'd glue the cap first, countersink the washer holes with a spade bit, then drill the tuner through holes. That way your not fighting a wandering spade bit and your centers stay constant. Spade bit over forstner because you will get a cleaner edge.
  12. The EBMM Axis is a light and fairly compact design, but looks like its more than you want to spend.
  13. I used some 9/32 aluminum tubing I picked up at the hobby store, it has a 1/4" ID. What I did was cut off some small pieces with a jewelers saw, drilled a shallow, (3/32 - 1/8 deep), 9/32 hole, and set the tubing pieces into the wood with a little CA. Once set and dry, I rough leveled the rings with a flat file, and then went on with the finish sanding. Once the sanding was done, I set the 1/4" abalone with some epoxy, let cure, then sanded level, finished / polished off with some 0000 wool.
  14. A dark bezel around the MOP would set it off nice, even silver / aluminum like I did on this lap steel I'm building. Granted, its abalone on mahogany, but you get the general idea. .
  15. Looking forward to what you think of it when you test it out.
  16. There is a little more to it than just heating it up and dunking it in water. And, as GregP pointed out, just hardening it makes it brittle, it would then need to be tempered. Google heat treating steel for the whole process, techniques, and methods.
  17. Bryan over at BG-Pups winds a 17k double slug A5 pup called the HellaBucker that kicks some serious butt. The split tones are very nice too http://www.bg-pups.com/hb.html
  18. Bryan over at BG-Pups winds a very nice P90, definitely worth checking out. http://www.bg-pups.com/
  19. Here is some Tru Oil on a mahogany maple lap steel I'm finishing up. Pic was taken about 7 - 8 coats in, close to 20 on it now, I'll be polishing it out and stringing it up tomorrow.
  20. I have one of those 10" Craftsmen. Although it has its flaws, it can be setup to do a decent job. On mine, it cut great out of the box, but eventually ended up much like you describe. It quit cutting strait and had a guide bearing freeze. After a new blade, bearing, and learning how to setup and care for it, it is back making very good cuts. I got the replacement bearings from this Ebay seller http://stores.ebay.com/VXB-Bearings-Skateboard-and-Slotcar The size is 6 x 19 mm http://cgi.ebay.com/20-Bearing-Lot-626-ZZ-...oQQcmdZViewItem
  21. Angling a pickup at the bridge, neck, or anywhere has the same overall effect on the sound as does pickup placement. The closer to the bridge, the brighter the tone. Also, as you move away from the bridge, you get more volume / output. That is one of the reasons you see neck pickups wound a little lighter than a bridge model.
  22. Here is a great wipe on burst http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...&hl=binding
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