skibum5545

As for the bridge, if you can get it off of there, do it. Replace it with a Leo Quann Baddass II (it's direct replacement). Once you do that you can tell more about the neck. As for the headstock, I would imagine some kind of glue and clamp arrangement could solve that, but I'd need to know more about the crack. Lengthwise or across? Strictly headstock or does it include the neck? etc. Maybe you could rout it out and fill it in with some wood or inlay or something. I'm not too sure on this option, though. As for the crappy action, sounds like you could use some truss rod adjustment. I think the access is at the heel on a P bass, no? Take of the neck and tighten it, see if that helps. If you feel to noobish about the adjustments, take it down to a local guitar shop and consult an expert in person. Good luck~

I don't own a fretless bass. However, I have played them on multiple occasions, and I LOVE them. For the sound, listen to the first track of the second disc of Pink Floyd's "The Wall". Good sound to it, it will tell you what you need to know. I like the feel. It's a bit harder to play, especially if it's unlined, but slides are effortless and the whole thing has a distinct buzzy growl that makes it really come alive when playing it IMHO. Hope that helps!

Forstner bit a bunch of holes, about 1/4" deep (completely cover the body or as close to it as possible), epoxy in a bunch of those googly eyes, and fill in with epoxy, and sand flat, buff, etc. Here's lookin at you, angry!

I stand corrected. I am now a better person.

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/sand.htm hope that helps...

As for going fretless: A guy I know once filed the frets off of his Warwick Dolphin bass, leaving the little bell brass fret lines. Good idea, but he got some buzz when he played notes right on the fret lines (I wouldn't have the guts to do that to a Warwick, though.) Another option, although I've never tried it, is to pull the frets and squeeze in strips of maple or some contrasting wood, maybe even strips of plastic binding or MOP, who knows? Sand it smooth with a radiused sanding block, and you're on your way. I can't see how this could go too wrong. Whatever you decide on, keep us posted!!!!

On 1, I would say that you're the one judging the look, if you're satified with them being slightly diff colors, go for it. However, there are plenty of sources for chrome hardware, I would say just stick to chrome. Or you could just go for black pup covers...

Actually, I've heard that it's stronger to have the joint farther from the headstock. If you have the thicker wood, that's a GOOD thing.

If I understand what youre saying, you are wondering whether to rout for the humbucker centered on the neck J pickup, or to rout a NEW hole, next to the J pickup's hole, nearer to the neck. Right? Well, assuming you don't want a big gaping hole, rout right smack dab over the neck J hole.

I was thinking about building a case too, and here were my plans: use 1/8" or 1/4" lauan for the top and bottom of the case. Plenty strong, and CHEAP. Use 3/4" ply for the sides. The outside I would either coat in pleather, or just paint it black (maybe with that spatter paint stuff?). As for the inside, I would buy foam, and staple it to the case, and staple some soft fabric in. I would also have one piece of 2" housing insulation foam (the stiff blue or pink stuff) upholstered as a support for the neck just past the length of the body, giving the neck support and giving clearance for the headstock. Any thoughts, anyone? PS for hardware, I'd just get some stuff from a hardware store. Ho hum.

Well, the mahogany should be good for your warm mids, so if you want good mids, it's a good choice. As for the fretboard, ebony has a harder, clearer, brighter sound to it, while rosewood has that classic rock 'n roll thump to it. It sounds like you want to go with ebony if you are interested in those highs. As for the neck woods, the ebony will give you very good sustain (according to www.alembic.com, which I trust). I don't know about purpleheart or oak, but they are both rather hard, which should give you a clear bright sound. However, the way I see it is this: yeah, there are plenty of good tonewoods out there, but almost all the major guitar and bass manufacturers use maple for their necks, so it must be a good wood for it. Good luck!

Are you going to stain black/sand back that flamed LP? The figure looks nice, but I think it could be brought out a bit more. Still, on all of them!

Any time estimate for the next release?

one thing I did is I used some scrap pine, arranged it in a rectangle of the right size, and then braced the corners with nailed in bits of hardwood. That way, it stays square in the corners. Another thing to consider is that the corners don't ACTUALLY have to meet, as long as they are close enough that they still ACT as a guide to your router base. I could post a pic, but I have to get to school. Maybe this afternoon.

oh cmon, sand it down, paint it black, new side jack, and for very little money you have a very nice guit!

Well, I'm kind of anti-relic, (Disclaimer: but it's your guitar to do with as you please) but A duct tape finish would be very cool. What would be cooler is if you hit all the hardware with steel wool to make it match the non-gloss duct tape finish. As for the pickups, hell, cover 'em in tape! I can't imagine it making too much of a difference in sound. As for the headstock... you get where I'm heading. It'd be really cool if you duct taped the neck, and then laquered over it so it was smooth again, but that's going a bit far. Whatever you do, good luck!

first, find the positions/sizes of the mounting tab thingies. Using the correct sized bit and placement, drill those holes. Second, find as accurately as possible the dimensions of the pickup. Add the diameter of your router's base plate to the dimensions. Now, using the new big dimensions, clamp to the face of your guitar guides (straight pieces of wood will do) at those dimensions, centered around your chosen position. Find a router bit that matches the corner radius of your pickup. You will use that for starters. Place the router bit in your router, and just use the frame as a guide. You will end up with an outline of your cavity, with the mounting tab holes already at full depth! Do this, advancing 1/4" depth each time, until you are at full depth. Now switch to a larger bit, still keeping the frame in place, and hog out the rest of the wood in the middle 1/4" depth at a time. When you are finished, remove the frame. Voila, a perfectly routed cavity! Or, you could use a pattern bit with a bearing, if you have access to one. Just be sure to measure carefully, and make sure your frame is square at the corners. Good luck!

woah... Dude, DON'T do black!! Maybe, if you really need to accent the figure (although I don't think you will) go with light brown or copper or something other than black!!! Given the copper color it is already, it would be great with a simple honey burst. Or a carriburst?

I always like wood to stay its natural color, and I find beech rather attractive in fact. You sure you couldn't just leave it like it is? Have you considered binding it for some variety?

I saw that one too... God I wish I had that kind of money....

An ice pick, perhaps? This could be interesting....

Freud bits are INCREDIBLE!!! Use them, they're worth the extra money.

To be honest, I like the top one best (big with defined edges). It would be really cool, also, if you were to keep the top natural except a big amber or red texas dyed area.

well, it's a guitar... I cant tell much more than that.

Have you looked into the Behringer Vampire? My bass teacher just got one, and it's pretty amazing.