How long did you let it dry for? And what did you spray it over?
I have used a lot of 2k clears, and they can be finicky in certain situations.
1, they dont dry correctly directly on wood or over some wood sealers.
2, they usually have to dry a lot longer than the can says. "dry" is not the same as CURED.
I also did that on my first from scratch build. I glued the neck in before i drilled the hole to connect the pickup cavities. Left it like that for a long time, then eventually got sick of it and steamed out the neck and drilled it. Actually came out better the second time.
Yes, you had mentioned that.
I have done many paintjobs in my building career, even when i was less experienced, and they all came out pretty nice. I Just dont get why I am having so many problems these days.
I think a lot of it has to do with the primer i am using. It doesnt seem to spray as nicely as the kind i used before.
The primered one is still sitting on the couch for now. Maybe one day it will get another chance.
Thanks guys. Sometimes it just takes something subtle like that to set it off.
Pros,
Bursts and stuff like that have always been extremely easy for me to do. It was always a little strange to me that people had a hard time with them.
Painting isnt the problem. Its always the preparation of hte primer and sealer related.
99% of that stuff is already here on the site in the MANY tutorial topics and videos.
Nobody is going to sit here and type out an exact list from begging to end for you... Its all already here. Do some research.
There are a lot of interesting reactions with dyes and stains that i have encountered.
I once was mixing minwax oil based dye with something ( I cant remember what) and it started to boil and actually ate through the cup i was mixing it in.
That is a huge Plus of it, SL. Even if i didnt want it for looks, i would still use it to break up the glue line. It is really hard to line up that many laminates.
It sees you too.
I got it sprayed with clear yesterday. Came out quite lovely.
It is very hard to take pictures of though. It reflects glare no matter what with clear on it.
That is exactly what i used to do. I would thickness the headstock piece to the desired headstock thickness. But then it wouldnt cover the volute. So i just started leaving it full thickness.
dyed black:
Yes, I see and understand that. I'm just curious as to why there's that white piece of wood there.
It is a highlight piece of flamed maple. A lot of people do that.
Yes pros, I am experimenting with a new neck profile shape
Scott, Yes, the top will be dyed black, like the one i made previously.
I am actually going to leave the end of the fretboard unbound. I like the way it looks better without it.
Thank you sir. I am quite fond of it. I think i will be doing this kind of binding more often now.
I just have to rout the control cavity, make the side dots (MOP) then glue the neck in.